SKperformance

If you are unsure tthat is ok but don;t assume anything, a stereo using alot less power than a 1500lb slab of metal trying to turn itself. Get a boost and drive to napa or a parts store to get your battery check

lol stevie I have nothing else to say I use a K&N but a cone filter not a drop in. DO i think the smaller particles of dirt make a difference compared to where it is going ,a 1400 degree oven covered with sparks carbon and slamming metal, I really don't think so. A drop in if over oiled may cause problems but that is general knowledge as much as the idiot who ate mcdonalds for 30 days got fat.......duhh lets all make a stupid movie , atleast micheal moore comes up with something worthwhile to watch. So if you want to save a few MPG or cash on replacing filters even the enviorment side go right ahead, but get someone to show you how with a proper recharge kit if you don;t PS: i did have MAF problems, becuase when i was beta testing a system on a dyno my filter FELL off and got dirty, took me a month to figure out to clean it,that was 7 years ago.

DID you boost the car?

If the fan is hydralic how will it spin with the engine off?

YEAR ?

if you overheat and it is only when not moving it has to do with you fan need to checkt the fan system

which part the vinly ,wood or carpet? use clear mono silicone

moved to the ES section tutorial section is to post how to's already completed by other memebrs to read, not to ask for a tutorial from members.

moved to the SC section tutorial section is to post how to's already completed by other memebrs to read, not to ask for a tutorial from members.

moved to the SC section tutorial section is to post how to's already completed by other memebrs to read, not to ask for a tutorial from members.

moved to the gs section the tutorial section is to post an already done how to ,to read .

removing brakes open hood open brake reservoir loosen 5 wheel bolts jack front end up under rad support subframe hump place 2 jack stands under driver/passenger front doors remove 5 wheel bolts remove 2 bolts holding caliper assembly to rotor assembly ,located behind it at the top and bottom use something to support the caliper from stressing the rubber brake lines use piston compressor tool to push piston back into caliper and the fluid will raise it level in reservoir ( it is a good time to change the brake fluid now if you have a friend to pump the brakes ) remove the 2 bolt holding the assembly brackets on the hub to remove the rotors which usually are stuck on don;t hit them with anything hard as it can damage the abs sensor easily there are 2 bolt hole on the rotors hub/hat to thread a bolt in there, i have an extra set i use other wise you can use a bolt from the rear caliper assembly ( same thread pitch) or maybe one of the front ones might fit ( can;t remember) this will press the rotor of the hub ,do each bolt a few full turns then back out and do the other, continue until you hear a loud bang like you broke something, it is just the 2 metals separating no worries. now replace the rotors and reassemble. You don not need to remove the axle bolt for the CV shaft to remove the rotors, it just looks lie the hub and rotors are one piece because of time and rust. If replacing the pads make sure you have all 4 spring clips on the ends of the pads to seat them correctly in the caliper assembly or they WILL squeal. Also use brake quiet if not using shims on the pads Use good OEM parts or bembro's rotors which are just less than 100 and can get slotted almost anywhere cheap A pro also regreases the pistons every time they do a job , a simple way is before you reinsert the piston to the caliper is to use the rod and spray WD 40 in the rubber boot between the boot and the piston to lube it. Also use anti seize on all the caliper and assembly bolts especially the slider bolts ,if possible score them slightly to remove all debris If you are going to change the fluid get 4 brake piston clamps and keep all the pistons fully inserted . This will press out all air from behind the piston which is where they like to sit and never get removed by 90% of mechanics ( this is what separates a technician from a mechanic) you need top do all 4 so you have to raise the whole vehicle with 2 jack stands. I think the bleeder valve is a 10mm use a socket not a wrench to loosen the valve.You can use the wrench to open when the pedal is pressed and close it then let the person release the brake and press again. get 2 liters atleast if you haven;t changed them in a while this way you are flushing and cleaning the system. or old fluid cake. Use dot 4 fluid for its higher brake temp ,don't waste your time with dot 5 silicone it is for race only ,has no use on the street and it needs a complete dual bleed to use the system so it gets very expensive. Silicone based fluid also absorbs water not air faster and goes bad faster which dot 2-4 attracts air instead to destroy itself by lowering the boiling temp, which is the reason race cars use silicone as they change it allot and water still compresses but boils still so there is less brake fade characteristics. Start at the closest wheel to the booster and proportioning valve ,which is the driver wheel then the rear passenger then the front pass then the rear driver side. Here is the reasoning as most will not understand why, The brake system is like all modern day system car. It has a proportion valve to adjust for front rear brake bias since you need more brakes up front than rear. Now as a safety feature the front left and rear right is one circuit and the front right and rear left is the other. WHY? Incase you loose pressure from a rupture the system allows the car to be semi controllable under braking .If it was all left or right or front or rear you hit the brakes and you would swerve hard right left or over or under steer very abruptly this X give most balanced control in an emergency ( it happens on TV all the time) I don;t think there is anything else i could add beside 92-96 have the same rotors rear are not the same as the camry which are smaller the fronts are the same as the 97 and up but not the rear 97-01 are the same for the camry/solara front and rear ( which is the older camry's smaller diameter rotor, they fit though. While you are under there check the CV joint ( mainly the outer boot ) for crack rips or grease,rotate the rotors to move the CV turn the wheel in any direction and then turning the rotor will expand the ribs so you can see inside the groove to inspect them ,use wd40 to clean the dirt for a good visual inspection.

removing brakes open hood open brake reservoir loosen 5 wheel bolts jack front end up under rad support subframe hump place 2 jack stands under driver/passenger front doors remove 5 wheel bolts remove 2 bolts holding caliper assembly to rotor assembly ,located behind it at the top and bottom use something to support the caliper from stressing the rubber brake lines use piston compressor tool to push piston back into caliper and the fluid will raise it level in reservoir ( it is a good time to change the brake fluid now if you have a friend to pump the brakes ) remove the 2 bolt holding the assembly brackets on the hub to remove the rotors which usually are stuck on don;t hit them with anything hard as it can damage the abs sensor easily there are 2 bolt hole on the rotors hub/hat to thread a bolt in there, i have an extra set i use other wise you can use a bolt from the rear caliper assembly ( same thread pitch) or maybe one of the front ones might fit ( can;t remember) this will press the rotor of the hub ,do each bolt a few full turns then back out and do the other, continue until you hear a loud bang like you broke something, it is just the 2 metals separating no worries. now replace the rotors and reassemble. You don not need to remove the axle bolt for the CV shaft to remove the rotors, it just looks lie the hub and rotors are one piece because of time and rust. If replacing the pads make sure you have all 4 spring clips on the ends of the pads to seat them correctly in the caliper assembly or they WILL squeal. Also use brake quiet if not using shims on the pads Use good OEM parts or bembro's rotors which are just less than 100 and can get slotted almost anywhere cheap A pro also regreases the pistons every time they do a job , a simple way is before you reinsert the piston to the caliper is to use the rod and spray WD 40 in the rubber boot between the boot and the piston to lube it. Also use anti seize on all the caliper and assembly bolts especially the slider bolts ,if possible score them slightly to remove all debris If you are going to change the fluid get 4 brake piston clamps and keep all the pistons fully inserted . This will press out all air from behind the piston which is where they like to sit and never get removed by 90% of mechanics ( this is what separates a technician from a mechanic) you need top do all 4 so you have to raise the whole vehicle with 2 jack stands. I think the bleeder valve is a 10mm use a socket not a wrench to loosen the valve.You can use the wrench to open when the pedal is pressed and close it then let the person release the brake and press again. get 2 liters atleast if you haven;t changed them in a while this way you are flushing and cleaning the system. or old fluid cake. Use dot 4 fluid for its higher brake temp ,don't waste your time with dot 5 silicone it is for race only ,has no use on the street and it needs a complete dual bleed to use the system so it gets very expensive. Silicone based fluid also absorbs water not air faster and goes bad faster which dot 2-4 attracts air instead to destroy itself by lowering the boiling temp, which is the reason race cars use silicone as they change it allot and water still compresses but boils still so there is less brake fade characteristics. Start at the closest wheel to the booster and proportioning valve ,which is the driver wheel then the rear passenger then the front pass then the rear driver side. Here is the reasoning as most will not understand why, The brake system is like all modern day system car. It has a proportion valve to adjust for front rear brake bias since you need more brakes up front than rear. Now as a safety feature the front left and rear right is one circuit and the front right and rear left is the other. WHY? Incase you loose pressure from a rupture the system allows the car to be semi controllable under braking .If it was all left or right or front or rear you hit the brakes and you would swerve hard right left or over or under steer very abruptly this X give most balanced control in an emergency ( it happens on TV all the time) I don;t think there is anything else i could add beside 92-96 have the same rotors rear are not the same as the camry which are smaller the fronts are the same as the 97 and up but not the rear 97-01 are the same for the camry/solara front and rear ( which is the older camry's smaller diameter rotor, they fit though. While you are under there check the CV joint ( mainly the outer boot ) for crack rips or grease,rotate the rotors to move the CV turn the wheel in any direction and then turning the rotor will expand the ribs so you can see inside the groove to inspect them ,use wd40 to clean the dirt for a good visual inspection.

no problem ,glad to help i am just very sarcastic my legs are sore from my wife always kicking me in the shin when we go out and i say something

agreed or a short bungee cod to the handle and the floor hook

oem fitted ones have the cut carpet for the changer and the bracket to atttach above with the arm. I take it you got a cd controller deck also?

only they can answer that question.

i dont think there is just one single fuse for all it may be a problem in your doors with wiring. What have you checked so far? what else doesn't work ? gas cap release ,all the windows?

common issue when the chargin system works and the batteries repeatedly fail. Once changed it will be able to charge the battery properly again ,which is why the car runs fine but doesn;t start as the alternator keeps it going as usual. Once replaced it will provide the charge back to the battery again. It is comon to have the cable corrod under the battery tray where you don;t see it and it is attached.

you could use 235 and they would still work fine on the stock 15" wheels

when you have a great car someone always has to look for something bad or substandard :chairshot:

agreed

never heard of plasma glow regualr halogen or silverstars are the only ones i will go with other than HID's also don;t use a cotton towel use an alchol swab if needed and you should always clean tehm befoer installing and make sure they dont get scratched when inserting them as is common in hard to reach places.

The first and most important question to me is what does it say in your contract?