VMF

what part is this?

hey, welcome to the club 1. you cannot use aftermarket CD changer with the factory head unit. 2. this means that ciqruit components for your instrument panel gone bad and this is the common bug for the gen I models. you can either fix it yourself if you have experience with soldering or you can send it to the company that will fix it for you for around 150$. couple of guys here did this already and they will provide you with more info if you gonna need it.

this is the sound of the gear in the starter clutch, and yes it might broke anytime now, i mean starter will be ok and it will spin, but the clutch will not connect starter motor with the flywheel. your gear is dying:( and the process of changing the starter is really painfull.

did you check the fluid level in the tranny? it is not normal for the 3 sec period to be there for the rear gear but the hight rpm during warm up is normal and i would recommend you to wait till it fully warms up and then put it in to gear, this will save your tranny and engine some time.

dont u worry bout those 2 screws, they dont really mean anything and only there for ur protection to prevent rotor on fallin on u when u remove the wheel:) did u surface rear rotors as well? front rotors cause more shaking but rear ones might cause some as well.

no 94 is not OBD II compliant car, only 95 and up are. so you just wait till one of the gen I professionals will give u a howto on how to get the codes out.

well when i had this sympthoms it turned out to be warped rotors. go back to the shop and make em check the surface with the machine.

OEM procedure includes bleeding the pps and turning wheels when they are on the ground and when the car is jacked up. but in some cases its not enuff to get all the air. i did pps flushon my car and ps pump replacement on my friends GS and the open cap is the ultimate solution to get all the bubbles out.

but he has vibration only in the brake pedal, not in the whole car. i had both vibrations once and what UCF told us will help to get rid of the body vibration at certain speeds but brake pedal vibration is related to the rotors. i might be mistaked but warped rotors were the cause for my 96 and my friends 94 LS.

hmm, ABS and sunroof, looks like you have a shortage somewhere. get error codes out just in case it might lead you to the location of the shortage. another guess is that ur ECU is dying slowly and has some internal shortage, this is easier to troubleshoot but more $ to fix.

procedure i decribed is not even for turning but for checking if the surface of the rotors is even, they just might be defective.

i did the oem procedure too and i still had some bubbles left and some1 here suggested leaving the cap off for the night. so do it just in case:)its not gonna make it worse.

love the game, just dont have time to really play and install LS:)

shudder comes from the bent rotors. did you brake hard after you installed new brakes? did you machine new rotors? if not put em on the surfacing machine and first leave a little pitch between the razor and the rotor and they start minimizing the distance and check if razor will touch the rotor only in some areas. if it will be touching only in some areas it means ur rotor is bent. from my experience the brake pedal shuddering comes only from this cause.

wait till gen I gurus will see the post, they will help you, they have all the codes and they have troubleshooting schemes for em as well. tnite is sunday night b4 memorial day so just be patient:)

oh yeah, thats the reason we got it, LS eats too much gas plus i dont wanna drive it to work and put extra miles on it. its a leisure car, not everyday car, at least not for me:)

there not a lot of shops out there that have these things. you can try lexusgrill but they overcharge you like twice, i think its 450 or more on their site while i was able to get the same grill for 260$ shipped through my friend but this connection is gone:(

r134 will work just fine, or you can get an artificial r12 if you dont wanna change oil in the compressor. this is what i did in my legend. i have to agree that r134 is not that great on the Ac system that was designed for r12. r134 works just great in my LS but i dont know any conversions that will get ur air as cool as it was with r12

i dont think that the clogged scren will cause air in the pps. leave the reservoir open for one night and see if you will still get the bubbles. it helped in my case.

true that, there is no acura like legend:( too bad they gonna be history pretty soon

bushings, my friend, the noise ure hearing caused by worn bushings.

i prefer polaroid sunglasses, pretty cheap (40-80$) and very nice and they have polarized lenses.

93LS, your LS is in perfect shape and paint is in very good condition for its age. SWO, those 04 civics are pretty nice and affordable and i would rather drive it to work then LS since its cheaper in both maintanence and gas terms:) as to camry, 2003 camry is very nice design and it looks a lot like ES. Accord is very nice but its louder and has less hp. i like all the cars we got but none of em can compete with LS in any qualities but camry is pretty close in the ride quality. i always feel so powerful when i'm driving LS after driving camry civic or accord, its like another world. i press the gas and the car actually accelerates:) Legend is a pretty nice car but its aging and requires more and more maintanence. i just did DIY radiator swap last nite and tomorrow i will try to fix my AC since its gettin pretty hot outside. here are pix of the civic

you dont disassmble it, you just remove it from the pulley, unscre the fun from the clutch and screw the fan to the new clutch and then put it on the pulley. thats it i'm not sure if u have to tazke the radiator off to get it our for your year.

you have a clutch fun wich should adjust its rpms depending on the temp of the engine. it looks like its stuck that is why you are always gettin big rpms on ur fan