osetleo

Based on recommendations of some folks on the forum I repaired the air-mix servo last Sunday. It was very difficult to unscrew the top screw that was behind the 2 heater pipes. It was as difficult to screw it back. It is not clear what type of screwdriver folks were using for this screw. There was no gap between heater pipes to get to this top screw and angling of normal (quite long and thin) screwdriver was not working well as it stripped the screw. Anyway, when I removed the air mix server I opened it, removed old grease, cleaned all contacts with contact cleaner. I noticed a small movement on the gear that sits on the motor shaft. I followed FROGGY’s procedure to move the stop to remove this movement and I also cleaned and glued this gear in this place. Then I applied some grease to gears only-I used Sil-Glyde from NAPA autostore-and assembled the servo. Then I tested it operation just by connecting with its connector and by changing the temperature settings with ignition ON. Then I installed it back in its position Based on recommendations of some folks on the forum I repaired the air-mix servo last Sunday. It was very difficult to unscrew the top screw that was behind the 2 heater pipes. It was as difficult to screw it back. It is not clear what type of screwdriver folks were using for this screw. There was no gap between heater pipes to get to this top screw and angling of normal (quite long and thin) screwdriver was not working well as it stripped the screw. Anyway, when I removed the air mix server I opened it, removed old grease, cleaned all contacts with contact cleaner. I noticed a small movement on the gear that sits on the motor shaft. I followed FROGGY’s procedure to move the stop to remove this movement and I also cleaned and glued this gear in this place. Then I applied some grease to gears only-I used Sil-Glyde from NAPA autostore-and assembled the servo. Then I tested it operation just by connecting with its connector and by changing the temperature settings with ignition ON. Then I installed it back in its position fighting as I mentioned with this upper screw. Tested again and air mix server worked. Please note, I marked up the position of all gears and regulating arm before disassembly. Thank you folks for wonderful posts on the forum fighting as I mentioned with this upper screw. Tested again and air mix server worked. Please note, I marked up the position of all gears and regulating arm before disassembly. Thank you folks for wonderful posts on the forum

Today I drove my wife's 99 RX300 and found out that air coming from vents is not heated. Air temperature regulator changes temperature settings on the dash panel but that does not effect air temperature coming from vents. I checked heater fuses 50A and 15A and they are both fine Do you have an idea what could be wrong and what I should check? Thank you very much for your reply

Dear Forum members, On my wife's RX-300 she noticed kind of sreeching/chriping noise coming from somewhere behind the glove box. Initially I thought it comes from the cassette player, but I removed the cassette block and the noise was the same. Then I realized that It comes most likely from the blower or may be servo-motors, but the strange thing the noise is there as soon as the engine running and is probably the same where fan works or not. I drove her car for couple of days and it is very annoying. Have you experienced similar issue and if you did, how easy it is to get to the blower bearings (if it is the issue). Really appreciate your input. Thank you.

Thank you. Looking back would you reuse your mesh (by washing/drying it) or frequently replaced paper filter (say every 15K)?

Lenore, the site http://www.magauto.com/default.asp?id=2137...;catalogid=3408 gives Toyota Camry price for the 35330-0610 of $35. Do you have part number for the gasket? Thank you.

On the way home tonight I stopped by at Pep-Boys to look at the OBD2 readers. There were 2 technicians charting and ask them if they will be kind enough to check codes for me for free. So, they did. Here are the codes they retrieved: P1133, P1135, P1153, P1155. I realized that it probably not realistic that I lost sensors in 2 banks at the same time. So, the common to these codes could be fuse 19 (25A). I pulled the fuse and it visually looked normal. Then I checked it on multimeter while I was holding it in my hand and it was good again. I put it on the table and (I don't know why) decided to check conductivity again. It was open!!! Then I took a big magnifying glass and noticed a tiny crack in the plastic, while the wire did not have visible damage. I replaced the fuse, reset the codes and... there are no Check Engine light after I drove for 15 minutes. Tomorrow wife has her car back. I think when I reset radio fuse I could have touched this fuse and may be moved it from its sitting position (10years). Weard? I would like to thank everyone for your replies and help. Thank you.

Lenore, thank you.

Folks, I found out today that you cannot check OBD codes at Autozone (or Kragen) in CA Bay Area and you cannot rent their scanners like they used to do before. Any suggestions on what scanner is adequate to buy for occasional home-garage troubleshooting? Thank you.

I just called to AutoZone, wanted to rent one for the test (like I did just half a year ago). Apperantly, in our area they don't check codes for free and they don't rent out OBD scanners. The only option is to buy with no return. Any suggestions on the scanner?

On Sunday while washing my wife's RX 300 99 I noticed the speakers do not work. The original radio/player unit seemed to work otherwise and the disks were spinning, just no sound from speakers. Later that day I reset fuses and the speakers started working. The next morning the Check Engine light showed up. Frankly speaking I may have reset some other fuses, as I could not see very well in the garage, and did not hit the Radio 1 and Radio 2 fuse immediately. I reset the code by taking the negative cable from the battery, but the Check Engine light came up again, while driving today. Otherwise the car seemed working fine. I will get to AutoZone to check codes today or tomorrow, but meanwhile does somebody have any ideas what I could have reset to get this. Really appreciate your respond. Thank you.

Search this forum using the word "actuator". You will see a thread by indiana which gives some great detail on the actuator repair plus it includes a link to the ClubLexus forum with a well illustrated how to remove the door panel. Thank you.

My wife told me today that the driver's door could not be opened with a remote control. I checked this evening and found that the locking nob was not operated with the remote control or door open button. I applied some W-40 and now it is completely stuck in the open position and could be closed with the key, remote control, or door actuator. All other doors are working fine. Is it an actuator problem? I really appreciate if anyone has hints what it could be and how to remove the driver's door panel to access the area. Thank you very much

My wife told me today that he driver's door could not be opened with a remote control. I checked this evening and found that the locking nob was not operated with the remote control or door open button. I applied some W-40 and now it is completely stuck in the open position and could be closed with the key, remote control, or door actuator. All other doors are working fine. Is it an actuator problem? I really appreciate if anyone has hints what it could be and how to remove the driver's door panel to access the area. Thank you very much

Yes it is fixed, my wife is driving it today after the retorical question:" Are you sure it is safe for me to drive? Are you absolutely sure?" So is it fixed?

First of all I would like to thank everyone taking time to share their experiences on this site. It is very helpful when there is a problem. I will add my 2 cents to the issue of troubleshooting "Check Engine" light. On Monday my wife's RX300 (99) with 67K had a blinking "Check Engine" light. The engine was not stable and the car behaved like carrying a ton or two of load. I rented the Scanner (apperantly they don't scan it for your at AutoZone in the Bay area) and is showed the following trouble codes:PO300, PO302, PO303, PO303, P1411. I recorded these codes, erased the car computer memory and drove the car until the "Check Engine" light start blinking again. (By the way, it was not blinking immediately as I erazed all trouble codes). I immediately stopped and checked codes again: PO303. I repeated it couple of times, I guess I was not happy with the result-with my luck it was the toughest cylinder to reach. At that point I decided that it is most likely an Ignition Coil. I put not more than 10% on the spark plug (with 67K on the care). The iridium plugs (I agree with Lenore-use only those) stay for a long-long time. I bought one Ignition Coil at Lexus (it was cheaper by $10) than in any of 6 Toyota dealership in our area. During the installation of the coil I removed only the top Lexus cover, cruise control bracket and a venting tube on the left side (from the top of the back valve cover). I also initially practiced on the front cylinders to remove the connector and check the plug. I used 2 small screwdrives to remove the 3rd cylinder connector and 10mm small head on the ignition coil bolt. I am pretty tall guy (6-5) and have big hands-played for 10 years basketball when I was young-but I was able to get my left hand in that small opening. If I would have to change the spark plug on the back, I would use the swivel socket to wrench adapter with one or two small extensions-that will make the job easier than using straight extensions.