steve2006

I've never heard of the company or person involved but there again I'm in the UK but if he's done 2500 he should know what he is doing. The price is the cheapest I've seen for the cluster repair although if you can solder it costs a couple of bucks for the capacitors. If you aren't sure ask for some testimonials from satisfied customers and check his ebay feedback. Another option is to download the repair tutorial and ask a local radio repair shop to fit the parts for you. If I wasn't so far away I'd do the job for a couple of beers. If you do decide to send it make sure it is well wrapped and insured in transit. Edit, just had a look and with 100% feedback and a lot of repairs I would go for it.

First have the AC system checked by a professional outfit they will be able to diagnose any problems with it and make sure the correct amount of refridgerent is present, it's no good guessing as an underfill or overfill will cause problems of one sort or another. Once you are satisfied this part is working as it should you then need to look at the flap/vent controls and that the heater flow valve in the engine bay are all working right. Basically when the AC is set to cold the heater valve should close off the warm water supply to the heater matrix and various flaps direct the flow air over the AC condensor. Other flaps control the air flow from the dash for example from the center or side vents. Another cause could be a clogged up pollen filter which is located under the glove box and prevents a good constant airflow.

If this started after the timing belt was replaced I would start by checking the crankshaft position sensor and the wiring to it, this often gets disturbed or damaged when a TB is replaced and the symptoms you have point towards this part failing as they can become temperature sensitive. It is also easy to not correctly refit the wiring loom from the CPS and it ends up getting chafed by the timing belt or trapped in one of the covers over the belt. It is located close to the crank pulley.

Short out the thermo fan switch on the radiator and see if the fan kicks in. I understand there is also a 30 Amp fuse that supplies power to the engine cooling fan not sure on location but probably inside the engine bay fusebox behind the battery, there should be fuse details on the inside of the fuse box lid.

Correct solution is to replace the cat obviously but an unconventional way is to remove the old cat and shake or break out all the broken pieces but this may then lead to another problem, the Engine Management Light may come on!

Is this any help? http://www.lextreme.com/fan.htm

This link may help you http://www.lextreme.com/ascon.html

According to the circuit diagram the only 2 things which would cause this fuse to blow is a short circuit on the wiring from the fuse to the alternator or the alternator itself. http://www.lextreme.com/diy/altern3.gif

If you look under the seat you may find a piece of leather you could cut off and send to the tannery for a color match but bear in mind ageing will have changed the color of the seat so it may not be possible to get a perfect match.

If the pump runs by hot wiring it there is a break in the circuit somewhere. If you look at the diagram you will see the "Check Connector" this is the oblong shaped black box located on the top driver's side of the engine it should say "Diagnostics" on the cover. Remove the cover and connect the pins marked FP and +B together this will effectively by pass most of the circuit and allow the fuel pump to run and the engine should then start and run. It is then a case of checking for the correct voltage at each component, start at the fuel pump and work backwards towards the fuses looking for 12 volts along the way, when you get to the point where the 12 volts has disappeared that should be the component which has failed. This link provides a bigger image All the points with +B on them should have 12 volts present. http://images.ttyr2....l-schematic.jpg

The basic engine is the same but there are differences in certain areas, for example the JDM engine has traction control so the throttle body has 2 TPS and a TRAC ECU which intrgrates into the Engine ECU and there is no EGR system fitted ( that's a bonus as there is no pipe to fracture). The cooling fan on JDMs is vicous coupled and the wiring loom for this system may not be present on your car which again may integrate into the engine ECU The wiring loom will therefore be different to accomodate these differences and although you could work around these it could lead to problems with the engine management system if parts are not connected. I would go for a USDM engine if you want a straight fit.

A common fault is the driver's side coil failing or breaking down when warm something you haven't replaced and for around $30.00 worth a shout. Are all the ignition components in good order, dizzy caps, spark plug leads, the leads from the coil to the distributors and the rotor arms in the distributors. When it is dark start the engine, lift the hood and look for signs of arcing from the spark plug leads or coils. Taking off the covers will help you see better.

Welcome to the LOC. It might be worth checking the transmission mount, if worn it can cause noises and is located under where you felt the vibration. Fairly easy to replace and not too expensive.

Done it yet?

If it runs down the buttlefly flap shaft it can enter the TPS may be worth blasting a hair dryer into the throttle body intake to dry things out, if you remove the TPS it needs setting up using a special proceedure.

Common problem on the late LS400, the float in the waher bottle sensor gets stuck as it absorbs water and gives a false reading. There was a fix tutorial around I will post the link if I can find it Found it!!! http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=31393&st=0&p=360415&hl=+washer%20+level%20+sensor&fromsearch=1entry360415

When you removed the throttle body the TPS simply unplugs and there is therefore no need to remove it from the throttle body so it should not have gone out of alignment.Did you clean the TB while it was off? Did you allow any cleaning solvent to get into the TPS? Also recheck all the connectors and vacuum pipes you removed to get to the knock sensors and also make sure the crankcase breather pipes particularly the one under the TB is correctly refitted and secure. Basically you need to double check the work you have done if all was OK before the job.

Search and you will find! http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-LEXUS-LS400-COOLANT-RESERVOIR-/251016825011?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a71c4c8b3&vxp=mtr

I understand Rockautos do OEM Toyota ones for around $180.00 delivered?

There are plenty on ebay if you have a look either crystal clear or smoked. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=lexus+ls400+indicators&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_odkw=lexus+ls400+indicator+repeaters&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 I've also never seen a Lexus LS400 on steel wheels?

There's even a video tutorial for this

You will be on Air suspension so there is lots to go wrong, do you have any dash warning lights on? It may be worth checking the height sensor control links as these were a common fail point on the earlier LS400 and I think the same system was carried over to the LS430.

Did you make sure you connected to the correct terminals for the Trac/ABS codes was the OD button pressed in as instructed.

This is some thing I would have checked before parting with the money, if it hasn't been done get it replaced as soon as, preferably yesterday! If the belt does go think replacement engine! If it does need replacing make sure the full kit is fitted and a new water pump.

Cheers Billy although that is for the later VVTI engine. If you are removing the throttle body get yourself a new gasket for the TB to plenum chamber. Leave the throttle pots attached to the throttle body once you have disconnected the plugs to them as they would need realigning if removed and refitted just try and avoid any cleaning fluid getting near them. One of the hardest parts is removing the water hose under the TB it's a bit tight in there but take your time, refer to your tutorial and you'll be OK.