jzz30

after taking the caliper off the rotors are held in place with i think 2 phillips screws, dont try to fudge it with a #2 you also might want to find a 1/4in. socket and get a #3 bit and use it in the ratchet because there is more leverage.

i hope you have metric bolts well i believe the 2 caliper bolts up front are 17mm. i dont remember what the rear is but its either 14 or 17. and when taking off the rotor you need a #3 phillips screw driver, and dont forget to release the parking brake when taking off the rear rotors because inside the rear rotors are inner drum brakes for the parking brake. otherwise its the same as any other car. good luck!

well i had the TRAC light in my dash and had no idea what caused it so just took it to the dealer. after getting a 85 dollar bill and 2.50 for parts it was just a fuse. but this is a bit different from your problem. if you want to disable traction controll just pull the fuse. it is either in the engine compartment or by your foot in the kick panel.

down over here on the rock i live on we probably only have 1 refinery and maybe 2. so well i would assume its all the same but i filled up at 76 and well the car felt different... like noticeably and my milage went up too!

yea they have a set of masters. i lost mine or costco lost my key when i had my tires changed and well just went over and had them change it. it seems they dont even use your personal key in the trunk

well i fill up with shell most of the time but havent noticed that. anyway by law there isnt supposed to be sulfur in gas so i think if there is that public of a problem you should be able to got your money.

my bad i spelled it wrong its Arias pistons.

well Aries are good JE's of course, they will all be about the same price or you can use the TT pistons they are better than the GE's

it could be the fan controll unit

ok my bad again he wants to build a older GE so um yea after vvt-i the rods were a bit weaker. and but i would still change rods.

yea the pre vvt-i but when that kicked in it also can only hold about 400hp then it will let go. i know size doesent matter but well these were just a bit too small. even my friend which is a veteran tuner says that they are a bit too small to be carelessly making power on. so i would say dont skimp on rods.

adding to that there are far more first gens than any other becasue of the introductory price was so low and i believe it was sold for the longest time before a model change

since you are building it you should go ahead and change the rods too because you dont want to do all that work and have the rods give out so get some crowers for about a grand. and i should mention that the GE rods are thinner then a b16a rod from a honda.

but i think he means response while going 90.

well i guess so huh... well thats all good news for me! because the sound is soo tempting. i think i am going to get both the 1j and 2j, because you can find older 1j's for a couple hundred bucks.

but dont those people who do the 1j to 2j use just the bottom end of the 2j so the ecu doesnt change? but if it is the same then that will be great great news for me because i like the sound of the 1j more than the 2j and i can change between the two.

try and switch the etc button to pwr. that will make the trans a bit more shifty

spinning that big fan faster means big load on the engine. i dont think it is neccesarily good for it. you should call the dealer and see how much the fan costs. dont be surprised about how much though

never driven a Q but its competitor was the LS and the Q is a bit more sportier than the LS so i guess its in between the SC and the LS. now by throttle response do you mean it doesnt down shift? i do notice that the pedal is alot stiffer than most cars past cruising speed of 60 but i havent noticed bad response because i just stomp and well going 50-60 it usually goes all the way down to second.

wow! you mean i can use a 2j ecu for a 1j? or am i still not getting it here? the wiring harness on the 2j has to be modified to match wiring with the sc body.

it is actually a common problem on these cars. i dont know about your ac though ;)

install oil feed and torque to 9 ftlbs using the human torque wrench torque high pressure side bolt to 51 ftlbs install the pully and torque the nut to 32 ftlbs and you are done!!! now all you have to do is slap that baby back in. i found that over the years of ATF contact and heat the hoses from the oil resovoir and to the rack have hardened and now is a good time to order them and changed them too along with the two hoses that come off of the idle up valve right off of the high pressure feed.

replace seat o-ring replace highpressure feed o-ring replace oil feed o-ring install seat this is optional but measure the spring length minimum length is 36mm install spring and valve and high pressure side bolt install rotor housing making sure the shaft goes in to the rotor, and use a press (or a hammer) to push in the rotor housing. becareful not to damage the o-ring while pressing in the housing, and then install the wave washer in its grooves install new o-ring in backplate. NOTE: the rebuild kit comes with instructions that say where 3 of the o-rings go. pay attention to that. theninstall back plate and torque to 29 ftlbs

i scavenged 2 nuts and welded them together then used a slide hammer to pull out the shaft. a nut and washer would work too then i used an extension and tapped the pump rotor out with my hand but a hammer may be needed if more force is needed but a press is recommended here it it doesent come out by hand. and be sure to have your hand covering the back side to catch the rotor or else it will be a big mess drive the shaft seal out with a screw driver and hammer give it a good solvent bath and make it all clean, then dry it off with compressed air or air dry. i cleaned it agian with simple green because i feared that it might not be good if the o-rings touched the solvent or residue. then coat all of the inside up with ATF. here is the pump rotor and housing. i found it good not to take it fully appart as it will be alot of mess with the rotor plates. there are 2 o-rings on each of the 2 side plates. i found that the o-rings were rock hard and i had to cut it with an xacto blade. here is the o-ring i had to cut and you can kind of tell that it has become brittle over the years of heat cycling and ATF. after washig the pump housing and coating of ATF inside place the new shaft seal in and use a 22mm socket to drive it in. using a press (or a hammer) drive the shaft back in replace snap-ring

take off the 17mm pully nut and the pully. i actually loosened the nut on car while there was still belt tension then take off the two 12mm bolts that hold on the oil feed (thats one of my favorite wrenches and its snap-on. one of 2 i own ) that is the high pressure oil feed to the rack. that is a 27mm bolt, inside there is a valve and a spring. this is what is inside on the other side of the pump there is a snap ring that has to be removed temporarily install a 6 by 1.0mm bolt and pull the seat out with pliers then take the snap ring off of the main shaft side then take the four 14mm bolts out of the backplate and remove dont loose the wave washer the seal kit