tjmc11

The front o2 sensor is somewhat easy to chagen because you can easily get to it. Use some penetrating oil first to prevent stripping out the threading. Buy the sensor (shop around though...yours seems a bit high....I replaced mine for about 90 dollars I think), and replace it yourself if you feel confident. Email me @ tjmc11@hotmail.com if you have any questions or if you need photos or video of what you need to do.

I realize that they may look similiar and not be compatible, but many toyota parts (ie: the coils) can be interchangable with many other toyota models. As far as the bushings, I have checked them and although they are lose slightly, they are no where near the amount of play needed to cause the loose steering I am having. The bushings are a common cause of knocking noise however.....just fyi. Thank you guys for the input and replies......together we can beat the Lexus system of designed failure...or something like that.....hahahaha.

I have checked the plug-ins on the back of the Unit, all are plugged in. The Radio,and CD player works, the temperature control, fan, and etc... won't come on. The display comes on however there is no writing on it. I don't know what else to check or how too. I appreciate your input in this matter its Pro such as yourself that makes these forums what they are. I'll post this on the page you mention and see if there is anyone who may may have the answer. Sorry to hear about your problem. You may have a faulty monitor or the computer system may need reseting if it was involved in a wreck. I would search the forum for monitor / display problems first and go from there. Hope you find the solution.

The engine computer will not ever reset without completely disconnecting it. You will need to have the code reset by a mechanic or a diagnostic tool. You are currently suffering cat inefficiency which is common at higher milage. The catylitic converter functions just above the efficient range and can sometimes dip below that range from time to time. A new sensor helps with this problem, but usually you can have the cat reset and the light will stay off for a long while unless the cat is really close to going out. You will need to get the code reset or the cat replaced if you are getting and emmissions inspection. Make sure they erase the code history as well if you take it somewhere to have that done.

Could you send me a copy sindog@comcast.net THX I would appreciate a copy as well my friend. tjmc11@hotmail.com THX

That is your problem. Tap the slides with a hammer and they will break loose. They both have to move freely or you will never get it back together and the caliper will not float properly. Mine were seized up on both sides when I did my brakes and the rotors were not making good contact on the outside. One tap with a hammer fixed them and they moved again just like they are supposed to. My guess is yours will do the same. Let us know if this fixes it. The slides are designed so as to moved the entire caliper assembly in order to produce even pressure on the rotor. Heat buld up has possibly caused a slight sieze of the slide. Take a clamp or a large pipe wrench and try and squeeze the slide to move it. If that doesn't work, use some penetrating oil to try and loosen the slide. IT WILL SLIDE, but you have to fight it. You may even take the entire assembly off and hammer on it until it moves freely. REMEMBER to re-lube the slide with lithium grease if possible so as to lubricate it. It has obviously lost its lube which has probably caused the sieze. Hope this helps.

I have a 99 rx 300 with 245K on it. The current engine has 150 K on it. The engine was replaced due to oil sludge issue which caused engine failure @ 95K. Asside from that I have had a few issues but mostly routine maintenance. See below for a lits of things I have replaced and cost - I did all labor myself. Issues I have had: Strut mount bearing replaced TRANSMISSION Failure @ 200K for me - 4K replacement Lower COntrol Arms @ 230K - 500 Dollars Ball Joints @ 240K - 100 dollars PS Rack @ 244K - 400 dollars Coils - Replaced 4 of them so far - 75 each O2 sensors - 100 each approx. Exhaust Gasket - 30 Battery - 100 Bearings - 100 each Lights - bulbs only Transaxle seals - 65 each - seals transmission fluid at cv insertion Other then the transmission, most of the things I have replaced are normal wear and tear for vehicles. I have gooten over 200K in mikage before I had to replace any major parts. The tranny will go out almost gauranteed unless you have regularly flushed it etc. That is the only red flag really. All and all, I have spent about 10K over the past two years to replace thigns - mind you I DID ALL THE LABOR. At this point I have spent too much to sell it, might as well drive it until it fails. It has been a good vehicle espeecially considering the milage I have on it.

I have a power steering issue in my 99 RX300. The steering is very loose. As I am driving on the highway I can easily turn the wheel about an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn before the steering "catches" and begins to direct my vehicle. The wheel feels very loose. I DO however still have power when the linkage catches. Th issue is not the PS pump or a leak becasue I still have fluid and power, just loose steering (not due to ball joints or tie rod ends). This is not really a question because I know I have to change my rack and pinion to solve this problem. I just want to post my symptoms so others know what direction to go. On another note, I am researching now to see if the TOYOTA SIENNA (2001) rack and pinion set-up can be used in the rx 300. models. They look nearly identical in the pictures I have seen. If this is the case I will post and let you know because there is about a 100 - 200 dollar difference in price for the rack in the Toyota versus the Lexus. Symptoms: loose steering which begins to catch after 1/8 - 1/4 turn. No sounds coming from PS system. Not hard to turn / no resistance to turning. Solution: Replace rack and pinion. If anyone feels I am incorrect, please let me know. Thanks. Email me @ tjmc11@hotmail.com for any quesitons....

I replaced mine at about the same milage. I was able to do the job without a spanner wrench. You can buy an aftermarket kit and it will function the same. The water pump is the only component that needs to be quality, but most aftermarket kits have quality products. It is a bit of a project so do not expect to have it done in an hour or two. You can easily complete the job in 4 - 6 hours dependant upon your skill level. I finished in about 3, but you do need to know what you are doing so as to not mess up the timing and position of the belt. I used a drop of white out to mark my old belt and new belt so as to make sure we were placing the new belt on in the proper position. I think I have pics if you need them. You can email me at : tjmc11@hotmail.com if you need more advice. I can pretty much walk you through it if needed. DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT DONE....you will spend way too much.

Problem: Both side mirrors do not adjust when using the control box. Solution: replace the CIG fuse in most cases. Below the side mirror control area you will see the little flip down box on the far left of the dash below the display and to the left of the steering wheel. If you flip open the latch, the compartment will open. Once it is open, you can pull up on the compartment and out and it should come completely out without too much trouble......don't worry, it is durable and difficult to break. Once the compartment piece is out, you can look into the area behind it and see all the fuses. Side mirror control porblems: Most can be solved by replacing the fuse which is listed as the CIG lighter fuse (***list is on the back of the compartment you removed). The CIG fuse should be on the left as you are looking at the fuses, second row down from top, far left I think.....blue 15 amp fuse. I replaced mine and found that the side mirror controls were back in order. I think the fuse is a 15 amp fuse. Use a pair of needle nose pliars to get the fuse out, or a fuse puller. Place the new fuse in. Turn the key on and see if that solves the problem....it should. Also check any and all other fuses while you are there with the key off. Replace the compartment back into opening in front of fuse area and you should be good to go.

Thanks everyone for the sites. Keep'em coming because there are plenty of others out there. Try Lexuspartsonline.com as well.

Does anyone know of any good dealer part sites to buy from? I have found one, but I am looking to find some others to comparison shop. I found a few in the past, but accidently erased my favorites menu and lost the site addresses. Please post any worth while parts sites. Thanks!

If the car has less than 80,000 miles, you might be able to get the leak fixed under warranty. My 2000 RX300 developed a rear seal leak at 79,200 miles. I brought it to the dealer and he fixed it under warranty, no questions asked. While I hate the cost of most Lexus repairs, they tend to do a great job with real warranty situations. Ouch.......if it is the rear main....you MIGHT have to remove the tranny...actually you do, ......before you do anything....VERIFY THE LOCATION OF THE LEAK.....the leak could be coming from the rear head gasket or any other place behind and below the intake area. Good luck...I sure hope it is not the main seal because it is NOT A FUN PROJECT.....

Replacing the fluid prior to 30 K is extreme overkill. I've been working on trannys for years and VERY RARELY do you see and distinct build up within the fluids before 25 or 30 K. DO NOT change the fluid every 15 - 20 K UNLESS you are doing CONSTANT stop and go driving. Note, unless you have a flush machine, just draining the fluid from the pan will not cycle out the entire amount of fluid. ANOTHER NOTE: If you have note EVER changed your fluid and you have high milage, you are possibly doing yourself a dis-service by changing the fluid....WHY you ask.....the particles from the clutch plate in the worn transmission and transmission fluid ACTUALLY ADD to the friction needed during shifting. When you add fresh fluid, the worn particles from the plates are drained and the plates begin to slip little by little as the NEW fluid acts more as a lubricator compared to the older fluid with the loose particles in it.......BUT IT IS ALWAYS reccomended to change fluid on a regular interval basis from the begining of ownership.......problems can arise though if this has never been done due to the clutch plates being worn due to particle erosion in the tranny, ironicly this erosion actually aids the clutch plates over time....the trick is to keep the fluid fresh enough to not allow particle build up which will wear down the clutch plates to begin with. A friend just replaced my tranny in his 99 RX shortly after changing the fluid, which he never maintained......I told him it would happen and he didn't believe me (he had over 100K on it).

Clean the Valva and it should solve the problem. Take off the air filter box lid. Remove the air filter box along with the filter. Remove air hose which is attached to intake / throttle body. Remove th valve....note..the phillips head screws are easy to strip so make sure you have the proper size phillips head screw driver. Clean enitre valve thoroughly with throttle body / carb cleaner. Re-assemble, and this should help eliminate the problem. If not, check for fouled plugs, stretched line from accelerator to throttle control, or fouled coils.

REPLACE THE STARTER YOURSELF>........SAVE YOURSELF THE HASSLE AND MONEY............it should only take you about 30 minutes or so to change.......

You should have a dash light dimmer / adjuster. It usually looks like a knob with a light bulb on it. Turn it clockwises or counter clockwise to adjust. This will raise the overall light level of the dahs lights. Try this and let me know. There is one other possibility, but it is rare.

The starter is suprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine comartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is apprximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filet if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down. START IT UP!!!!!!

The starter is suprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine comartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is apprximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filet if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down. START IT UP!!!!!!

The starter is suprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine comartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is apprximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filet if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down. START IT UP!!!!!!

You'll be better served by changing the ENTIRE starter. See below for instructions......very easy to do. It is located to the left and below the area of the battery and air filter box......should look silver with 2 long skinny bolts running along the side of it. Follow the below instructions to remove the starter and replace. Email me with any questions: tjmc11@hotmail.com The starter is suprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine comartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is apprximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filet if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down. START IT UP!!!!!!

Go ahead and replace the whole starter and be done with it. SHouldn't be too hard to take care of and should run you about 165 dollars or so. To replace the starter on 99 - 2003 rx 300 models: 1 Remove air intake filter box completely. Remove filter, remove 3 bolts at base of the box, disconnect sensors and vacuum line from filter box. Completely remove filter box. 2 Remove battery. Disconnect positive and negative cable lines. Remove bracket running across top of battery. Remove rectangled shape casing from around the battery. 3- Look towards the left lower area of where the battery was and you should see a piece of equipment which resembles your replacement starter. There are 2 bolt and 2 connections to remove. REMOVE THE BOLTS FIRST (14 mm socket with extension should make it easy....be careful not to strip the bolt when loosening). Next remove the contact which comes from battery cable to starter (use 10mm socket and remove the line from the old starter). Remove the sensor connection by squeezing the end and pulling it out of the connection. Remove the old start from engine area. THE OLD STARTER IS NOW REMOVED!!!!!! 4- Take new starter and re-connect the power line from the battery (10mm) along with the sensor connection. Next, line up bolt holes from new starter to those bolt holes on engine block. START but DO NOT tighten the 2 bracketing bolts. Once both bolts are started, screw in by hand until you can no longer turn. Then tighten both bolts down tightly. The NEW STARTER IS NOW IN. 5 Bolt the air filter box back in. Next reconnect all connections from air filter box. Make sure the filter box opening is lined up correctly with the opening along the fender well area. Place filter back in (replace if needed) and clamp down opening. 6 - Replace battery, terminals (red to + and black to -), and bracket. 7 - START IT UP>>>>>>YOU HAVE JUST CHANGED THE STARTER. THIS IS MUCH MORE EASY THEN THE INSTRUCTIONS MAKE IT SOUND. IT SHOULDN'T BE TOO DIFFICULT. E-mail me with any ?'s tjmc11@hotmail.com Sorry if this is too descriptive or confusing.......just trying to make it dummy proof. See below for alternate explanation (may be easier to understand.....) The starter is suprisingly easy to replace. First take off the air filter box. Open the air filter box and remove the filter. Disconnect the air line from the air filter box which connects to the throttle body (this is done using a 10 mm socket or phillips screw driver and loosening the clamp). Disconnect the sensor and vacuum line which connect into the air filter box. Next, remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the air filter box. Once this is done you should be able to remove the air filter box as one complete piece and take out of engine compartment (place bolts inside the box and place to the side of your working area). Next disconnect both battery terminals. Remove battery bracket which holds battery in place (this runs across the top of the battery and bolts into the sheet metal along the front of the engine area). Remove battery from engine comartment. Remove rectangle casing surrounding the battery. Once the air filter box and battery have been completely removed, you will see the starter just to the left of where the air filter box and battery were. The starter is apprximately level with the base support of the battery. The starter has 2 bolts to be removed along with the contact terminal and sensor. Remove the two bracket bolts which bolt into engine (should be 14 mm I think) which are locate on each side of the starter (look at the replacement to locate exact position). Next remove the contact terminal (should be 10mm) connected to starter. Next remove sensor clip (this is done by squeezing the end and pulling off). \ Once starter is removed: Bolt contect connection onto new starter (should be 10mm). Re-insert sensor clip to new starter by pushing it in until you hear it click or until it is securely in. Next, line up starter bolt holes with bolt holes on engine block and start threading BOTH bolts before tightening one down. Snug bolts securely. NOW YOU HAVE REPLACED THE STARTER!!!! Replace Battery and terminal connections (red to + and black to -) and battery bracket. Replace air filter box and reconnect all connections taken loose. Bolt 3 bolts at base of filter box back to original position. NOTE: when replacing filter box, make sure the opening on the right hand side of box (large open hole) lines up with air intake opening from right side of engine compartment. Connect hose back to throttle body by tightening clamp. Replace sensor connections and vacuum line to air filter box. Replace air filet if needed in filter box. Clamp air filter down. START IT UP!!!!!!

Go ahead and replace the whole starter and be done with it. SHouldn't be too hard to take care of and should run you about 165 dollars or so.