jzz30

yea you can just use a wire or a paper clip or something.

it depends on if you plan to mod or not, but if yourjust going to keep it stock then i would just buy an oe set up unless you like a particular clutch from past experiences, like i like ACT for example because every car i have driven with an act clutch grabs closer to the floor but the peddal becomes a bit stiff. so driving in trafic kind of sucks. but most likely you will have the least problems with a oe set up, and dont forget to get a pilot bearing and have the flywheel resurfaced.

does your rpm go all the way to the red? if not try check if your gas pedal is on right. i had this happen many times and i thought the pedal kind of felt funny too. after checking the pedal i guess wore out a clip that keeps the pedal from falling off to the left.

yea you can find a socket that size or try go to a parts shop and they usally have a punch set, and i think it could also be 34mm because when i did that i remember that the punch could have been a hair bigger.

where do i get one and how long is the waiting list?

happened to me about 6 months ago. and i had to disconnect the battery. the plunger on the solenoid is just fuseing to the contact because of high resistance. if you take the starter appart you will see pitting on the contacts. and its a good thing you have the i6, taking the starter out will be fairly easy, and you can just get it rebuilt usualy within the day if you take it early for about 100 bucks.

definitely get a new one just order it online where you can see a blown up diagram of the part you need. i changed mine about 2 years ago.

could be... why not rebuild it?

vacume leak?

so you have plans of turbo?

i would get a 98 and up if you dont mind spending the extra. the 98 and up came with a 5 speed auto which is just better and its just newer.

dont forget your motor and trans mounts, along with your bushings

yea and the car hits 60 in second gear. so um overdrive off and stuff like that doesnt even matter.

yea i had vibration up the yin yang. i changed all of the idler bearings and pullies in front of the engine, and all of the suspension and finally the motor and trans mounts and that solved everything. and my car got alot smoother because of the parts change;)

your heater core could be leaking. i dont know how much it costs though

i didnt have a press so i just took the hubs out and then took it no napa where they changed them out for 100 bucks

yea frp stands for Fibre Reinforced Plastic so i think its preatty much the same thing.. well theres gfrp which is glass fibre reinforced... well you get the idea. but if anything urethane is best for durability.

yea you can either disconnect the battery for like 2 minutes or you can pull the EFI fuse for the same time and that way you can keep all of your settings in the car.

92 lex your car must be smooth as new!

actually when mine went out there was quite a bit of white smoke and raw fuel smell, and i only had the car on for about 5 min and the car sounded like it was hot. like i turned off the car and the heat shields were crackling( nutorious with the sc) and if you read some manuals it says that back firing can cause cats to fail. and this ignition problem is prety much a constant back fire or just a fire in the exhaust.

assuming that your rotors arent warped you should check your trailing arms up front and rear. most likely the rear is gone. i did a trailing arm bushing replacement tutorial in the tutorial section, some of your questions may be answered there.

i dont know if this can be adjusted but less caster degree in front will give you more steering, but it does become finiky and hard to drive meaning more attention is needed at all times when driving. there are all sorts of other suspension settings to look at depending on how you want the car to handle. toe in in front would mean that you will have sharp turn in in a corner, but the car would be finiky at the exit of the corner and the opposite with toe out, the car is a bit more finiky in the turn in, but coming out its easier to handle. but under most driving conditions i dont think you would feel much of a difference. these settings apply more to track racing where the car is closer to its limits. and the thing to remember about suspension is that it is about a total balance, what is done to the front affects the rear in some way and vice versa.

no everything jsut plugs in but something about the wiring isnt right or something and the tail lamp out light in the dash lights up, but everything works fine. its just annoying to look at.

oh yea just to test it try take off the components belt and spin the clutch. it could also be that the clutch is worn out and thats whats making the noise and not the bearing. thats what was up with mine. and you should change it out as soon as possible because i had a friend that had a clutch bearing lock up on him and it ripped the front of the compressor off where the clutch rides on.

i changed one out on my previa van its about 120 bucks i think. you need a compressor clutch holder tool to take the main bolt off and snap ring pliers to take the rest of the clutch off. its fairly simple, and most likely you can and have to do it on car so you dont have to discharge gas.