tjmc11

Dorian, Do what Code says. My bet is that you have either an obstruction in the window track, the window came off the track, or there is a problem with the linkage between the motor and the lift mechanism.

For the windows - Hold the button ALL THE WAY DOWN, THEN HOLD THE BUTTON ALL THE WAY UP ----THEN.....KEEP HOLDING THE WINDOW SWITCH UP FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS AFTER THE WINDOW CLOSES. Do this for ALL the windows via the master switch, or individually on each window control. The key is to hold the switches up after the window has closed.

Some details needed: How many miles are on the vehicle? By "shuddering" what exactly do you mean? Are there any differences in vehicle performance since you've noticed the problem?

To do a flush with most machines, it will not matter which line you connect IIRC. I did one on mine at 90K and I do not think it matters as the flow will not be disrupted either way. Usually, there will be a different fitting for each separate line ala A/C High side and Low side connects if there is a difference.

I got 294 THOUSAND miles on my first RX. I had one tranny go out at about the same mileage as you, and had the rebuilt one go out at 294K. Even a rebuilt tranny still has some wear on it, they only replace the clutch plates and some gears and other parts as needed. It will function properly for at least another 80 - 100 K +. So if you are comfortable dropping 4K on the vehicle do it. I would not do it if you do not plan on driving it for at least another 60K. You wouldn't get your money's worth at that point.

I had the servicing done by a Toyota mechanic,apparently the only one there that works on the few Lexus's in town. Would have thought he knew what he was doing.. I just drove it a couple of blocks again to try and better identify the smell nuances and I would have to say it almost smells more like burning rubber then gas.. The VSC light that was on prior to this servicing isnt showing up anymore so I assume that they DID attempt to replace the A/F sensor. Maybe as u say Could have been done improperly .. I will take it back up in the morning... What would excess battery acid smell like if that is the issue? It definately has a acrid smell,and I noted that it somewhat burned the eyes too...Does that sound more plausible then to be excess battery acid? I forgot to mention that the rear differential fluid along with the transfer case fluid were also replaced at this time.. Dont know if that could be at all related to the smell as I am totally ignorant of the mechanical workings of a vehicle.. Am Female so I have to be educated on these matters... Hate to say it but maybe the mechanic does too. Thanks for any and all tips that may help me understand possible sources of the smell. Sure is appreciated.. By the way do you know if a dealer who has performed these services listed above is obligated to report ""ALL of the services they've done on your car"" back to Lexus...I see lexus tracks them on-line so they can remind you of what needs to be done in the future but I am confused now as to why the a/f sensor replacement and the battery replacement werent mentioned on my Lexus maintence service on-line record (just checked it)BUT the rear differential and transfer case fluid replacements were... Any thoughts or help u can give me based on your own experience as to what all gets reported back to Lexus after a servicing is done.? It just seemed weird to me that half of the things they purported to do werent itemized on the Lexus Maintenence site though the Dealer gave me a invoice indicating they were done. How do they actually then know what you should be getting done in the future if ALL of the services done arent all posted.? Confused to say the least..Would it have anything to do with the mechanic maybe using ""after market"" parts on the two jobs ie; battery and a/f sensor that the dealer then decides not to record them with Lexus? I wouldn't think after market parts would make any difference. If he changed a bunch of fluids, there is a chance that he spilled a bit and it could have gotten on the exhaust and obviously burned a bit which could have caused the smells. I would think that he placed enough fluid back into the differential. Anytime I smell something I first think is it: oil burning, gas leaking, exhaust leaking, power steering or brake fluid leaking and burning, transmission fluid burning....if those check out, i look for things like belts that may have malfunctioned and burned due to friction (as if something locked up), or tires rubbing on something. I would certainly look into the engine compartment and look to see if you can spot smoke coming from and area while the engine is hot / warmed up fully. If you see smoke, you may have found your issue location. There is also a chance you could have a slow but steady freon leak from your coil which could come through the vents, but you wold know soon as your a/c would stop working eventually. If the smell persists and you don't have a check engine light on or a difference in vehicle performance, then go have it checked out. If the smell was not present before the service and then after wards, I would take it immediately to them and have them re check their work.

Somehow something just isn't right there ^^^^^^! This compressor isn't being delivered late at night by a guy named Vinnie who looks around to see if anybody is watching is it??? Could you share the source with us? Most of the time when something doesn't seem right, it's because it isn't. (got this new 2011 RX that I'll sell for $15,000. just because I'm in a bind and need the money. By the way, I need it in small bills to pay off all of my creditors, and Oh, another thing, they said the title would be here in about 3 mo., the DMV is kinda backed up). There are actually CHEAPER ones on ebay. I think I bought my replacement for my RX300 fro around 185 IIRC from a buddy who owns a shop and got me a wholesale cost, so that seems about right. Of course there are brands that cost more, but even a cheap brand will give you 50K out of it easily. As for the OP's question, I think he will be fine as long as he gets the mounting bolts off as one or two of them are tough to get a ratchet on.

If you had the O2 sensors replaced by someone else, they could have failed to properly to the job and possibly caused another exhaust leak. If they failed to actually reinstall the o2 SENSOR, you would likely have a check engine light on so i don't think that is the issue. Odors could be caused for a variety of causes, but if it is pungent and smells like exhaust or gas, I would certainly check what they did. The Rx330 have been known to have an exhaust gasket leak but you would normally hear a leak that would cause that much odor. Check the battery area and see if they left excess battery acid from the last battery. Clean if necessary.

Btindel, It is a fairly straight forward job. Though having a rack to life t the vehicle can make things easier. If not, use large jack stands as you will have to work from both the top and the bottom. You can use extensions placed through the left side of the grill area to use the alternator adjustment bolt to loosen the alternator etc. It can be a bit tricky to get at the bracket bolts of the compressor, and the lines, but nothing that a little hard headedness won't solve. If you take out the alternator it makes it easier to get at, but the compressor comes out of the bottom IIRC. Use racheting wrenches once you loosen the bracket bolts if you can as you will not have much clearance on a few of them. Hope this helps.

On the RX 300 models the extension piece that actually raises the antenna breaks after time. It is a cheap part and can be replaced easily by removing the rear interior quarter panel covering, along with the antenna securing thing on the exterior. If you can hear the motor running when you turn on the radio, it is the extension piece. If not its likely the motor.

No this is not from your car if the belt number you gave was correct friend. You would know if you were missing a belt fairly soon. A/C and Alternator would not work. OR, Power Steering would not work.

I would certainly make sure you have enough freon in the system. Once you have checked that (I think it should be 1.55 lbs), look to see if yourBLENDOR SERVO is stuck open which allows too much out door air into the system and makes it difficult for the coil to cool all the air to the proper temp. You can also check to make sure you condensor fan is working properly and creating enough air flow over the condensor.

On my old RX300, I had issues twice with the RACK BUSHINGS. These are the bushings that hold the rack to the sub frame. They are rubber. If you have an oil leak, the oil can ruin the rubber bushings. Thus giving quite a large amount of play into the steering system. Please check this!!! Check the rack bushings!!!! I would put money on that being your problem.

Had a small issue with the fan motor connection into the fan ECU. Had to make sure the connection made good contact so the fan could work, but other than that, its been great.

You could have a variety of issues. I would check the following: Loose tie rod end Faulty alignment - check if recently had alignment done bad control arm bushings faulty / worn steering knuckle power steering rack issues Look at the camber angle of the tires as well when parked. Look to see if they are pointed inward or outward.

You may have already tried, but did you try holding the button down until the roof goes through an ENTRIE sequence. It should open all the way, close all the way, tilt open all the way then return to the original closed position. Once it has done this it should work correctly. Post if you have already tried.

Ebay will render the best deal, unless you want dealer parts.

PK - thanks for the input. It turned out to be BOTH fan connectors (from factory) were loose and not makeing good contact with the Fan ECU. Thanks again friend.

My reccomendation would be some weather strip adhesive, OR, gorrilla glue. Make sure and lightly sand if possible the area you want the adhesive to adhere to. This would help the adhesive bond to the area / strip.

04 RX330. Cooling fan(s) were not operating as normal and thus a/c would not cool (due to pressure rise in system due to heat build up in condensor) at idle / stop. However, A/C would cool as normal when driving / moving due to air flow over condensor / radiator. Tested fans (by hot wiring) and the main cooling fan (drivers side) was functional, while the auxillary / condenser fan (passenger) was not working properly (intermentant due to loose cnnection on MOTOR SIDE. Purchased NEW Fan ECU (above fans, and acts as a ground relay if I am not mistaken). Connected main cooling fan to new ecu. Started motor, and brought up to temp. As I would bring RPM's up to 1500+ the main fan would kick on / off. Connected condensor fan next. Turned on a/c in vehicle while at idle. Fan DID NOT COME ON. Turned off vehicle. Disconnected condensor fan, left main fan connected for time being to go pick up new fan motor. Replaced Fan Motor for condensor / auxillary fan. Connected both main fan motor and auxillary motor to Fan ECU (New ECU). Started engine. Turned on a/c and FANS STILL DID NOT WORK, AND clutch for Compressor kept kicking on and off. Tested ECU to see if it had current (positive +) running through it with test light on postive terminal on Fan ECU. Tested good for current for BOTH main fan and auxillary / condensor fan connections. **This leads me to beleive that the ECU is not opening ground switch for some reason, or is unable to open a ground switch (could have been effected by original test after installing new ECU - see above). PLEASE, SOMEONE, direct me what to check for next. Temp sensor?, a/c pressure sensor?, IS THERE A MAIN RELAY for the fans somewhere? HELP HELP HELP!!!!!

That is freaking amazing friend. Very talented in my opinion!

Very nice. You certainly have upgraded you RX 300 to a RX 330 level. Nice work.

Listen to SWO - dude knows what he is talking about.....

There is no way it is an interference engine. I had a belt snap on me and had zero engine damage. Mind you I was at about 3500 rpm when it happened. (belt snapped due to faulty installation of idler pulley in timing components).

I'm curious how you came to the conclusion that its the #3 coil is one that commonly goes out? It certainly is the most difficult one to get at but I'm wondering if there's something that causes this one to go before the others? I've replaced all of mine (3 failed at different times so I just replaced the rest as well). I'd caution though that coil failure seems to be yet another issue more common on 99-00 models. It could be the age and mileage of the older vehicles but I just don't see folks reporting it on 01's and later. The coil part number changed after 01 so there may have been a problem with the originals. Back on topic though, I'd concur with the rest that the back three can be done but its a pain. I can see it being a 2 hr job but if you don't DIY at least buy the iridium plugs yourself and take them to your mechanic, that should cut the job down to about $250. Personally I find that a bit high, I don't know your area at all but I can't imagine that you wouldn't be able to find a shop to do this type of job for less. The #3 coil is in my opinion effected by the heat of the engine more so than others. The coils are a regular problem. The coils only have a certain amount of milage they can withstand, which is lessened by the heat in that area. If you tak a temp gun, #3 cylindar will always be a bit warmer in that engine (relatively). The heat simply cannot escape as well as the other cylindars.