RDM

Well then, you might want to stop saying one thing on one occasion and then arguing the opposite on another. Don't blame me for quoting one of your memorable past posts that conflicts with the information you posted in this thread. That you posted completely conflicting information makes it look like you are trying to pick fights with people. And you used the word "stupid" to describe other people's opinions. Calling people "stupid" is not appropriate on Internet forums - automotive or otherwise - or in "real" life. And you have "flamed" people in past; it was inappropriate then and it is now. What has particularly caught my attention was that a member of another automotive forum - who happened to also have member name "RDM" - was reprimanded and apparently expelled (member name and all his posts deleted) in the past year or so for similar behavior. The content and tone of your posts on this forum seem similar to those from the banished RDM on the other forum. Are you the same person? I wouldn't know since you failed to name the forum in question. I browse a lot of forums, I moderate others, try being a little more vague with your suggestion though and I'll see if I can't grasp for straws to answer you. The only forums I've ever left that I recall were by choice. My usernames with most weren't related to the one here, so I can assume you're just guessing in the wind. Again. Big surprise. I have never argued anything opposite anything else. Period. Show me where you see this. I said in this thread that a shield over the alternator is a bad idea, and I still say it. And people still agree with it, yet you haven't attacked anyone else for their opinion. And my post you quoted didn't conflict with anything I've said, back then I had an issue and I resolved it, I just didn't fill the World in on my solution I later came up with, I didn't know I was obligated to do so. My power steering pump still works fine, the previous one would have too if the flush was more thorough. Trying to make an example out of me with half the information is further proof you've got some sort of agenda. And I don't pick fights. Stupid is an opinion, true, one that I may or may not use when it's appropriate. It's still an opinion. You have made nothing but blanket statements urging fact, none of which you can back up with said facts. You post in a way that makes other members feel your word is law here, and that your posts must be followed to the letter as you know more, do more, and are capable of more than anyone on here. There is no opinion from your posts, nor any room for one. That is far more inappropriate than me suggesting a frying pan wrapped around an alternator is stupid. If you have a chip on your shoulder because some other member was banned from another forum that's completely unrelated, take it up with that forum and whoever that person was. Continually trying to start things with me for whatever you feel is needed is petty, weak, and sad.

Mine does that too, the hydraulic cylinder that allows the parking brake pedal to rise up slowly starts to fail and allows it to stay partially engaged. I just stick my foot behind the pedal and pull it on up after releasing the handle. You can just remove the cylinder but then it 'snaps' up, you no longer have that slow, easy release you're used to.

Open the hood, look at the brake master cylinder, you'll see a lead coming off of it with a plug anchored to the back of the cylinder. Unplug it. The parking brake light still works, it's a dual light with a diode to isolate the two circuits, so if one signal is disconnected the other still works fine.

Definitely sounds like the charging lead is either not connected or it grounded out, blowing a fusible link.

Mine did that for a few months, it would come on full, dim, flicker, etc., completely random. I finally unplugged the brake fluid level switch as a test and it went out. The switch wears due to age and fluid corrosion, that's probably what has happened with you. I maintain my car and do the brakes as needed, so I just left it unplugged. Plus I check all fluids and such on a regular basis. Saves buying an new OE switch which is likely expensive.

You didn't answer my question as to why you have such a hard-on for me. It's clear you're the internet tough guy, your ego soars when you're hiding behind a monitor, but you're too chicken *BLEEP* to reply when you're called out for acting that way. How old are you, 12? I never responded again to that thread but there was still some old power steering fluid in the system, which was the culprit for the bearing noise. After a final flush the last pump I put on got quiet and has been fine ever since. I could have saved the second one had I put more effort into the flush but it appeared to be cleaned out good enough then. So, why would I "destroy evidence"? What has that got to do with anything? Seriously, whatever candle you're holding for me, it's creepy. Quit stalking my posts just to start a debate.

Can't see the wheels with a front on shot. maybe take a side view picture?

The dealer. Any dealer. Where else would you buy OE Lexus parts?

Funny how numerous other members agree with me, yet you only attack me. If you don't like my opinion, well, it's an opinion, nothing more. If you have some personal gripe with me, take it up with a private message instead of airing your problems in the open. You just look callous and vindictive when you do that. And if the design of the pump is 'flawed' as you say, why? You seem to be the expert, tell us all what Toyota did wrong and how you would correct it. I have a rebuilt pump on my car, going on five years old now. Not a drop has leaked since the day I put it on. Seems your theory is just that, a theory. I plugged the idle up valve on mine, eliminating that source of leakage, and the pump has never shown to be wearing or degrading. Now, I also maintain my own car and check things periodically, so if a leak was to develop I'd see it and fix it as soon as I could, if you choose to drive your cars until the problem is serious enough to leave you stranded, that's your problem. Certainly isn't mine. Your insurance may keep fluid leakage out, but it also keeps heat in. An alternator that's burned up from overheating isn't any better than one shorted out and full of fluid. I fail to see how you would think otherwise.

Again, agreed. Seems stupid to make a shield to prevent leakage when you can just fix the leak and never need a shield.

Since it's already off I'd go ahead and rebuild/replace. You'd be mad as hell to put it back on only to have it go out next week. If you want, I can take it with me tomorrow and drop it off a C&S Electric Monday AM, then you can pick it up anytime. I think they charge $135 for the higher output models. You can try Advance for a reman, but make sure they're listening. I just replaced a friend's last month and they not only gave her an ES250 alternator, but a used, core alternator.

Remove the idle up valve on the bottom of the pump after it's off and plug it. Then remove and plug the two vacuum hoses that stem off of it. You'll never miss the valve and a new one will just start leaking in a year or two anyway. This is the primary source of leakage from the pump as well as the cause for smoke during startup and a gummed up intake tract/throttle body. Once this is done there's no need to cover the alternator.

I'll sell it right back to anyone interested, as is, for $1000. :):)

If you cut the link right against the retaining nut, it should break free. You can also cut the nut half way through to weaken it, it should then break loose or just shear off.

Removing the alternator will help, but otherwise you just need to 'man up', the first time I removed mine it was OE torqued way beyond normal spec. Using a box end wrench doubled up to another can gain leverage if you can get one in place. The alternator is likely soaked a little so it's a good idea to have it cleaned up anyway.

Why would you think that? Locked or unlocked, there's no change. The draw on the battery from the security indicator would actually suggest leaving it locked creates more of a drain, but the amount is so negligible it would take months of sitting to effect the charging system.

I'll take it. I can pick it up Sunday after I borrow a trailer. Email me at projectrdm@gmail.com and we'll arrange it all, I don't get on here but once a day, but consider it sold. I've got cash in hand and have located a transmission already.

I may have a buyer, or I may but it myself. Can I come look at the car possibly tomorrow afternoon or Friday?

If you're replacing the endlinks, just cut them off. No need to unbolt them.

I've found that the over the counter mast assemblies are more generic to fit a wider range of vehicles, that sometimes eliminates the fitment of a particular model.

So you don't need locks, you need a key. The dealer is the only source to get a key to the OE lock set. If you no longer have the key and can't afford the OE replacement key, you'll need to remove the locks and then just buy a new set of locks/key, you can get McGard locks from numerous suppliers for half the price of the dealer units. There are a few techniques used to get the locks off. I won't disclose them though as this is a public forum, suggestions made to bypass theft deterrent items are typically frowned upon. But I know how very well, I lost my key last week and went through this too. It's a pain in the !Removed!.

Typically the compressor will only stay fully engaged with the fan speed on HI, and under partial throttle. Any lower fan speed settings and the compressor will cycle on/off, as well as full throttle where it disengages temporarily to reduce drag on the engine. If it's not doing that, have it checked.

The emissions control system on the 1st generation LS is archaic to put it nicely. If you choose to run without catalytic converters, you must use either a simulator to trick the ECU into thinking they're present, or add spacers and push the rear O2 sensors further out of the exhaust stream to reduce the O2 measurement, thereby letting the ECU know there's at least a small change in value between the primary sensors and secondaries. Both of these though are bandaids to correct the real problem, which is not have the converters installed. They sell numerous flanges online and you can cut your existing flanges off if need be, and there are plenty of weld in converters without flanges that you can adapt to make them work properly. It sounds like you just don't want to spend the money to do that, which is fine, but you're not going to correct the problem any other way.

You *may* be lucky and just be low enough on fluid to disallow gear engagement, most automatics have a failsafe that won't engage a drive gear if the fluid is too low. However, running for an extended period with low fluid will do damage and while you might can get away with topping the fluid after fixing the leak, there is internal damage to a degree already. No way to tell how much and how long it will last now without opening it up.

I ran a shop in Mableton for several years parting out cars and have shipped everything imaginable all over the country. Door panels are easily boxed and shipped, though the pricing is a bit high. You can get quotes online from UPS or FedEx to get an idea but always add a little more to ensure their pricing is accurate and you're not left paying out of pocket. Use Office Depot to ship UPS, they don't upcharge like the UPS Stores do, and they don't charge you handling fees either. PM me if you have further shipping questions or could use some help pulling parts. I've torn down three LS400s in my day.