vyhanh

Hi, The part number is commonly used in Toyota vehicles including Lexus LS400 and pickups !!! Link: http://lx-parts.drivewire.com/buynow-lexus...n1~pcd3113.html

Hi, Questions: 1. Can I leave this leak for a while? 2. What type of oil is leaking (tran, diff, P/S, Engine)? I think it kind of red in color. 3. The dealer will look at it on Thursday. How can I tell that he diagnoses the problem correctly? 4. By flushing the transmission and using synthetic engine oil, would these have corrupted the seal (if it was the seal)? Thanks VH

Any Toyota dealer stocks it

You can order the owner's manual from Lexus website for free. Driver sidekick panel is the panel on the body to the left of your foot.

Just took the car to JiffyLube. The manager took a look and said the oil seal (between the oil sump and the trans pan) was the culprit. Any thought?

see attachment. Where the jack stand is (behind the front wheel and front of rear wheel), you will see a break in a continuous metal line and that is where you put your jack SEE ANY CAR OWNER MANUAL UNDER FLAT TIRE AND IT WILL TELL YOU

Hi, Thanks for all the tips. Learned something new everyday. What a forum ! :P I definitely think it is the trans pan (leak is at middle of car, behind the oil sump/pan). Fluid is red in color.

Hi, 1. Jack up car (taking precautions of blocking all the wheels and using jack stands) 2. Get wheel off 3. Get brake caliper off (by undoing 2 bolts) 4. Get pads out 5. Get caliper brackets off (may be tough here; the bolts are larger than the caliper bolts) 6. Using crowbar (against the hole where the caliper bracket bolt screws into) and lots of wd40, get the darn rotor off: so rusty around the rims where connected to hub. And what amazing change in the ride and brake the new rotors made.

Hi, Last few days, I noticed that there was leakage in the differential (I think that what it is: the grey metallic looking odd shape behind the engine oil pan). It leaks along (ie across the car) the joint. I tightened all the bolts without any success. Any help? Difficult to fix? Thanks

Finally took 2 hours to change both rear rotors, Using crowbar and lots of wd40, got the darn things off: so rusty around the rims where connected to hub. And what amazing change in the ride and brake the new rotors made.

The torque wrench is an INVALUABLE tool. Money well spent. It can be used to torque: 1. Wheel nuts so that the brake rotor is not warped 2. All other nuts and bolts Price range: $40-$130

A survey on TV last few days showed that LS430 was a 3rd choice (behind Tahoe and ???) to pick for a road trip!!! Yeah !!!!

Helpful links: http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos.htm http://www.lexls.com/tutorials.html

What it means is that you use a tool called 'torque wrench' to tighten things (bolts, etc...) to a specific force so that the bolts are not too tight they can be stripped, hard to remove later on... This torque wrench can be purchased at Sears, Auto stores and come with different setting ranges eg. from 0 - 80 lbs, 20-120 lbs...http://www.performanceproducts.com/ProductPage.aspx?productname=Torque+Wrench&productid=106276&producttype=10&referer=1469

http://www.lextreme.com/tb.htm

What I did was: 1. Purchased from Toyota dealer the Red fluid 2. Brought it to JiffyLube for them to use machine to flush the coolant system and at the same time refilled using the red fluid I brought. Cost: $70

Follow this thread for red/green coolant? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=red+coolant

May I guess that you drive the Corolla/ 200SX and they drive the LS and Merc? ;)

You may have to use genuine Toyota coolant (should be RED). There has been lengthy discussions on the coolant topic

Hi, I thought that I have few cars but you have 7 :o

Hi, I don;t know about the Lexus (your year model) but on my 91 Mitsubishi Galant (R12), it was easy. They did (I am not sure now that they change to R134) sell a kit for you to recharge the R12 yourself. But buying R12 is expensive these days (plus the EPA). I think better to spend money to switch to R134

:o Thanks CUman: I had the same thing in my manual. The reason I did not mention it in my posting was that I was worried I took on more work than I needed to. Thanks for explaining the adjuster (I did not understand what the manual said

I need help!!! I checked the workshop manual about rear rotor and it seemed to be straight forward. Any idea since the rotor seems to be stuck as if welded onto the hub!!!! Thanks Vh

Hi, 1. I released the rear brake when I trid to take the rotor off; I even put the trans in neutral. I noticed that I could rotate one rotor and the other one rotated as well. But I could NOT get the darn thing off 2. I also removed the 2 small phillip screws on the rotor. I forgot to mention that I did also remove the grease cap, removed the cotter pin, the lock ring, but stopped short of the hex nut and thrust washer bcause the hex nut was too big. I believe that this hex nut stopped from removing the old rotor off the stub axle.

Hi, The rear rotors came in. Checkers machined both before I took delivery. 1. Went home 2. Cleaned new rotors with brake cleaner 3. Jack up rear of car 4. Tackle rear wheel (driver side): custom wheel lock nut could not be undone! 5. Tackle other rear wheel (passenger side): got wheel off 6. Got brake caliper off 7. Got pads out 8. Got caliper brackets off 9. BUT old rotor seemd to have been FUSED to .... COULD NOT GET DARN THING OFF... Using rubber mallet, cheat bar.... Did not want to come off !!!!!! Did I miss anything? VH