SKperformance

What are you looking to buy and from where?

It is a tough thing for many to understand until they can replicate the problem itself which is raw gas being pumped without it being burnt. The only carbon left if from residuale combustion entering the exhaust system which ignites the raw gas. Everyone has always kept to the mantra of blue is oil white is coolant black is raw But black is raw that a cat is trying to burn or an unfinished combustion cycle. Had a example of the problem of raw gas ad white smoke but not coolant.It smelled of pure gas out of the exhaust. Finally found a bad injector (stuck open) coupled with a faulty coil ,so it had little to no carbon to make it black.

Try figuring out why only in 06 they added a trunk button actually on the trunk.Be glad they thought of that first it is more annoying. If you added an alarm it could use a channel to give a constant to the door lock cylinder in the door to duplicate the key in it to lock and close the windows.

White smoke can also come from running way too rich. Most people associate white smoke with coolant leaks only .When an injector is stuck it will cause so much raw gas it comes out white instead of black which is burnt fuel or carbon.It is too much and the engine cannot even burn it.

Good to hear. It is not that out of tune to wait for the wheel to finish moving as it is a high power motor set. I also wait for mine to finish moving or my SRS light stays on.

When ever a grease boot is exposed it has to be replaced. The ball joint will be good but is going to wear out faster now that you are introducing dirt into the fitting.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to add a pressure gauge to the ends. This is yours right? This is mine My feeling is this type system is made for trucks or larger vehicles which use more pressure though a external cooler ,rad heater/cooler then through the filter . Since the small one does not change direction of the flowing pressures it is not adding turbulance by redirecting the flow. Same principles in driving tires like to go in one direction. The second you start turning they slow down . just like the fluid will. I guess the only way to know for sure is to add an oil pressure gauge with the filter kit and without it.to see the exact pressure drops. After checking my Lexus service manuals it only shows the load of internal pressure for applying clutches and gears which is 50 at idle and 160 at stall speed. Does not apply to the tranny lines as the little hoses held with a spring clamps would blow off with more than 50psi that is used on the cooler lines.

I think you need to contact Lexus Canada but as of right now the 3 dates they made are full. 2 have already passed and the last is in November which i am going to with my wife. So far it is a trial thing and do not have a normal setup for Lexus plant tours.The other tour is for the corolla matrix plant which only passes through the RX welding plant.

LOL do you realise you made a poll ? I'l redo your post for you as it doesn;t make sense now>?

It may have the headlight adjustment in the manual as well for doing it on the assemblies itself. I prefered to have them quickly and easily adjusted in tandem as it levels them both higher. I forgot about the other way.

My rims are on and i still have a slight vibration .That being said i also have not installed hub centric rings to balance the wheel on the studs either. Have you ever removed the wheels and sanded down the hub mating surface where the wheel sits? That small amount of build up can definatly cause quite a few vibrations that many can never find as it is over looked. With new rotors that side of the hub is nice and clean but if there is still debris on the wheel side it will cause even a balance wheel to vibrate.

AHH, i know what you are saying now. All oem toyota nuts have a special type shank for the wheels to mount lug and hub centric for centering. What you need to do is have a set for your oem ones and a new angled based nut for the new rims. You can get them anywhere. This is why i keep my stock nuts in my trunk incase i have to use my spare.

Advanti is a taiwan rim reseller they don;t design or make there own rims. So they would just have a copy made by the manufacture of there wheels that they distribute under there name. JIL is just like DOT or TUV just a governing body in Japan all asian wheels have them wether they are spec'd or not. Most OEM rims are made by enkei or OZ

Yes the code is stored and it is always good to know what may have caused the problem just in case of future problems as the codes will be lost if the battery goes dead.

search for threads on how to clean the screen as it is blocked

No modifications at all That is the price for a pair not each , so about $25 a side Not sure of a part number . It basically uses new ball pivots so you can easily replace the struts without a wrench next time.All you have to do is undo the nutsthat hold the pivots then replace them with a ball end which snaps into the new shocks with a clip. So it goes from a 20 minute install to a 3 minute one next time. As we all know there is always going to be a next time.

Have you checked any of your fluid levels?

I always see these things on eBay for 50-100 did you try www.car-parts.com ?It lists every single wrecker in North America

In order to raise mine there is a sensor on the RR control arm. It is a small arm connected with a long adjustable hook attached to a nut and screw to a sensor module. It compares the angle of the FR arm to the RR arm and compensates the headlights angle if needed. So if the rear has more weight and is lower the signal in the sensor will see the difference and lower the headlights. So by loosening the bolt and sliding it down it will make the sensor say the car is higher than it really is ,so it adjusts the headlights higher. Make sense? That is if the RX has the same adjusters as my LS .

I replaced mine with stronarms cost $50 shipped to my door.

Does yours use PS fluid or tranny fliud?

Tranny pressures will be much higher inside the trannyto apply the clutches and gears but not going through the cooler. It being full or not is not where the pressure changes but with the added chambers and direction changes it will slow the pressures as it is made to just push fluid through a straight line. That is why a choose a simple filter that doesn't deviate the original systems pressure. If pressure was that high outside a tranny there would actually be a tranny pressure gauge. No one makes one except for a temp gauge which i have already asi already tried to get one but the pressures would not show up on them.

If i am correct the filter you installed is rather large. WHile having a larger surface to catch debris is great it also requires more pressure to be able to pass the fluid inside the canister assembly and back up through it to get out again. I am not sure if you are doing any good or causing more wear from the posibilities of oil starvation .The tranny pump is very low pressure in the range of 20-50 psi compared to an engine oil pump which those filters are designed for which vary from 20-100psi easily. I know the type of filters and as much as i wanted one i would not reccomend anything that elaborate because of its design.

Have you read your owners manual? Then go to the general maintance section and read the one and only thread allowed on octance . Just like oil it is how much you know about it and everyone has an opinion.

New or used ? rebuilt ?