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billydpowell

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Everything posted by billydpowell

  1. My 95 hangs down too, so I put it behind the RVM, out of the way and it looks much better than a hole...
  2. No, there are not connectors in your car for both standard and Nak systems. I don't know about the 95-97 standard and Nak, but it was explained to me by an audio shop tech that the architecture of the two systems on the 98-00 is very different. Some functions that are controlled by the amp on the standard system are in the head unit of the Nak system and vice versa -- don't know if that is really true but that's what I was told. thanks, thats good enugh for me..
  3. Thanks, these are not wired with both style plugs on the harness', correct? bp
  4. This is a loaded question, I have a 1995 LS400 with a nakamichi unit and a 1997 LS400 with a pioneer, and I want to swap them out? My main question is: is the wiring/plugins all the same? and would the CD players have to be changed? I dont mind swaping the speakers, radios, and Amp's (if I know where they are) . Any WARNINGS or Help out there? or just forget it... too involved.
  5. PM me with your address so I can "borrow" one if I'm ever in your area. :whistles: It worked, and I fell for it... I knew I should not have shared it with this bunch, but when your 75 your sort of slow.... but I drive Lexus'
  6. you are confused, read it again, I said we have different keys, just the remotes work both cars, plus the cars are always garaged when not in use, and they are not locked in the garage. is that better? bp
  7. I thought that too. I know, as she backs out of the driveway she hits the FOB thus locking both cars. When she opens her door upon arriving at her destination, the alarm goes off.:cries: only thing wrong with those comments, is they are both garaged with the door down when not in use, and are not locked in the garage. Cheers, bp
  8. Hi, you may not believe what I done, but I done it. I took one of my 97 remotes, and set up the 95 to receive the 97 remote signal, by doing the following: 1. sitting in driver seat, with driver's door OPEN, press lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR to lock all doors, then manually unlock driver door only. 2. Insert YOUR key in ignition, DO NOT TURN, then remove key. 3. Using the same lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock-unlock in 5 cycles 4. Shut door. 5. Open door. 6. Using the same lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, again slowly press lock-unlock in 5 cycles 7. With the door open insert your key into the ignition, turn to 'on' position (DON'T START), wait 5 seconds. Turn off and remove key. 8. Locks should cycle once (Car will lock and then unlock once by herself). If they don't cycle or they cycle more than once, do steps 1-7 over. 9. Now using the remote, push lock button, hold for one second, then release the button. The locks should cycle once. If not, start over and go slower. 10. Close the door. 11. Open the door. 12. Press the lock button on the remote. The locks should do a lock-unlock cycle. 13. Close the door 14. Press the lock button on the remote, the doors should lock. 15. Press unlock button and the doors should unlock. Now my remotes will work on either car. I only have to have one with me and my wife can have the other, and it locks/unlocks/opens trunk. How cool is that?? we have different keys for our cars but only one remote.. It worked for me.. bp
  9. Well I sold my 94 with 255K and bought a 95 with 161k to go with my 97 with 230K. these cars are just great.
  10. WOW Jim, those chrome wheels sure look nice on your 2000. Very nice looking autp.. you live in BC? We went to Victoria and stayed at the Empress.. beautiful and CLEAN up there. You ever been to Texas? cheers, bp
  11. Hi, I will give you 400. for the package, all five of them, with accessories, shipped to me, insured, at Carrollton, TX. 75007 you can reach me at 972 395 0678. or email billydpowell@verizon.net I withdraw my offer, I think my wheels look pretty good.... what do you think?
  12. Hi, I will give you 400. for the package, all five of them, with accessories, shipped to me, insured, at Carrollton, TX. 75007 you can reach me at 972 395 0678. or email billydpowell@verizon.net
  13. WELCOME...... Hay guys, I found some cheap transporation:
  14. This info is for a 1997 LS400, probably the same as yours, Hi, replace both strut rods, The strut rod part numbers are 48670-40011(LH) and 48660-40021(RH). They come complete with bushings and 2 pressed-in bolts. they run about 95 each. http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/Fj9WH6CM this will show you how. and that lowspeed clunk will be gone. cheers.. Worked for me....
  15. Hi, sorry for your loss, I just bought a 2nd gen LS, and my 1st gen 94 is for sale, if you can stand white, after the black knight.
  16. OK, I just bought a 1995 LS400, 161K miles for 3700. Feels just like my 97LS. BUT the telescoping colunm is not moving, the tilt works fine. It only moves a fraction when you try to move it toward you and the motor sound stops also. ANY HELPS?????
  17. Hi, can any of you tell me about the 1995-6 tilt problems, or a recall? I know about the "FIX" , but my old 96 had this tilt problem, but the motor didnt turn?? that is what I am refering to.. thanks. bp
  18. Wow! That's a big price for a 98 LS like that at an auto auction. 01 LS430 with lower miles and in decent shape have brought less $10,000 at auction. I wonder if there were non-dealer bidders who wanted it for their personal use. Was this a real wholesale auto auction for the car dealer trade? A $5500 price doesn't seem to leave room for "reconditioning", which this car obviously needs, or allow the kind of profit the used car dealers I know would be interested in. you have to be a licensed dealer to get in, it was ADESA auto auction. you have to have a Auction Access card to get in. of coarse that dosent mean no one cheats, I figured it would be in the 4's somewhere. oh well Cheers.
  19. Yes, occasionally -- I eat a lot of beans. ;) No, never had any rear end noise on my similar 00 LS400 except for an unruly rear seat passenger. Can't check it out before buying? Ouch! How do you know if everything is working? The common steering tilt/telescope problem with on the 98-00 LS (fixed at the factory midway through the 2000 model year) alone can cost thousands to fix if it wasn't fixed under the TSIB. Does the car have HID headlights? Many 1998s do not. Are the radio and HVAC LCDs working and all the backlights for the buttons. Can't see much from the photos but I'm guessing that it is minimally equipped since it doesn't have the wood wheel and shifter -- the all leather wheel is more comfortable anyway IMO. Here's a link to the 98 LS specs in case you don't have them: http://www.lexus.com/contact/pdf/1998/1998LSspecs.pdf If you are really interested, can you have a Lexus dealer give you the car's history to see if any of the TSIBs have been applied. Sounds like a roll of the dice. It would be interesting to know how much this car actually sells for at the auction. I don't have much of an idea but I'd guess $3000 tops. It sold for 5500, my faith ran out at 5000. yes, everything worked inside, I could drive it around the lot, but thats all. it had no timing belt sticker, but it had been steamed... any way, I'm looking. thanks.. bp
  20. I have a 98 LS spotted at the auto auction, it has 170K miles on it and it has "rear end noise" could be a wheel bearing or in the differential? cant check it out, just bid or not. anyone had any "rear end noise"
  21. Not sure this posting technique is going to get you the results you're looking for. :whistles: There are a lot of threads on this forum for people to read. If it's of interest, it'll be read, if not then it won't. Just because you post something doesn't mean everyone is going to flock to it because it's you. You're new here. Establish some cred, then you might get some interest. Some posts never get a response. I am thinking about upgrading my 94ls to a 98ls and I need your opinion too.
  22. I used: aandrautoparts@aol.com <aandrautoparts@aol.com> talked to Mike. I followed the tutorials here, on removing the door panel and replacing the handle. yes it was easy, but BE CAREFUL, when you remove the relay rod, (I broke mine) dont prize on it, just work it loose. I broke the rod at the latch (it is made on to it) $400. from dealer, but I got a used one for $30, and it is a little harder to put in (without instructions) . I have the old one and a couple of the "other" rods, if anyone needs them. also "repaired" (made it workable) door handle, looked like sin, but worked, with a piece of metal I bonded to the underside of the handle. have been tempted to do the new one this way for strength. any way, good luck on yours. sorry about my camera focus.... bp
  23. Some others I have had & a few I wished I had. I guess I dont know how to load photos correctly, any help?? 40_stude.bmp
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