SKperformance

I have amsoil as well and it works great. But monarch likes to preach too much. Liek a bible thumper ,goes on and on about it says it is written here ,so you must be wrong.

mc cullough's are garbage don;t waste a dime on them, i have a garge full of them as proof. learn at www.hidplanet.com

www.hidplanet.com

Don't get a short arm pipe also wrongly called a ram air intake it is garbage and only leaves you with problems Cold air or a bfi or nothing at all

Monarch what does buying my car new have to do with anything again? Especially since you didn't purchase yours new either. An ae86 or ae92 or any of your other cars had minimal emmision controls and none were OBD2 compliant. So what is the relavence again.........

Adding vents helps but once i modified the grille by opening the grille up it cools much better now as the temp gaueg atests too.

If you hold the gas pedal down while starting does it change anything?

You could get a replacment foglight but it probably won't be as strong as the original. If you like the look you have get a used factory one .

Your entiteled to your opinion monarch but my car is serviced perfectly with all oem parts, driven softly 95% of the time unlike anyother owner since i don't even bother overtaking people with this car. I have a dirty egr like almost every other ES owner as they age. Not a specific to me problem with an intake and exhaust just a common issue. You are happy with a basic preforming vehicle, i use nothing that is basic everything has a new threshold that i touch,that is just my sense of being like the "pursuit of perfection". So your idea is a nice thought but nothing more than a jab at me based on a hunch rather than some kind of reality. thanks anyway

check the a/v section for a free video bypass

That pic is definatly not for the pump on my car which was way bigger plus had 4 hoses as it fed the power steering system and the rad fan

This last comment i have to comment on seperatly as it is so wrong it makes no sense. If an egr is open it can cause pinging from the afr being too lean . The engine only gets lean when the spent gases are returned since it makes the ratio easier to ignite form higher temps. Come on now you have to agree you where wrong unlesss you copied and cut this from another site ,then atleast they where wrong and you followed them.

Get what together? What you may percieve as highschool science is relavent but with no bearing on an engine. Get an egt,actually hell i'll do one better than than, I HAVE ONE ! When my malfunctioning egr is open my EExhuast gas temps are up by 200 degrees F. Any forced induction engine knows the egr will play havok in the system and works around it. The returning air temp of exhuast gases from the egr are over 1000 degrees , air from the intake is about 30 after the venturi affect ,with the gas being atomized by the injectors causing further cooling. So where do you figure adding hot air which still does contain unburnt gases which is why it is being recycled to reduce nox. Sorry bud but you are wrong and don't make assumptions like that it is quite rude to make a stupid comment on people you don't even know.

this is too common of a question with a huge thread in the general maintance section discussing oil. I am going to lock this as it is not needed if you have a specific question after reading that then make a new thread with the direct question. switching to synthetic after years of normal oil usually always causes leaks from it cleaning buildup which opens leaks in dried up gaskets.

I was just about to jump all over that "cooling combustinon chambers". Preferable if you can make a switch to the actuator so that is can be turned off or closed when you want more power ,then it woud be the most useful to you. This gives you full power when needed under WOT but amazing gas milage when it isn;t. Mine is sticking and i can always tell by the gain of 10 horses whe it is closed and the 500-600km per tank when open. BTW i pass amazingly our emmision tests with it stuck open.

Figure out what gen you have first. www.hidplanet.com can help. Are you using a relay wiring kit or a straight plug and play one using the original bulb sockets to power each ballast.

the year?

I wish i could help more but i did mine so damn long ago and their is no damn room from the crossmember to the engine and the pump. I think i had to use one extension goign over the crossmember to get to a really hard to see bolt above the pump

Get them changed at a stereo shop but you seem handy so about 2 feet of 0-1 gauge is more than you need, 2gold ring terminals for them change the main chassis gorund under the battery tray as well ,pick your colours and it should cost about $10 for a few feet of wire and 4 gold ring terminals to attach to the original battery terminals.

Ok so what is the problem or question.

It keeps the paint on the hood from cracking and from people burning their hands on your hood as the temps of a 1mzfe are pretty hot under their.

general maintance sections i made a post to check and what the codes mean.

Blinking is usually from a bad ballast you need to switch the bulbs around to figure it out properly . It might be a bad ground also but i doubt it,also depends on which gen ballasts you have.

agreed don't forget the bolts behind the front foglight grille

no tips never needed to do it on mine. A bad battery is also somethign to check as well as the cables to the battery and starter as when they age and break down they create increased resistance causing lower power and it makes the solenoid slip back a bit and makes the voltage arc over the contacts leaving carbon trails behind which over time build up bigger and bigger multiplying themselves. This makes the problem alot worse unless fixed . Changing the wires alone is an amazing difference alone.