BlackSC4

hey yeah, i think i will drain it, but it's a little more work for the pan drain, maybe i'll just numerously drain it through the drain bolt and just add more.

i clean my throttle body with carbeurator cleaner, after you take off the intake manifold of course. my gas mileage sucks too, i'm getting about 200mi a tank, and every fluid has been changed, ignition (plugs, wires, igniters) been changed, throttle body cleaned, basically the whole works. just wondering if anyone has another idea.

hey, i have a similiar problem. i changed the atf with valvoline's and cleaned out the screen, and my car shifted very hard. so i did the atf flush again with toyota's atf, and it got better, but not the same as before. i guess i stil have valvoline in there. a lesson well learned, and i thought i would share with you guys.

93lsowner, i agree that the camry's have very loose gas/brake. i have a 99 v6 camry, and its super sensitive and loose. i dont think you can get that on the ls4. i tried to adjust the tightness of my sc400's throttle, but it can only go so far. with luxury cars, i dont think the makers want that sensitive and loose feel, they want the smoothness more. if you come up with something, post it, i'll be interested.

gas prices are crazy, about $2.50 for premium in SFbay. in the LS forum, they seem to think that the power ECT saves gas, if i am correct. but jzz, if your tranny shifts later, doesnt that mean a higher stall speed? and doesnt that translate to performance difference?

i would rate my sc's handling a 9.5/10 considering it's lengthy body. i can make u-turns so much better in my sc than my rsx or my friend's mr2, which are tiny cars. i have an sc400, some suspension parts are differed in the sc300.

which one do you dislike? the 92-96 are the drag spoilers which i love and have the other one is okay....but i'd pick the drag one of the other any day.

fuel pump, or ignition module....ignition module is expensive and the sc4 has two of them, i'd check the fuel pump first no throttle has nothing to do with stalling....not to my knowledge at least.

probably better heat shielding, if anything.

yeah maintenance free until it goes out. you should change it every 15kmi., it cleans your fuel; hence the name. not very difficult, just very messy and raises the chance of you bathing in flames by a lot.

i dont have a digicam. sorry, or else i woulda.

it fits, but do they normally come adjustable? i think its a universal size.

the strut bar came in. it's the one from the picture, havent put it in yet.

you're right awj, it's probably the timing since the valves are opening at the wrong times. i did use a wrench to turn the crankshaft pulley bolt when the starter was just clicking just to get the motor going, thought it froze over. and when i changed the belt, i reused the tensioner. i havent checked the timing yet, but i have a great suspicion that that's my problem.

srk, that's not what i meant. the oil additive does not need for you to change oil to add it in.

you add z max to a half filled tank of gasoline and you also add additives to your engine oil, no need for oil change either. techron shoudl be used no more often than every 3000 miles, it's like a bleach for your injectors.

coximport.com <--free shpping over 100 bucks and their prices are pretty good.

well, why would a few of them work and a few wont? if the starter wasn't in correctly, i would expect it to not spin the motor at all.

okay, i well stayed up all night til 6 am in the morning this morning and i finally fixed the starter problem. it was a blown out solenoid, the one not attached to the starter. i couldnt find where that was located, so i bypassed the solenoid and hooked the starter straight to my powercable, like how those american carrs use to be. but now i have a worst problem. a very very bad one that makes no sense to me. the car turns over now but it wont start! so i pulled the covers back out and did another compression test. this is my compression results: 2 of the cylinders yielded 150psi, which is great 1cylinder yielded 180 psi, which is even better 3cylinders yielded no pressure 1cylinder pushed the compression tester to 10psi then back down. 1cylinder actually sucked air in!! i am gettin fuel and spark and i made sure all the intake chambers were clean, but could something very small fell in and f***ed sh*t up? thanks for any help.

okay, i well stayed up all night til 6 am in the morning this morning and i finally fixed the starter problem. it was a blown out solenoid, the one not attached to the starter. i couldnt find where that was located, so i bypassed the solenoid and hooked the starter straight to my powercable, like how those american carrs use to be. but now i have a worst problem. a very very bad one that makes no sense to me. the car turns over now but it wont start! so i pulled the covers back out and did another compression test. this is my compression results: 2 of the cylinders yielded 150psi, which is great 1cylinder yielded 180 psi, which is even better 3cylinders yielded no pressure 1cylinder pushed the compression tester to 10psi then back down. 1cylinder actually sucked air in!! so now i'm hoping that this sounds familiar to at least a few people. i'll post this in the sc forum too, just in case someone there knows a thing or two about compressions. thanks any thoughts. i am gettin fuel and spark.

actually, they just updated it today and i didn't check til just now, i'm getting it monday, i'll let you know.

they did, but ups didn't say much except it's shipped on 2.12

how do you "add vvt-i" to your engine, i've been trying to do the same.

i'm sure everyone one this forum would say, if you have the option to go synthetic, then go synthetic. sk can tell you all about it, he has a positive opinion of synthetic.

so the car actaully started then slowly died out? cuz i woudl actaully think the battery would go before the alternator