SKperformance

OEM as much as possible, only upgraded parts are not. Most aftermarket parts are from china or mexico where the uality control is low as is the reliability . It like redesigning the LS to be a ford tempo .

04-05 is the best bang as it is the closest to the new design so they have the biggest price drops. can be had for low 20's if you look.

The offset mentioned is a FWD one and it will fit fine even if it wasn't.

I can't remember but it was a weatherstripping adhesive.

Weight of oil is not going to cause an engine to sludge. Base grade synthetics are all very similar (castrol , mobil 1 , etc) , pick which ever one is cheapest. None will remove sludge as it is like trying to disinfect a toilet by flushing it. Auto rx , seafoam and all the others cannot remove it . They can remove some gelling which is not hardened. The problem is the coating of gelled il blocking passages caused further restrictions and can only be removed by scraping as they are a hard layer similar to acrylic. Higher end synthetics like motul have a much better base stock and ester which flow better and have specific qualities for each application. You are almost guarnteed to never have sludge from them . Lemon laws are for reoccuring issues never fixed properly.

DIY oil changes will never void a warrenty , just keep all receipts from parts bought,.

Dealer will have no clue , go to a proper detailing shop and say the finish looks funny btu don't say why and see what they say.

The only thing to add is that i resealed the gasket to the body a few years ago and it did not help but this should with the water in my trunk.

Yeah , it is the coolant , sender i was half asleep when i wrote this.

do you have the whole thing (NAV) for an 03 gs430 . I am afraid to call Gus as i never get off the phone for an hour. thanks

Sounds like low volatge , replace the battery ,terminals or alternator.

No , i want to do this to my trunk but it is still too cold to do it here.

try it again , as well as a good highway strech for 30 minutes.

totally different car

BTW ,any toyota over 100 000 you should change the sender as they will fail and change the ecu mapping with wrong information.

Ok so i like to make a good title so you already know what i am going to say. It has been mentioned before but i had to put my name behind it as well . I bought each for $50 and WOW the difference is more than substantial to each as i did not do them at the same time so i could compare them. Both are OEM Toyota parts and not aftermarket. The coolant temp sender is located under the throttle on the passenger side. Open the rad cap to release the pressure ,( don't need to mention the engine should be cool) then re cap it to keep it from leaking out. You have to remove the plenum cover and altleast push aside the intake if not pop it off . Its on an angle and it easy to find as it is copper. You 'll need a extension that is able to get into tight spots . It is easy enough to release with a bit of force , I did not replace the gasket just a touch of teflon tape and it is still not leaking a month later. Screw in the new one , and rev the engine to 2500 for 5 minutes (cap off)to make sure no air pockets are in the system and your done. So here are the results from this mod over the month, The throttle and tranny can be sloppy . Instantly the throttle and tranny shifter in sync. No more lagging and unknown gears to go into . It holds gears long enough and the throttle is very crisp . With my exhaust i can also hear a much sharper valve note which is usually only at cold start up. I always thought i had to live with the soft response , not any more and i love it. The gas is pretty much the same but i keep pressing it as it feels like a good 20 hp gain . Yeah that sounds impossible and i can't prove it . If you ever noticed you car seems to perform much better when the engine is cold and then really sloppy when at operating temperature this is for you. What i have also learned is the sensor is filled with wax that is measured by its viscosity to tell the temps. Well this wax breaks down and hardens causing the readings to be off. The tranny mount is sort of easy to change . You need a set of jacks and stands to get the car up .then another jack to hold the tranny in place so it does not stretch the other mounts and break them or strain the engine to tranny connection. The main point is being able to get the mount back in place as it just cradles the tranny up to the subframe. I read before it was real easy to do . Well it is easy but not quick. You need to loosen a ton of bolts 3 for the pan shield to bracket 4 for the bracket to subframe 4 for the bracket to mount 4 for the mount to the tranny. ( i think) Install is the reverse. (just incase ) Anyway it took an hour(not the 20 minutes i was expecting) as i was going slow , under a car and working around my modified exhaust. It tires your arms because of the angles. The old mount was separating from the molded steel bracket but not cracked only slightly showing compression lines. It was also very hard as it held tight as i loosened the bolts on it .The new one was very soft and kept swinging around as i tightened them up. So immediately I noticed a change in everything again. I could no longer feel the sine wave of ignition i have previously ( unless i look/feel for it). Ever since i could remember i could feel the ignition change up and down in a slow drone when i rev to 2000 rpm parked. It is not dynamic as i can feel it parked , it is not rpm dependant , it creates a faster or slower sine wave type vibration depending on the engine temp ,so it is not a physical weight imbalance , the colder the faster or shorted waves it has. Only thing left is ignition timing as a result of o2 sensors usually after the cats since the ecu creates a sine wave using fuel to tell if they are working or not. I already replaced the 2 after the cat , so i am stumped for now. other than changing the pre cat ones. (that is another issue altogether i am tracing) . No vibrations at all now , also the highway ride is much smoother , everything is smoother , i love this piece of rubber. I have engine mounts but am doing things in stages to gauge their actual results not a combined result. I have a list of about $1000 worth of parts no labor for all the things i am maintaining on my car this year. What do you expect for 350 000km. Do it and you'll feel like you bought a brand new car.

What are you going to be doing with the car, real low , adustable heights , adjustable stiffness. long drives, cost ,corner performance ?

Poorly done anything will result in poor results. Asking a dairy farmer which chicken makes the best eggs is like asking a sears rep about modifications. You can go up from 16 to 17 and will barely notice anything. A properly done ratio where the outside diameter of the tires are matched so the same speedometer readings and transmission ratios are kept. From a +1 sizing upgrade the only differences is more road noise from bumps and road cracks. Slightly better cornering ability due to a smaller sidewall, and a slight increse in tire costs. Also the unsprung weight may change depending on the weight of the actuall wheel tire combo. This can cause the car to feel more bumps on the road and not follow it as well. Stay away from anythign chrome as it adds 10 pounds which is a ton in unsprung weight as it does not allow the suspension to react quickly to changes. Again with a +1 16 to 17 the difference is so minimal yu'll probably never be able to tell. Go to tire rack for some honest answers and results.

I have done this too my doors but here in Canada it is a bit chilly still . When it gets warmer i will try and fill it up . I also need to find a smaler than 1/4 piping as it fills it perfectly making it hard to compress. You may need to make a few cuts at the corners for feeding the piping. Also push the extension hose into the seal at a few points and saturate the seal with silicone spra to make it feed freely . I resealed the gasket a few years ago and it worked shortly and not well. Now if i could find some new trunk struts i would really be happy.

Still not too sure of the issue but a light thud might be from the motor mounts.

I must say i do like them, it might be the pics makign them look slightly not straight. You could use a thin chrome pin stripe to finish ripping off the S class completly but either way it finishes them nicely.

Didn't even know it was back , will have to look for it.

It has to be mounted on a firm stable position to be 15% accurate anything less and it is off. Also the roads angle and curve changes the variables. Intersteing for base lineing results after changes but not in comparision to other cars unless using the same road and device. The older 1uz never made anwhere lose to 280 at the crank never mind the wheels

Don't compare this engine in court to the old one it will cause you to loose right away as the engine is a completly different design. I would contact the previous owners for any records of anything. Sludge truly comes from neglect as it was with the previous 1mz-fe engine . Toyota was nice to step up and replace them or fix it because the tolerance of that engine was much smaller for oil life. It basically had a higher internal temperature due to emissions which cause the engines to run hotter thus reducing the oils life. It still took 10 000k between oil changes for it to sludge though. goodluck ,hopefully they might help just don't compare the old one to it.

It is a basic air bubble in the heater core. You have to fill the coolant level up , with the heater on max heat and rev to 2500 rpm , then recap the coolant res. It solved my issue after draining it.