tjmc11

I think you can get a lower price. 04's with 70 are going for about 19 - 22. If you look hard you could probably find one with about 40 - 50K for mid to low 20's i bet. Use Craigs list, Kelly Blue Book, Various websites etc, to help determine market value. And also know that the markup on used lowmilage vehicles is HIGH at the dealerships usually.

The front 3 are easy. The back three are a bit harder. I had to get 2 "wobble extensions", a plug socket and a ratchet to do the job. Without removing the entire intake, it can be done but is a bit of a job. You have to reach your arms in under the intake and feed each peice one by one into the hole, starting with the plug socket / wobble 3'' extension first. Obviously you have to remove the coils first. I would reccomend changing the middle coil as this one commonly goes out after about 150K. It can be done but is a bit tricky.

That light is a headlight issue.....

Picked it up today. Paid 15,900 for it!!!! Has just over 60K on it. Fully checked out clean etc. and runs great. I am pumped. Its good to know that the 04 has less problems expected than my 99. My 99 had 285 K on it and went through 2 tranny's and an assortment of other issues. Hoping for less problems out of this one. Here's to Lexus and all the great products they make.

Need a new vehicle (285K on original rx300, YES 285!). Buddy who is a dealer here in Houston ran across a wonderful deal on an 04 rx 330. About 3K below KBB. Has anyone had issues after 55K? Please, any and all input is welcomed. I must buy a vehicle soon and thought this one was excellent buy. A team of mechanics (myself included) checked it out and went so far as to pull plugs and look for carbon build up etc. Zero salt damage, runs great, and very minor body / interior issues. Anyone with an 04 or 05 RX 330, please give input! Thanks!

I think that clip is just a "squeeker clip" which will make noise as the pad wears down. I will look into the possible causes and post what I find. I will look o all data and see if any tsb's are out regarding the pad changes etc. I recall having to disconnect the cap wire on mine because the break lights came on. I will let you know what i find.

On the alternator: If you get a long extension to your ratchet, you can reach the adjustment bolt if you feed the extension and socket through the opening just to the left of the grill area. You may need to put a universal link before the socket, but this makes adjusting very easy because you can easily turn the ratchet. As for the PS: You need to get to it from the under side. I would reccomend taking the wheel off. Once you loosen the bolts, you may need a pry bar to push the assembly back far enough to tighten the belt properly. I had to. Secure the bolts and the job is done. I would reccomend doing them both at same time. I've replaced mine 3 times (295K on mine), and used aftermarket belts one time and toyota parts others. Didn't notice any noticable difference which would prevent the job from being done.

50's, You could open the bleeder valves on each wheel and bleed the entire system out, but that would NOT be my reccomendation. Most fluid will function properly without a complete change. My recommendation is to bleed the system. You can do this simply by replacing your current bleeder valves with speed bleeders (about 3 dollars each) which would allow you to bleed the system one wheel at a time by yourself. You can also bleed them the old fashion way by having someone pump the brakes, then hold the brake down, then loosen the bleeder valve for a short second thus letting out fluid and air. You would do this a few times on each wheel. Just make sure to refill the resevoir after each wheel to prevent air getting back into the system. This process would cycle enough fluid through the system to replace most of the fluid in the system.

Alex, Keep in mind that the brake light can come on for various reasons. It will come on mainly because of the sensor in the cap of the resevoir is sending the signal. I think it may also come on if the ABS sensor is not working properly, but I could be incorrect about that. I would disconnect the resevoir sensor line then reconnect it. I did that with mine and it worked. Some times the sensor in the cap will get messed up if too much fluid is in the resevoir.

Gentlemen, If it was working properly I would not have posted. The fan will cut out from time to time. I can manually put the fan on full blast manual mode with no air blowing. Then it will suddenly turn on randomly when or if it cuts out. I am using the A/C not the heater which I am aware that it will take time to blow. The issue is that the fan is not blowing whether on auto or manual mode from time to time and then will suddenly "choose" to come on....

Recently, I have notcied that the blower fan in my vehicle will intermitantly time in and out on occasion. Sometimes when I start up the ride, the fan motor will not come on for about 1 - 5 minutes. Once on, I have no issues with fan speed variation or power from the blower. My question is who has had this issue, or do you think it is the fan going out or a relay / switch going out? I am sort of leaning towards the blower going out because when relays / switches go bad they usually do not work intermitantly.

This kind of sounds like an air leak issue int he gas tank cause problems with the fuel pump creating enough vacuum to pull the fuel adequately. You could also have another type of fuel pump issue. You could also have intake issues. Typically when the intake gets dirty, and the IACV (Idel Control Valve Assembly) gets dirty, it can cause a rough idle. Plenty of posts on this as well.

Does it really have a non-interference engine? This discussion has taken place several times on this forum with knowledgeable posters coming down on both sides. I was convinced it was non-interference until I did a little research. There are many who say the 3.0L V6 with VVTi is interference because of the variable timing. I really don't know for sure but really wish I did! Yes and No are in a sense both correct. I for one had one break at about 3500 RPM and had NO engine damage. I know it was that RPM because I happened to glance at my tac exactly when it happened. With the spacing between the valves and the timing component of this engine being a factor as well, it is fairly difficult to cause valve/lifter/rocker arm, type of damage seen in other interference engines. The VVTi engine is clearance I thought.

REPLACE BOTH WATER PUMP AND TENSIONER when you do the belt. Just smart to do so why youhave it open. If you go up to 150K, you are on the high range and are risking it wearing out, but it has a clearance engine if it does happen to break so you will not cause engine damage if it does break.

I can help you with this, though I do not have a manual. email tjmc11@hotmail.com

You may have a compressor issue. Have someone start the engine with the A/C off. Look at the a/c compressor and clutch assembly. Havesomeone turnt he a/c on and see if the clutch engages. IF the clutch does not engage, I would first guess yoru compressor is locked up. Please post your results once you do this.

You may have an expansion valve issue OR your belts could be slipping due to water or looseness of the belt. IF your a/c works and then begins to blow warmer air, BUT AFTER you turn the a/c off for a while it begins to work again, it is more likely the expansion valve. If it suddenly blinks and you turn it off and on again and it works, I would bet it is an issue with belt slippage or looseness OR a clutch relay issue.

Update: Tested all sensors and they were fine. Clutch relay was fine as well. Replaced compressor and got cold air blowing again.

The code I received was 00. This tells me that there was no issue with the pressure/temp/ vent position/ cabin temp sensors. I am afraid I have a compressor issue. Purchased a compressor and will be installing it today.

Today my a/c light began to blink (did not run through water which is a common cause). The A/C then suddenly quit cooling. This happened suddenly. I hooked it up to my A/C machine and tested the vaccuum which held fine. It had 1.50 lbs of freon in it. Which to my knowledge is close to the correct amount (1.54 I think is reccomended). Other info: The Clutch engages for about 2 - 3 seconds and then kicks out / off. Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be. Is my compressor going out or is this a possible over-heating clutch relay going bad? Or possibly a switch/control issue? Please advise.....any help is graetly appreciated.

It can be accessed throught he wheel well and does need some extensive labor to be removed. I may suggest replacing the entire compressor if the cost is not too great a discrepency. The clutch can be replaced, but you compressor has wear and tear on it as well, so it could be beneficial to replace it and be done with it. You do need some specialty tools to remove the freon (vacuum pump and connections). It is not an amatuer job, but if you have experience I would do it.

I am receiving a code p0420. I am fairly certain this is the code for cat efficiency below threashhold. If anyone has experienced this code, please advise. I can easily replace the cat if needed, but I want to confirm that that is indeed what needs to be done. Also, if you know, which side (R or L) cat should I replace if needed. Thanks for anyone's input!

The noise is not coming from the strut mount....I replaced those as well and still had the noise when turning the wheel from time to time and when going over bumps. You can almost feel the vibration in the pedals and it sounded like the noise was coming from the lower area in the suspension most times. You can confirm that it is the LCA bolts by having someone turnt he wheel while in park and feeling the LCA for vibration.....I bet it will vibrate as you turn the vehicle wheel. I can almost assure you this is the problem after spending 6 months trying to find the noise in mine. The noise is variable but is more a popping sound similiar to a CV AXLE gone bad.....which could be the case but will nearly always make the noise when turning versus varying. Hope this helps people.

TO ALL: Your lower control arm bushing bolts have a tendancy to work themselves loose over a long time. MAKE SURE THES ARE TIGHTENED SECURELY. I replaced the following trying to eliminate noise when turning the wheel and going over bumps: Tie rod ends, rack, rack bushings, sway bar bushings, upper strut mount bushings, strut seat (rubber spring seat), lower control arm bushings, cradle bushings, etc. Once I ensured all bolts on the control arms were tight to spec, the noise went away.