bdonkersgoed

I just got the same problem, and I believe this has been discussed before. I will try to find the thread. As a etmporary fix, try banging on you dash . . . it may make the light come back to life for a few weeks before going completely shot. Regards, Bryan

Hey Steveiej, My car has developed the rough idle as well, so I want to check out the air intake hose. Just a question: if the air intake hose is indeed cracked, do you need to replace it with a new part or can you simply seal up the cracks with silicone or something? Thanks! Bryan

I have looked into brokerage fees a little more and found that you get stuck with huge fees if you ship with a courier like UPS. However, if you ship using United States Postal Service then you only have to pay $5. Not too bad . . . Regards, Bryan

Hello Everyone, Since the day I bought my '92 ES300, the headlight washers have never worked. Although they are really a luxury item, I would like it if mine worked. I press the button and nothing happens . . . I can't even hear a motor sound trying to pump washer fluid. First of all, I assume that the headlight washers take the fluid from the same resevoir as the windshield wipers. So, I assume my problem is a shot washer pump for the headlights. Does anyone know where this pump is located? Is it expensive to replace? Is it the exact same as the windshield washer pump? Thanks for the help! Bryan

I didn't find my car with a shot strut to have poor manouevering capabilites . . . I just hated the noise, and the ride wasn't quite as smooth like a Lexus should be. I drove with a shot strut for a few months, although it probably puts unnecessary strain on other structural parts of the car. . . Regards, Bryan

With regards to the antennae, all that you need is the antennae mast (not the entire assembly). My antennae got stuck in the "up" position and then it got ripped off when I stupidly when through an automatic car wash that I didn't realize was a TOUCHING car wash Anyways, I got my new mast off of Ebay for like $20. It is really easy to replace: 1.) Turn the radio ON 2.) Pull out the old antennae mast (which has a long plastic feeder gear) 3.) Take your new antennae mast and set it in the antennae hole 4.) Turn the radio OFF 5.) Watch with amazment as your new antennae mast gets sucked into your car :P Good as new! Regards, Bryan

Your car is awesome SK! Like you, I am also starting to favour gunmetal rims over the chromes, but the chromes still look sweet on your car :D I also like the banner you made. It's good to see some active promotion of the site. It's always good to get new members to add to the knowledge base. Regards, Bryan

I bought mine due to the economical aspect. Not only do you get the prestige of owning a Lexus, but you get the reliability along with cheap cross-referenced Camry parts! What a deal! It's cool, 'cause I live in a small town and no one else in my town of 6000 people has an ES300 B) People think it is an expensive car, when really, it was cheaper than lot of the Accords and Civics out there :P Regards, Bryan

You may find this thread helpful: Previous Air Conditioning Thread Good luck! Bryan

Here is the Self-Diagnostic Test. It's pretty cool that the car has this . . . it's almost fun :P (This was originally posted by k9 crew) SELF-DIAGNOSTICS An Electronic Control Unit (ECU) within A/C-heater control panel monitors system circuits and stores trouble codes in memory if problems are detected. All codes, except Codes 22 and 23, are stored in memory. Malfunction is current if Code 22 or 23 is displayed. To retrieve stored codes, see RETRIEVING CODES. Codes are displayed at temperature display. See Fig. 2. RETRIEVING CODES 1) Simultaneously press and hold AUTO and recirculated air switches. See Fig. 2. Turn ignition on. All indicators will flash 4 times, at one-second intervals. Tone will sound when indicators flash. 2) A/C system will enter self-diagnostic mode. To end indicator check, press and release OFF switch. Read codes at temperature display. 3) If trouble code is displayed, proceed to appropriate trouble shooting procedure. See DIAGNOSTIC CODE IDENTIFICATION table. Codes are displayed in ascending order. To slow rate at which codes are displayed, press fresh air button to change display to step operation. Each time fresh air button is pressed, display changes by one step. 4) If tone sounds as code is displayed, problem currently exists. If tone does not sound as code is displayed, problem occurred in past and does not presently exist. Code Diagnosis 00 ................................................ Normal 11 (1) ............. In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor Circuit 12 (2) ................ Ambient Temperature Sensor Circuit 13 ................. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit 14 .................... Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit 21 (3) .............................. Solar Sensor Circuit 22 (4) .................... Compressor Lock Sensor Circuit 23 (4) ........................... Pressure Switch Circuit 31 .................. Air Mix Door Position Sensor Circuit 32 ................ Air Inlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 33 ............... Air Outlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 41 ....................... Air Mix Door Servomotor Circuit 42 ..................... Air Inlet Door Servomotor Circuit 43 .................... Air Outlet Door Servomotor Circuit (1) - If in-vehicle temperature is -4 F (-20 C) or less, Code 11 may set even though system is normal. (2) - If outside air temperature is -58 F (-50 C) or less, Code 12 may occur set though system is normal. (3) - If testing is done in a dark area, Code 21 may set even though system is normal. Shine a light at solar sensor and recheck codes. (4) - Malfunction is current. Code is not stored in memory. ACTUATOR CHECK 1) Perform step 1) of RETRIEVING CODES. When system enters self-diagnostic mode, press recirculated air button. Each mode door, motor, and relay will operate at one-second intervals. Press fresh air button to display codes one at a time, and perform step-by-step actuator check. 2) Check airflow and temperature by hand. Tone will sound each time display code changes. Each display code is associated with a system operating condition. See Fig. 3 or 4. Press OFF button to cancel actuator check mode. Hope this helps! Bryan

Hey Steviej, I didn't think that the tone of these posts were all that bad . . . I don't think that I or anyone else said anything offensive. This thread has become a little edgy at times, but that is just the nature of a debate. I think we all have some good points here, and I can totally understand people's frusteration with insurance. I am frusterated too, but I understand it enough to know that there is no better way . . . Regards, Bryan

Give several places a call. But keep in mind: 1. Don't believe the 'we'll always save you money' ads. NO ONE can always be the lowest. I've checked State Farm against Geico 3 or 4 times - and State Farm was lower every time. So, for drivers like me (very safe driving record, suburban locations, moderately expensive vehicles, State Farm comes out ahead - but won't always do so. 2. Don't fall into the trap of buying the least expensive insurance - which is fine until you have an accident. Look at the insurer's history and reputation. In the late 80's there was a major insurance company (you'd recognize the name) which was very low priced got in trouble for not paying claims. I personally know a couple of people who got burned (either claims were never paid or they had to get a lawyer involved to get their money - months late). I prefer to stick with a couple of well-respected firms and get quotes from them. Don't stop at the first quote. Ask them if they've given you all the discounts you're eligible for. Tip. Most companies offer multiple line discounts. If you have other insurance from them, you'll save money on your auto insurance. If you're paying over $100 per month for auto insurance (which includes most people with late model cars and/or high risk categories), consider buying the least expensive term life insurance you can get from the agency. It will only cost a few dollars per month but could save you 10-15% on your car insurance - plus you'll have enough insurance to at least cover your burial costs. Hmmm . . . maybe it is different in the USA, but here in Canada, the Property and Casualty (i.e. Car and home) insurers are pretty much separate from the Life insurers. I can't think of one major company off hand that insures both P&C and Life . . . However, what you say about multiline insurance is true. Here in Canada, you can get a pretty nice 10-15% discount if you insure your car and home through the same insurer. Also, I totally agree with you that no insurance company offers to cheapest rates to ALL risks. Each company has it's own target market. The company I am wish hates young single males, so a premium from them would be double anywhere else because they are purposely trying to push young males away. However, if you are a 60-year-old male, you can get one of the best rates around . . . I like what you say about "paying more than $100/month for insurance". Kind of funny, because I have a perfect record and am paying $340CAN/month for insurance on my old '92 ES300 (which isn't an expensive car to insure". That's what I get for being a young 21-year-old single male :P Regards, Bryan

Hey mburnickas, You seem to know of the insurance process. Yes, it sucks for the people, like myself (a young single male), who get porked. I am a very good driver. I aced my driving test (both car and motorcyle tests) and I drive ver defensively. Basically, I assume everyone on the road is out to kill me and I take it from there :P Yes, I get porked by insurance. Yes, it *BLEEP*es me off that I have to pay such high premiums . . . but that is just the way it is. I didn't hear a better suggestion from you . . . Yes, I also agree that insurance companies can waste some money, but it is the same thing with most large corporations. Yes, you do get something in return for your insurance policy. As jragosta mentioned, you get peace of mind and protection from going bankrupt. Put it this way, if car insurance wasn't mandatory, would you still purchase it? I bet you would . . . If self insuring was allowed, then you have a couple million dollars sitting around in case you injure or kill someone in an accident. Now, I consider myself to be one fo the best drivers I know, but does this mean I will never make a mistake? Certainly not. I like knowing that, if I make a mistake a total my car, the insurance company is there to help. I have been in two not-at-fault accidents in my life, and have thus gained tangibly from an insurance company, even though I am a good driver. I also agree with you on the "guessing" aspect of your home insurance. However, don't forget that this is the one insurance company in particular. Some insurance companies may require a home inspection before insuring. However, because home insurance is fairly cheap, they probably just rely on your honesty, with the penalty of fraud if you are caught in a major lie. Really, many of the questions that they ask you won't affect your rate by that much anyways. The main factors are the value of your home and the location. Just a tip on home insurance that many people don't know . . . If you have, for instance, a house worth $400,000 that is insured for $300,000 (due to inflation since the time you bought it) and you have a fire with $200,000 damage, you are only covered for $150,000. Many people think you are covered for $200,000 because your policy limit is $300,000 however, this is not true. Because you are only insuring 75% of the full value of your home, you will only be paid 75% of the value of any loss. Regards, Bryan

Wow . . . I haven't checked this post in a couple days, and there has ben a lot of discussing going on! To the complainers . . . well, I am a "complainer" too, because I pay huge for my insurance due to my age and gender. Does this mean I hate insurance? NO, definitely not! Does this mean insurance is stupid and should be scrapped? NO, definitely not! Can I grumble about paying high premiums? Sure, but that's because, as a human, I don't like to pay a lot of money. It's like taxes . . . people get *BLEEP*ed off when they have to pay a lot, but they must not forget what they get in return! Move to a third-world country and they'll find out what their taxes do for them! Now, back to insurance. Yes, it really sucks when, like myself, you are in a high-risk category and have to pay high premiums. I consider myself a very safe and very courteous driver as well. In my specific case, to match my risk of an accident to cost I should be paying a third of what I pay. BUT, that is just not how insurance works. I am a Actuarial Science student almost through University (and I am currently working at an insurance company) so I know. Insurance cannot analyze EVERY SINGLE PERSON individually, because the analysis process would cost more than what you are currently paying in insurance! The actuaries gather tonnes and tonnes and tonnes of data on many different rating characteristics (such as age, gender, etc.) Based on a VERY thorough actuarial analysis, they assign differentials to each of the rating characteristics (basically, a percentage increase or decrease in premium if you fall into the category). Don't doubt the actuaries . . . quite seriously, these are some of the smartest mathematicians in the world. Also, actuaries don't just pull rates out of their asses. They have to follow Generally Accepted Actuarial Principles (like Accounting's Generally Accepted Accounting Principles) or their asses could be sued huge. Also, rates are monitored constantly by the Government to be certain that they adhere to these principles--if they don't, then there is BIG TROUBLE! Yes, it sucks to be in a high-risk category, but that is just life. Bite the bullet . . . soon you will be paying cheaper insurance as you prove yourself as a driver. Are you STILL *BLEEP*ed off? Then I offer you a challenge . . . come up with a better system, that still allows people to be fully compensated in the event of a loss, and you will be a very rich man. Let me know what your plan is . . . I doubt that you can come up with one. If you can't come up with a better way, then you shouldn't be complaining. Yes, I agree that insurance isn't perfect. Neither is democracy, but it is the best that we've got. In a perfect world, insurers would be able to stick a cable into the brain of each individual person and get a risk rating, and charge them an appropriate premium. Or better yet, insurers would have a magic crystal ball that they could see your entire future in . . . now that would be sweet! Insurance companies try to make money, but they don't make as much as you would think. A lot of companies are just breaking even or even taking losses. Basically, they try to give you the cheapest premium they can based on your level of risk. Unfortunately, they cannot analyze you individually, and I think that is why you are so *BLEEP*ed off. It's understandable, but there is no better way. Regards, Bryan

My first car was a 1993 Mazda MX-6 when I was 16 (a sweet car). Somebody hit me and totalled my MX-6 when I was 19, so I bought the ES300 with the insurance money (and paid a little extra of course :P) I am now 21. Regards, Bryan

And yes, MANY factors determine the premium you pay. Here are the main ones: MAIN PRICING FACTORS: - GENDER: for younger people like myself, males pay nearly double their female friends! - AGE: you typically fall into one of the pricing categories: 16-19, 19-21, 21-23, 23-25, 25+ - MARITAL STATUS: Being married can affect your insurance a lot! Especially if you are a 20s male, where is ca almost cut your premium in half! Hurry up and tie the knot if you want to save some money :P - DRIVING RECORD: Most companies allow you one minor ticket. Each subsequent minor ticket will cost you about an extra 10%. Don't get caught with a major offense, as each one will increase your rates by at least 50% (that is, if the company continues to insure you!) The number of years that you are licensed also plays a large role. - VEHICLE: Obviously, if you drive a rare luxury car that has expensive hard-to-find parts, insurance is going to cost you an arm and a leg compared to a Chevy Cavalier. The ES300 is actually rated as relatively low-risk (probably due to the cross-referencing of Camry parts). Most two-door cars (coupes) will cost you a lot more than the same car as a sedan. It is statistically proven that people with coupes drive more recklessly than people with sedans. Cars that will be REALLY expensive on insurance are rare luxury sports cars (convertibles particulary). Also, in general, the newer the car, the more expensive the insurance. - LOCATION: You will pay a lot more for insurance if you live in busy Toronto than if you live in a small town like myself - USE OF VEHICLE: Simply put, the more you drive it, the more you pay. - COVERAGE: Your premium depends A LOT on the limits you set on your policy. Liability (coverage for people you hurt in an accident) is mandatory in Ontario and makes up a large bulk of your premium. Collision (covers you if an accident is your fault) is optional in Ontario, and costs quite a bit of money! The you also have other limits that you set that also affect your rates . . . ask your broker and he/she will explain how it affects your rate. Now, these are the major pricing factors. You can also get discounts. For example, most companies will offer a 10-15% discound if you insure both your home and car on the same policy. Also, if you insure more than one car you can usually get a 10% discount. Also, if you can get under a group plan (with your company or something), you can save 10-30%. Also, some companies will give you a loyalty discount of about 10% if you are insured with them for more than 3 or so years. Also, a Driver's Training certificate will save you about 10% but only if you took the training course within the last three years. Anyways, have fun shopping for insurance! :D Bryan

Also, or you Ontarians out there . . . you know, there is a difference between the quality of different insurance companies. Every year, the Financial Services Commission of Ontario conducts a Customer Satisfaction Survery that is available to the public (although 95% of the public are unaware). Have a look at the claims satisfaction ratings over the last year. How does your insurance company rank? I have always been with the higher ranking companies, and have ALWAYS had a positive experience with my claims. If you go with a cheaper company that has a lower rank, then you are at a bit of a risk if you are to get in an accident. 2003 Financial Services Commision of Ontario Customer Satisfaction Survey Regards, Bryan

Hey, let's not go too hard on the insurance companies! I actually work in the Actuarial (mathematical pricing) Department of an insurance company here in downtown Toronto. Yes, I agree that the primary goal of an insurance company is to make money . . . but what should it be? To have extremely happy customers get paid more than what they deserve and go bankrupt? I think not. The goal of ANY corporation is to make money, otherwise, who would want to invest in them?! Anyways, that aside, the insurance company does want to please it's clients. I have had two $10000+ calims in my short lifetime and both have been a pleasure. The goal of an insurance company is to pay you exactly what you lose. When pricing insurance, we match the risks to the prices, and then add a little bit for profit. Please be aware that the profit from insurance companies is much less now than it was 10 years ago, even though rates have been rapidly increasing. You can blame increasing insurance rates on your governement for not cracking down on insruance fraud. you would be surprised at the staggering amount of insurance fraus in Canada, particularly in the provinces of Ontario and Alberta. Di you know that it takes an Ontario resident more than six times longer to recuperate from an auto accident than it does a resident from British Columbia? Well, that's what the statistics say in recent studies. Now, it is not because Ontarians heal slower than British Columbians, but because they are more dishonest and milk the system for all it's worth. And this is the very reason why insurance in Ontario is so insanely expensive compared to some other provinces of Canada. Anyways, I hope this was a little bit informative for you guys. The general public is so ill-informed when it comes to insurance . . . Regards, Bryan

Hey Eric, Congrats on the SC300! I have never driven one before, but I am sure it is tonnes of fun! Now I am jealous :P How does an 18-year-old afford the insurance on a car like this?! In Ontario, you would be paying in the range of $5000CAN+ a year! I was looking at the SC when I bought my ES a couple of years ago, but opted for the ES for economical reasons. First, insruance is way cheaper, and second, the ES and Camry parts are interchangeable. I would hate to have to go to Lexus to buy all of my parts Anyways, best of luck with your new purchase. It should be tonnes of fun! B) Regards, Bryan

Thanks for all your replies guys . . . much appreciated! I stated above all of the work that was done while the car was in the shop last. They probably used aftermarket cap and rotor (as the parts were very cheap on the invoice). Maybe they did screw up in putting the wires back on? That theory is consistant with the fact that the car didn't misfire until immediately after the car was in the shop . . . What is an ignition coil? I'm not totally certain if there is a loss of power or not. Nothing too drastic if there is a loss. The ES300 has never been a very powerful car to begin with . . . I am currently having another problem that I mentioned in another post though . . . if my gas is below 1/4 tank and I rev the car up to about 4-5000 rpm when accelerating, the car stops, RPMs drop, and then the RPMs jump back up, giving the car a violent jolt. When the gas gets really low, I can't even take off slowly from a stop sign without the tires squaking due to this. I'm not sure whether or not this is related to the misfire . . . Thanks once again! Bryan

Well, I have owned the car for about 2.5 years now, and have never experienced this problem. It has 210,000kms on it (131,000 miles). I bought it 2.5 years ago with 132,000kms (82,000 miles). It just seems weird that this problem occurred as soon as I got the car out of the shop. I don't have the invoice right now, but I believe they did the following the last time I was in the shop: - Replace Plugs - Replace Distributor Cap and Rotor - Removed sludge or something from the engine? They mentioned something about this . . . - Rear Struts - Repair leak in exhaust - Oil Change A while ago, I tried to adjust my idle a bit by increasing it . . . could this have an effect? Maybe I increased it too much and the computer is trying to compensate? However, I did this about 4 weeks PRIOR to bringing it in to the shop, so I don't think this is the problem . . . Thanks for the help guys! Bryan

Hello Everyone! Ever since bringing my car to the mecahanic for a tuneup about 3 weeks ago, my car misfires or something while idling. If you feel the air coming out of the exhaust pipes, it comes out in spurts/puffs that you can actually hear. These spurts/puffs shake the car a bit. This is the best I can descirbe the situation . . . Does anyone have any idea as to what this could be? I had the spark plugs relpaced, and they put it simple Densos (non-platinum) all around. Would this problem be occurring beacause I am not using the original platinum Densos and NGK combo? I have read that the car can be picky about the plugs . . . Any help is greatly appreciated! Bryan

What did your friend use on his Accord to make the eyes? I can't see actual rings, but it could be the pic. It is hard to take a pic at night . . . Regards, Bryan

I agree with the article totally. Fuel grades have got to be one of the most commonly misunderstood consumer prodcuts. The big oil companies want you to believe that you are doing your car a favour by feeding it Premium gas instead of Regular (and hence the marketing words "PREMIUM" and "REGULAR"). Or, with Shell, Bronze, Silver, and Gold . . . it's all marketing. It frusterates me when I hear people with cars like Cavaliers and stuff say "I ONLY give my car premium gas!" because you know that it is definitely not required . . . If your car says in it's manual that it requires premium, then feed it premium. If it says regular, then feed it regular. It's pretty simple. Personally, my '92 only requires regular gas, so that's what she gets, and I have no problems ever :) Regards, Bryan

My problem was in the struts . . . they were completely shot, so I had them replaced and the noise is gone :) Regards, Bryan