TurboGS300

What year is your GS?

NOT TRUE!!! <_< You should know better to believe some chump "at work". First off if it is a real chip for the ECU, by opening up the ECU your warranty is compromised. However it's probably one those 30hp gold resistor in a box mods that you see on EBay all the time for chumps! If it is you need to tell your supposed friend to get a clue about how cars work before he starts reccomending crap that only a sucker would put on his car.

irridium is the best you can get <_<

Yes, of course it's an advertising strategy <_<

Hi Wizzzup!! Welcome to LOC we have much knowledge here. You will find much knowledge by SEARCHING :cries: Please use the search feature Please search!! :)

A incorrectly engineered exhaust could cause decreased performance. Also leaks and or a clogged cat could hurt as well. <_<

Yes B) ← powder coat typically cures at approx. 350 degrees... would that engine cover plastic survive in a 350 degree oven? Even then, plastic flexes and warps. Powder coat doesn't like to flex or warp. You'll start seeing cracks and chipping over a short period of time. What you need is flex paint. DuPont has some good ones, same type used for bumper paint. But expensive, as you probably guessed. ← You obviously need to learn more about powder coating! When coating plastics an ifra red curing agent is used

Good job on finding the leak! Can you use an RTV sealant to stop the leak? <_<

Dan, Check the tranny mounts and engine mounts. They probably are shot or compressed and could cause the noises you described. <_<

trans ecu <_<

^^^^^^ Uhmmm differential= rear wheel drive

Try checking and or changing the fluid and then resetting the tranny ECU. May help a little. <_<

If it has a limited slip, like most cars, that's completely normal. <_<

Alot depends on your driving habits. <_< There is no magical # that once exceeded the tranny breaks. The TT Auto gearbox (A340E) is a very strong auto, but it will break if you are running over 300rwkw. This auto is unique to the 2JZ-GTE engine, despite many other Toyota autos also being labelled as A340E autos. The 300rwkw limit is well below the limit of the Getrag 6 spd gearbox (around 500rwkw), so if you are making serious power, make sure you are using the Getrag box. The W58 5 speed that comes with the non-turbo 2JZ-GE engine can only take around 260rwkw before it will break and the 2JZ-GE auto can only safely handle around 200rwkw. You can make the TT auto box survive longer if you manually change gears when you race it, as this puts most of the torque loading during gear changes through a stronger part of the auto. Also you can get the solonoids upgraded so that it changes gear faster, as this reduces the loading on the auto during gear changes. This will allow for up to 350 rwkw. For it to survive beyond that, you will need very expensive strengthening of internal parts that is offered by several USA Auto transmission companies. When suitably strengthened (at much cost) the auto gearbox can then handle as much power as the Getrag does.

Jacob, It's interference and noninterference. Noninterference means if the timing belt breaks then the valves won't hit the pistion. Obviously interference is the opposite <_<

Yes you can have it bench tested, The amp is on the passenger side behind the glovebox. If you need one I have one . ← You'll need to find someone who specializes in repairing OEM amps. It won't be easy without a wiring diagram or an extra headunit or plugs. I'd find someone you trust with the same setup and let them test it out for you or swap with them temporarily. <_<

If there's a service bulletin and guy posted it, then that's the problem <_< Iwould contact lexus and politely make them help you in some way, since there's a service bulletin on it.

Guy, I think you got the right idea. It would make sense that the mystery clips go on the bottom of the pads vs the top to eliminate the clunking when changing direction. <_<

60 thou for OEM plugs and about 100 thou for iridiums. <_< Of course, checking them is the best way to tell.

Looks good! <_<

I hope you're not installing one of those "15hp" resistor in a pretty box mods to your car

You should be able to physically see the the servo or the airmix door move when you switch to heat. I believe the temp sensor doesn't allow the heater to kick on or up until it's hot so that only hot air comes out. You could pull it out and verify coolant is in the heater core and the see if you get a measure ment across it or place it in a pan of hot water and test it. <_<

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Could be the outputs in the amp drying out <_< Or something intermittent inside the amp. <_<

It's a door driven by a servo that switches airflow between the ac or heater. It could also be the water temp sensor in the heater core. You can start by removing the glove box door and seeing what you can access, then removing more till you can verify it's working or not. <_<