BlackSC4

sure, it's on the driver's side right under the car near the rear wheel.

so far so good, are you making the air scoop?

has anyone tried that quick fix addtive where you pour it in the resevoir and it supposedly flows through your cooling system and clogging the leaks? it looks very temporary to me, but worst, i think it might even clog the coolant passages. has anyone used this product? if peopel have and it provens good then i may lean towards that since im leaking coolant behind the engine, which is probably not fun looking for.

that piece of metal behind the intake manifold needs to come off. there's hidden nuts right behind it, feel for it, theyr 12mm. coolant should be dropping. i had to break the wiring harness off, not easy, but you'll need all the working space you can get. after installing the new starter, buy big radiator hoses, cut it down the middle and use that as your new wiring harness before you burn some wires. make sure you use tape to secure the radiator hose. you should be fine from here.

i've been trying to look for soem differential gears for my 400 for a long time. does anyone know of a good one and where i can get it? i'm also looking for supra tt seats. would anyone know if they are automatic or manual adjust seats? if auto, can it plug right into the sc's wiring easily? and how much should i expect for just two front seat from toyota?

thank you 99ls and JPI for the help, but i finally got it. i bought the car 2 months ago and well, i noticed today while refueling that the cap is very new. i had a suspicion that it's the wrong cap. it was non-vented. so i filled up 3 gallons in my tank and drove it without the cap on, and no more jerky motion at 40-60 mph. so i went to toyota and bought the right cap for it. good as new. the weird thing is, i didnt notice this when test driving the car, only lately.

excuse me, i meant inexpensive when i said cheap. valvoline is 1.39 a quart compared to toyota which is 3.99 a quart. i am also aware that valvoline's history goes way back. is there anywhere else i can get the codes? if i have to go to the dealership, i shall. but roughly, how much will it be?

i actaulyl found time to go to autozone, but unfortunately they say they dont do diagnostic tests. this is for 2 different autozones.

perfect, i'll do this tomorrow, friday. i'll update you 99, thanks. and i'm not sure if this is related, but if set in P or N my RPM would drop from 1900-1100 if i give it gas slowly and steadily. and the hard jerks while driving occur exacltly at 1900, so it's very suspicious. i checked all my vacuum lines, so i'm thinking it might be something that controls my vacuum line that is out.

hm...O2 sensor...you think? i should take it to autozone. would the readings come up if it is the O2 sensor?

yeah, i've disconnnected the battery, but not for 5 minutes, maybe 2. i can try again.

hello lexus owners, i've posted this topic concurrently with other tranny problem posts, but i didn't get a reply that could help me, so i decided to give it it's own special post. well, recently, my car jerks hard as hell shifting from 1st to 2nd gear when i drive slowly only. and when i drive around 40-50 mph and try to hold a constant speed, it would downshift and upshift super duper hard and numerously. soooo, i thought it was the valvoline's tranny fluid i added in, and well, i drained it quite a few times to dilute the cheap valvoline atf out with toyota type IV. it helped, a bit. it's noticably better, but not at all gone. so i'm thinking it must be the torque converter, probably burned it out somehow with the cheap atf and it made permanent damage. what you guys think? if it is (and i hope it is) the torque converter, i have all the excuses in the world to go with the high performance dragon torque converter that i've been wanting, but i want to make sure that's the problem first. <_<

hm...nice numbers, i'm getting 12mpg...some thing is wrong...all tuned up too...oh well, gotta live with it

go to one of those junkyard connection websites where you type in what you want, and they have a whole catalog of which branch has what, and they'll email you about it. then paint it your car's color, even better! good luck.

are you trying to sell the parts? list price if you are.

It happened to him after the tune-up. funny thing is, that's exactly what's happenning to me now. about 45mph it seems like the tranny is pulling back and pushing the gear in hard. this was also after i performed a complete tune up for my car as well. but i may have an idea as to why this is happening in my particular case...

i agree, some says new filters give you better mileage, and i heard some say that a new filter lets more air in, so more fuel comes in to match the ratio of air to fuel. and K&N filters does give you a drop in MPG.

the battery is probably bad. 4 years is about the time to get yourself a new one. you can buy a voltmeter at a car shop for less than 10 bucks, and when it doesnt start up, check the battery's voltage. it shoudl be around 12 volts and no less than 11.

if anyone liek sportcoupe that lives in san fran. i wouldnt mind showing what the bar looks like in person. just let me know.

i'm just looking for trouble although i have never changed my drain plug 'gasket' i never had it leak on me, but dont listen to me, you may not be as lucky.

injectors arent easy to play with, theyr right below your fuel rail. you can gain access to it by taking off the plenum (top part of intake manifold). i dont think it's the injectors, what viscosity engine oil are you using? try 0-30. and your starter is probably old and weak, i had the same problem. if you are having your starter changed, tell whoever is messing with it to hook up a new power cable for you, the old one may have oxidized and the conductivity is weaker.

it could be your igniter. one of them controls cylinder 1-4 and the other controls 5-8.

The drain plug gasket should be replaced whenever the drain plug is removed i.e. when the pan is drained ... you mean washers?

they upped the price? that weird, it's not worth 79, it's hollow... but it looks a lot better on the car, it's almsot a perfect fit. i dont notice any different in cornering, but that's probably just me.

well i wouldnt be surprised if the IS turns better than the sc's. the IS are high up (higher center of gravity). it's like trying to spin a penny when it's flat-not as good as spinning it on its side. ex. bmw's are known for their handling, and they're pretty high up like the IS.