steviej

for once I have to agree with monarch. It sounds like air trapped in the system. There have been several post on different websites of similar characteristics. The ES cooling system does have an involved "procedure" to refill a totally empty system. The gurgling I think is the key. A simple pressure test on the system will tell you if there are any leaks. Back pressure on each cylinder will tell you if the head gasket is leaking into a cylinder. as for the todd332's comment about never understanding the bad radiator cap: the cap can go bad in that the rubber ring underneath does not make a good seal. The cap will not be able to maintain the pressure needed in the system to elevate the boiling point of the water/antifreeze liquid higher than the normal operating temperature of the engine. The coolant only elevates the boiling point a few degrees. The radiator cap creates a pressurized environment that creates a higher elevation of the boiling point than just the coolant. steviej

here is a link to pictures taken at the recent NE summer meet at Floyd Bennet Field in Brooklyn NY. Enjoy. There are some really incredible rides there. steviej FBF Meet Pictures

Doug, I have copied your link to a new thread in the Club Meetings Forum seciton too. This way people that don't cruise the ES Forum will have access to the incredible pictures of all those beautiful rides. I am so mad that i wasn't there, but if I don't work, then I don't have the Lex. Next time I'm there. Steve, ever so sorry about you loss. As an animal lover, I know the pain of the decision and the loss. You and your fiance are in my thoughts. :( steviej

dude, you mean 600 rpm, right? 6000 rpm is kissin' the redline. as for the -20004 oil filters. Throw them up on ebay and you could fetch $20+ each for them. People are fanatical about that filter. I am glad all worked out for you. Enjoy the ride and this site to your fullest. steviej

I believe the 92-93 was the 3VZ-FE. Your money will be better spent on a 94 or newer ES. The 92/93 have frequent problems with the cooling system (esp. the radiator and ps pump driver radiator fan). However, if you are looking for a manual shift, then it has to be a 92/93 as this was the only time it was offered. steviej

oh Mike, but you can. I am a coffee addict. Especially DD ice coffee. Try one of those Camelbacks. It is an expandable bladder that most bicyclers use to carry water on there back. Hold about 1 L or so. Fill it with ice coffee and away you go. Keep in mind though, the frequency of pit stops increases proportionately too. steviej

new weather stripping around the door and door opening is a possibility. steviej

When it is less than $25 for a six pack, then I get a couple boxes. Occasionally Wal Mart has has the 4qt jugs for $18. That's ok, but I hate trying to pour 1/4 of the next jug. The Cosco price is decent. I went to get some in a local autoparts store and the guy said $37.74 when I placed a case of M1 on the counter. I put it back and laughed. He said what's so funny........I said, "your price". steviej

I have used one of those Maxell CD lens cleaner discs. worked well. steviej

tread design is similar to that of the Dunny A2. SW, are they quieter than the previous bridgies, the same or noisier? steviej

Mequiar's Mirror Glaze. It's a liquid 2 step polish procedure for plastic. steviej

Regarding monarch's copied post of the Camry owner. It is strictly anecdotal, like all posts on these forums. For every post of someone that states switching to synthetic is bad, there are posts saying switching to synthetic is good. I must say I see more of the good stories than I do the bad ones. In Bill's case, I can't make any judgement as he leaves out too many details. For example his oil change interval, whether or not he uses/used any oil additives, his driving habits, whether or not he always changed filters, etc. For there to be a sudden leak in seals with a change to synthetic, there must have been something wrong with the seals before the synthetic got there. Like maybe alot of crud build up that was plugging gaps, cracks and already damaged areas of the seals. I can't say, cause did not see the engine in question. I can only ponder and offer alternative suggestions. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks, it will sometimes uncover problem areas in seals hidden by conventional oils. The problem is not in the oil, it is in the seal. steviej

mbpgawest: How does one speak about qualitly of filters if you don't stip down the engine and look at cylinder walls with a scanning photo-electronmicrograph? What I mean to say is it is hard to judge quality other than by the seat of my pants. All three fitlers seem solidly built. All have ample filtering material and all have anti-drainback valves. All three have done their job when asked. I have used mobil 1 filters on my previous car and never had an oil issue of any kind. Car was sold at 150k miles and the valve rockers were clean as a whistle for what it is worth. I personally like the K&N filter because of the molded nut on the shell. The location of the filter on the ES allows for easy singing of your forearm on the exhaust manifold when trying to manuever a filter wrench in there. The K&N filter is easily loosened and tightened with a socket wrench and a 1" deep socket. Toyota recently switched manufacturers of there oil filters to a site in Thailand. Previously it was made in Japan. To date, I have not heard any negative comments about them. There are several sites that have cut apart oil filters and examined the material, constrution and design. Results are surprising. I can post them for you if you would like. But on the two I read, Mobil 1, K&N and Toyota OEM were highly rated. yucaton_tom: I mention the high mileage formula simply because these formulations today have additives to help rejuventate the internal seals and hopefully extend there life. I am not saying they will bring a dry cracked seal back to the supple pliable texture it once had. The owners manual (at least my 02) calls for either 5w-30 or 10w-30. This is all location temperature dependent. If you are in FL or So. Cal or TX and the temps rarely get below 30°, then 10w-30 will be fine. 10w-30 is also engineered for high mileage cars as the 5w-30 is not. I'm guessing these seal additives are not in the 5w-30. The choice between synthetic or dino is totally up to you. You will notice that monarch (aka: saber on ClubLexus) is the anti-synthetic. He is Genuine Toyota Motor Oil advocate. You can read about it on CL or even here in a thread entitled "Do You Use Synthetic Oil?" I, on the other hand, prefer the synthetic, mostly because I live in New England and the synthetic offers better lubrication during extreme cold start up conditions. Last winter is was less than 10° each morning for almost 3 weeks in a row. I have also noted an slight increase in my gas mileage with the use of synthetic oil in my last car as well as in my Lexus. This is totally user dependent. Use of synthetic also extends MY change interval from 3000 mile with dino to 5000 miles with synthetic. The synthetic oil change interval that I feel comfortable with IS within Toyota recommendations. I do not feel comfortable with the conventional oil change interval of 5000 miles that Toyota recommends. But that is my feeling, not Toyota's If you switch to synthetic and have a problem, then switch back to dino. I have read about some people that have done that. Similarly, you may have an experience similar to Blake in that absolutely nothing bad will happen when you switch. The bottom line for both of you is: 1. Adopt a schedule that you are comfortable with and stick with it. 2. Use a grade of oil that is within manufacturers specs. 3. Use an oil that you are comfortable with. 4. Use an oil that you can afford. I stock up on synthetic when it is on sale. 5. Use a quality filter and change it with each oil change. steviej

unfortuneately, something has come up at the medical center that needs my attention on Sunday. I will not be attending this meet either, but I will be there in spirit. sorry. :( steviej

actually it is closer to $158 plus shipping (rotors are heavy). Lexus parts online that's not cheap. If the rotors have never been replaced in 10 years, then it is time they are changed out. Alan's suggestion is extremely valid, though. steviej

mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic as stated in a reply to your same post in a different thread. I am going to close this thread since the responce prior to yours was over a year ago and this will only start a duplicate discussion. steviej

your car is 11 years old so I'm guessing the mileage is over 75k. I suggest the Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic. (High mileage forumla--green cap). Change it and the filter (use a good quality filter like Mobil 1 or K&N) every 5k miles and you should be fine. steviej PS. Highly unlikely but should it start to leak, drain it out and go right back to dino. No problems

go to amazon.com, search on Lexus ES and order the Hayes manual for under $20. They should have a good step by step with pictures. It would be too long to post here, but it is doable in the driveway if you are handy with a wrench and can navigate under the car. steviej

you didn't miss anything. Out of warranty work at the dealership: Lexu$ $ervice with a $mile. :o steviej

I don't base my decisions on what fleet vehicles do. I don't think that I really should, my driving doesn't compare to the constant on/off of those vehicles. I know what works for me and your suggestions DO NOT. I don't understand your extreme negativity to synthetic fluids so I must ask. Why are you such an opponent of synthetics and any other motor oil but Genuine Toyota? Answer this without links to your sites or any other techinical information. It is a simple personal question. You constantly slam other oils and other members here and on CL for even the thought of using a synthetic. Did Mobil1 fire you from a past job? Do you stand to profit from the use of Toyota? my bottom line....I switched to synthetic and picked up on average 1-2 mpg. Monarch, that is all the proof I need for me. What you do or believe is your business. For all those interested in further reading on the exact same subject, here is a link to a heated discussion. Enjoy, but I warn, it is long. Highly worthwhile, though. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...15&pagenumber=1 steviej

no saber (sorry....monarch), they don't state gas mileage increases. My gas tank, my wallet, and my experience do with my car. This has also been experienced by others. As for extending oil changes, I didn't. Read the post. I stated 5k miles with synthetic. That IS the oil change interval that Toyota states. I actually shorten thier interval with dino because I don't trust dino lasting that longer. mbpgawest: the bottom line is that this is a decision you need to make for yourself and determine you level of comfort with whatever oil you choose to run in your vehicle. There are previous and currently ongoing heated debates on this very subject. There is no real wrong oil, as long as it meets the API/SAE criteria set for you vehicle. Just stay within your comfortable change interval and always change the filter. There ARE advantages to synthetic and there are advantages to dino. You have to decide for yourself what is more beneficial based on your driving habits and location. steviej

1. what you spend extra on the bottle of synthetic will more than be recouped in the increase in mpg. Average increase is about 1-2 mpg so you will save at the pump. 2. you can increase you interval to 5k miles with synthetic from 3k miles with dino. If you drive 15k miles in one year you will have changed your oil 3 times with synthetic and 5 times with dino. Let's do the math: Assuming you do the oil changes yourself. 6 qts synthetic x 3 = 18 qts, @ $4 ea = total of $72 6 qts dino oil x 5 = 30 qts, @ $2 ea = total of $60 so the savings with dino oil in a years time is not that much, $12, which will be made up in item 1. you will also be using less oil, a small part in the environmental conservation. (I had to throw that one in). steviej

I was starting to wonder where cat woman went. Welcome back girlfriend!!!!!!!!! you have been missed. :D steviej

I am moving this to the LS section, you may get additional help here. steviej

hey neighbor!! B) in a pinch, if you don't have coolant, you can add distilled water to bring the level in the overflow jug up to a level you are comfortable with. It will only be about a soda can full. steviej