steve2006

As you correctly say it points to the MAF or an induction leak between the MAF and intake so check everyting is tight, time will tell if the lights return.

A bit of searching can reveal loads of informations for the Lexus LS400,below is a link detailing the replacement of the serpentine belt and this resource has lots of other tutorials. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/maintenance/drivebelt.html The original Lexus service manuals sometimes appear on ebay or there are some good CD ROM versions around for a few $$$.

I have 1994 import LS400 and at 17 years old my hoses are in perfect condition and serviceable so why your mechanic has suggested changing them all I don't know,are they collapsed,leaking or falling to pieces? There are a lot of rubber components on and around the engine and to replace them all would be time consuming ( so expensive) and expensive to buy in the first place. Check the main coolant hoses yourself are they showing and signs of deterioration for example cracks in the rubber? Drive belts should be replaced at the recommended service intervals there are only 2 the serpentine belt and the timing belt of the 2 the timing belt is the most important as if it breaks it's basically new engine time. Other rubber components that do wear out are the motor and transmission mounts but again a visual inspection should determine if these are good or bad plus you would have noticed excesive engine movement should they have gone. It sounds like your mechanic is asking you to have unneccesary work done if in doubt seek a 2nd opinion.

Normally if you take the sender wire off the sender unit the fuel guage should read empty and f you earth/ground the wire it should read full.If this happens it would suggest the sender unit in the tank is faulty.If the guage still acts up it would be more likely to be the guage/instrument pod causing the problem

If this happened after you filled up with gas it may be that the sender unit float has stuck and has not fallen as the level in the tank drops,you could opening the trunk and giving the tank a thump to see if this will make the sender float drop down again.

And the 3rd one Billy? :D

Before buying parts at random,read the fault codes then you will have more of an idea. A faulty O2 sensor will not cause a misfire. If no codes are found a common misfire cause is one of the coil packs failing but again you will need to confirm before replacing.

The part description in the Lexus parts list says "Moulding Sub-Assy Quarter Outside LH" it looks like it comes complete with all fixings for the price. Part number is 75606-50020** (** is your color code)

Happy birthday Billy are you starting a Lexus rental business!

Although for the SC400 the diagram shows the same fuses as the LS400/Celsior http://www.lextreme.com/Lexbaseradiosc.pdf

Celsiors normally have the "Premium Sound System" fitted if you have an amplifier under the seat it should be a series 3 (October 1994 on). Not being funny here but have you pushed the volume control as this is normally the on/off switch for the head unit? My Celsior as I bought it in 2005. In 2011

I thought the same thing but it wouldn't explain the loss of the electrical items mentioned also. I would check all the fuses both in the engine compartment and under the dash but cannot see how washing the car caused the problem.

Or grab a paper clip and diagnose it yourself. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

1. Is there an immediate safety issue with driving the car, mostly in town lower speeds? Providing the upper ball joint doesn't come out of the arm completely which would result in the wheel folding under the car you should be OK in the short term although handling and braking mayl be affected. Replace as soon as possible. 2. Can anyone suggest internet sources where I can buy parts? Try looking on ebay.com if you want OEM try Sewell Lexus or otherwise try Google.com 3. How many labor hours are required to replace these parts? No more than 2 hours per side 4. Also any recommended sources to buy new hood lifts cheaply? Ebay.com http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=lexus+ls400+hood+struts&_sacat=See-All-Categories Please use the search facility for more specific information. A good resource is www.lexls.com/tutorials

Normal warm engine idle speed is around 650rpm when I turn on the AC the idle goes up to around 800rpm. I would assume there is some communication from one ECU to another to get the rpm to increase when the AC is on but how I don't know. If your AC has not been serviced for some time it wouldn't hurt to have it checked out and topped up if required before going any further.

As above there are adjustable thread rods on all the sensors which alter the ride height,link below gives the basic operation http://evansweb.info/2009/11/23/ls400-ride-height-sensor-repair PS there is a UK LOC if you wish to join :D

The belt has an autotensioner which is spring loaded and has a preset tension automatically adjusting the tension as the belt stretches,as you press down on the belt the tensioner will physically move giving the impression of excess play but perfectly normal,as others have said with the absence of belt noises there is unlikely to be anything amiss. If you look at the autotensioner you will see marks on it which should roughly align indicating the tension is correct.

There are two,one is a mesh filter located in the bottom of the PS reservoir and the other is in the power steering rack solenoid which can be detacted from the rack and gently cleaned.

I wouldn't let the dash issue put you off,if you can remove the cluster yourself ( step by step tutorial on www.lexls.com) and you can solder it costs less than $5.00 in parts or a little more if a local radio shop fits the parts (instuctions also online). Mirrors again a minor problem either with the supply or switch. I would look for a service history and remember the cam belt is due at 180,000 miles although on these engines a broken belt will not damage the engine.

I looked at the still picture before playing the video and thought that the engine had been fitted 90 degrees out then realised it's a side view. I would second SRK's opinion regarding the coils it has become a common failure. and listening to the engine it sounds like it's firing on 4 instead of 8,another good clue is to check the cats after a run and see if they are glowing red (be careful this can also damage the cats) Coils are cheap to replace. See this post as it was also the coil http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69809

I saw a similar situation on a GS300 where the AC worked but the compressor made a rattling noise and it was the clutch on the compressor,apparently just this part can be replaced to sort the problem.

Thank for letting us know,it's good to hear you got it sorted and you are still on the forum

Was the radiator and AC condenser removed to replace the timing belt? If so was the AC degassed before doing so and correctly reconnected and regassed after the job? There are a lot of possibles and causes.If the AC was OK before the timing belt job it should still be OK now.

I think the door autolock feature may be an option on the JDM version so it may be a hidden option.Mine is a 1994 JDM model and the doors automatically lock when the car's speed reaches 20mph.

Hello and welcome to the LOC I googled "Lexus Body work warranty" and came up with this assuming the same cover applies in the US. http://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/lexuscare/warranty-and-lexus-roadside-assistance/manufacturer-warranty.aspx It would seem you are correct in thinking it's a 12 year warranty on most bodywork for inside out rusting.