python

could be a speed sensor....

cant help ya on that one, is the same cel code comin up?

lmao....sorry tyler

if u dont get an oem pump u will be sorry.....make sure the timing belt and the tensioners and idler pulley as well

ur p/s pump will leak right into ur alternator and cause it to fail as well http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261358 this is a thread that should be on this forum as well....hope i dont get into trouble for this one....otherwise ill be on a timeout

i am just stating what i experienced.....all my post or responses, are things i have experienced and/or have extensive knowledge of, otherwise i keep my thoughts to myself....but on the other hand i havent actually taken care of this problem yet so its not factual

if u call the lexus custmer service and tell them your seatbelt needs to be fixed, they will send u to the dealer of your choice, get an estimate and call them back, if u decide to get it fixed, they will reimburse you after u send them the invoice or copy of it......this is what i had to go through, only i havent done it yet, hope this helps you, the number is 1-800-255-3987

here are my new rims, they are strn st-6 YOSHI'S

if i offended anyone i applogize..... also lexusfreak if u feel the need to ban me then dont threaten just do it cuz i really dont care anyways, im tired of dealing with people who give bogus advice to other members who know nothing about the topic at hand

u shouldnt expect anything doin a pad slap, just indicates the way you treat ur car and the way u do things in life...half-assed..... your pads will not last as long and ill bet u didnt even lube the slide points either.....you do whatever u want to to your car swine....its yours to screw up

ya ok...dont listen to him, i just had my timing belt done and it had the same code come up, car ran fine, but the check engine light would come on and off....they took my car apart after checking the wires to the cam sensors and found out the belt was one tooth off....have em check the sensors to make sure they are connected and if they are its ur belt

this whole thread is a joke and people like srk who make these types of responses and give advice like he is giving need to be shot on sight....go ahead and do a pad slap on ur Ls like srk suggests and see what u end up with! those steps that were posted is exactly what a good brake job consists of, something srk has no clue how to perform

your timing belt is one tooth off!!!!!! i dont care who posts anything differently....who did ur belt?

remind me to never take my car or anyones car i know to the place where you work SRK.....shoddy workmanship will only get u comebacks and lose customers.....so u can take ur lunch and go take an ase course on brakes, then come back and let us know what u find when u complete the course.....let me know of one ase cert course that says dont resurface the rotors when replacing pads, ill bet u dont even check them to see if they are within specs!!! what a joke....people, if u care at all about your car and safety i suggest u take care of it the way it is supposed to be...maybe thats the way they do it in ur country SRK but not here

tyler are u smoking crack again? put the pipe down!

02 sensor......change both of ur main 02 sensors with denso oem ones do not use bosch

i also have a 92 and when my starter went it would sometimes crank slow and sometimes it wouldnt, the thing is when it would crank slow it was in the morning, after i got to work and went to lunch it started fine.....i had it replaced and everything was good, make sure u replace the knock sensors when u do the starter, it will save u money if they go out at a later date....it happened to me so i know

its aluminum...use toyota red

Nulon Red Long Life Coolant is the preferred coolant to use in cooling systems that are fitted with aluminium radiators. It is a genuine 100% OAT based, long life coolant. RLL is dyed its distinct red/orange colour to instantly distinguish its unique chemistry from traditional green coolants. It should not be mixed with other coolants. As it is a concentrated coolant, it is to be used at 33% to 50% by volume in soft or demineralised water. Nulon RLL provides maximum protection against cavitation erosion of wet cylinder liners in diesel engines. Nulon Red Long Life Coolant is not recommended for use in cooling systems that have a copper/brass radiator (in such vehicles, use Nulon LL, which is green). If changing from any other coolant to Red Long Life Coolant , always thoroughly flush the system first as cross contamination will reduce the life of Red Long Life Coolant . Benefits: * 5 years or 250,000 km service life (whichever comes first) when used as directed * Guaranteed to suit every vehicle where red/orange OAT based coolant has been specified * Provides optimum, long term protection against corrosion of all cooling system metals * Compatible with hoses and rubber fittings * Expands operating temperature range of cooling systems (see details below) * Eliminates the need for supplemental coolant additives (SCA) in diesel engines * Reduces the incidence of nucleate or hot spot boiling * Not aggressive to water pump seals as is often the case with silicate based coolants * Performance of OAT inhibitors does not diminish with time * Particularly effective in controlling cavitation erosion wet cylinder liners in diesel engines

im not saying that thats the problem...take it to a shop and have it looked at

better go with the red

fuel filter probably isnt ur problem.....check engine light on? when was the last time u tuned it up? how many miles are on it? give more info please

well i own a 92 Ls with 146,000 miles on it, just went to lake tahoe and back with the a/c on some of the time.....car ran great and when i filled it back up and did the math....24.45 mpg! my 93 camry with a 3.0 gets a little better milage at 25-26 mpg!

ya and ban that moron user as well