python

u hooked a computer to it? the check engine light should have been on with a bad air meter problem......get all new parts from the dealer so u can rule that out as a possibility

THE IAC IS NOT ON THE PS PUMP!!!!!! please do not post if u dont know what u r talking about....the IAC motor is located on the intake, also the chances of it being your timing belt is remote, one other thing, i recommend putting all OEM parts for the tune up, especially the wires, they come with all the plastic routing and mounting that runs in front of as well as the valve covers, u just lay them down and hook them up to the proper place on the caps, your distributor caps have numbers on them that corrispond to each cylinder,depending upon which head u have it on, some have circles on them and some dont

have ur mechanic do a block check

geez enough already

he was quoting chris rock, shouldnt have dropped that word on the forum, im sure we have all seen his stand up.......

u had better know what u r doing when attempting a brake job on a car with ABS brakes.....u have to put a clamp on the hose when compressing the caliper(s) so the fluid doesnt run back into the ABS unit.....if u ruin this unit u r looking at some major money

i disconnected the battery and the light went out, the thing is, i had a slight misfire, it was occasional, i did a tuneup with all dealer parts, still had a misfire so i took it to a shop and they said injector misfire, when i put injector cleaner in it it went away,so....i bought some injectoer (rebuilt) and had em put in, it ran fine for about 500 miles, then i decided to take the car up to 100 mph to give it a test and it started misfiring again...since the light would not go out after disconnecting the efi fuse i thought something was wrong with the ecu....i guess i was wrong, maybe i have a faulty injector, should have bought new ones from the dealer but they are too expensive, o and btw when i put injector cleaner in it runs fine, no misfire at idle

i have code 25 on the cel and when i unplug the efi fuse for 10-30 minutes(i have done it 3 times now) the cel is right back on,its on instantly, no hesitation......any ideas guys?

i would drop the pan change the filter and then do a system flush...your fluid should be so clean u can hardly see it on the stick, i had my pan dropped and changed the filter and gasket about 10,000 miles ago and i had to do a system flush last week, it was so bad it had to be done twice to get it all out, dropping the pan is never good enough, theres always more than half of the fluid still in the converter and the valve body

should be the same

VMF is correct....if u drive it on the freeway, then u pull off the freeway and ur car starts to get hot, then its ur clutch fan there is another way of testing it but im not going to post it because u could get hurt

LMAO! ........YOUR Z HAD 140 HP AT BEST, i dont know what v-8 u were racing against but it must have been running on 6 cylinders

I work at napa and we have filters for every application, and our filters are made by WIX for napa, best filters on the market bar none

pretty much says it all right here

where did u get ur injectors? you can check injectors by doing an ohm test between the 2 pins

hp to weight ratio is what matters, i think the ls 430 would win myself, hes going to spend too much time shifting

there are plugs out there that produce 11 more hp, they are 25 dollars apiece

do not use anything but oem for tune up parts!

any pics?

ok so u have a bad tensioner, i knew something else was the culprit, i am going to have to agree with the guys this time and get the part from the dealer, the belt u can go aftermarket, i would suggest having someone else who is a mechanic do the work, its not that hard but u dont want anything happening like the tensioner flying off and the belt ripping apart ur radiator and or fan......o btw get the whole assembly not just the pulley, no sense replacing the pulley and have the tensioner itself go out down the road

hold on here, if the belt broke it broke for a reason, serp belts dont just break, check all ur pulleys to ensure they are smooth when u rotate them, if u dont know what to check for have a mechanic do it, otherwise your new belt will break as well, now as far as getting an aftermarket belt, i would get a gatorback made by goodyear, they are the best belts out there

how much are we talking about topping off? just a little? put water in it if its just a small amount, also check your coolant first thing in the morning before u start it up

who is going to replace it? a friend or shop.........if its a shop then let them get the part for u, that way if its defective they are responsible for fixing it

im not looking to "win" anything here, just enlighten people to the fact that pads from the dealership are no better or no worse than aftermarket pads, for people to get on here and say that they r is untrue......

u better look up the word so u know what it means......call the lexus parts dept, ask if they manufacture their own brakes......ive beat u guys senseless with facts not speculation about this subject and nothing seems to sink in, i have guys working with me that have 20 plus years in the auto parts field, guys that have worked in the dealerships......i have brought this subject up at work and they have laughed at the comments that have been made about OEM pads being any better than aftermarket pads........DEALERSHIPS DO NOT MAKE THEIR OWN PADS...... and they are made no differently that pads made from the same composition, so SRK do some reasearch........ i have