jzz30

when there is load applied to a motor carbon seems to puff out the exhaust, like when doing a burnout you frequently see it

kewel the bottom side as well as the interior is very detailed. so when are you changing the lower ball joints?

how do you know that the alternator is not working?

oh yea forgot about thatone, it can misalign things and shutter.

a click means that the starter is not spinning at all meaning the motor doesnt spin nor does the alternator so i would rule the alternator out in this case.

well i did mine on the ground and well it involved me having to take the rack and pinion off to access the four bolts on each side, also i was rebuilding my rack so well i did it all at once. i guess you could access it from the wheel well.

hmmm... the trans shop probably just added a conditioner in the trans to soften up all of the seals in the trans and if that worked for 3000 miles then use it again like an oil change but eventualy your trans will probably go out meaning big big bucks.

wow both calipers were out? well i guess it happens ;)

you can put spacers inbetween the wheels and for tire size try a 255/35/18

like 99lsguy said the struts are gone, you will be surprised when you change them, and the ball joints are probably gone too. you also might want to change the swaybar bushing, when that wears out it makes an annoying clunking sound along with the lower ball joint.

if the rear wheel is covered in dust then its probably not the parking brake because the parking brake uses an inner drum brake so the dust is less prone to sticking to the wheels so here is my suggestion. if your rear brakes have not been changed before the pads could be worn to the point that it gets cocked to the side and gets stuck and doesnt return so change the pads.... another possibility is that the caliper is sticking so get it rebuilt or the valve body could be at fault. i would suggest goint through the pads first. in extreme cases the wheel bearing could be so worn that the whole wheel(+rotor) is rubbing the pads ( this happened on my LS with the front wheel bearings, the pads would wear out every 3 months)

alternator has nothing to do with starting but could lead to dead battery which can lead to no starting.

i did mine and posted pics of it somewhere in the gallery. the motor mounts are a dealer item. changing the mounts invovles taking the rack and pinion off and using an engine hoist and a jack to raise the motor to take off the mounts. big work, not an avid skill job so be ready

wow you did it the right way.... i am impressed

i hope you connected all of the wires that go to the starter. because your electrics check out. the solonoid clicks and thats the switch right? so if there is no power there all it will do is click........ maybe the big fat wire from the battery is no good? try check resistance........just a suggestion

there are some presses meant for doing this and another crude way is to just pound out the old bolt from the hub. when installing a new one that can be bought from parts stores like Napa you just pull the new bolt in with a nut . the bolt is usualy a couple of bucks, and it doesnt take long unless you have to take the hub off.

where is the trunk from? and do they make the 97+ spoiler?

changed mine just because i was redoing the whole front suspension i did it last (after all the bushings and things were changed) the car became smoother and quieter,...noticably. and its even easier to spin the wheel when the front tires are off the ground, meaning less stress to the drive train and better milage(slightly)

was the starter totaly rebuilt or partialy or new?

machine shops can make rubber pieces?

LEX: when taking the intake off there is some coolant that spills and that can get in the intake if not careful about draining coolant. and sc4 jumping usually doesnt work because jumper cables are usualy bad. i tried jumping a good battery to one of my cars and it didnt work so i had to pull out the battery and change it with the one i was jumping with and everything started up fine. (i was just too lazy to change out the battery first)

did you try and look at the top of the rack and pinion where the universal joint goes in?

battery charged? contacts good?

i feel the pain......i have been there too

hey its a neat (as in clean look) to put it and these cars were made for the japanese market where most people dont keep their cars for more than 6-8years. and most of the time they have less than 60k miles on them.