jzz30

he is sending it to some company in florida to get it reprogramed or something because it stalled out on him once and apparently its a common problem on 95s

have you looked at c-west? they are about a grand i think

amature... hurry up and take it out :chairshot:

thats what i did.i used the same ballasts from a ls430 and just kind of made the burners fit. the light is ok but like the item description said, a burner that sits at the focal point is best.

lol with the cost of doing such a think you might want to think of say leasing a 430 or somthing like that or just buy a used one

its most likely your trans mount, and possibly your motor mount also but more the trans mount. try change it first its only like 60 bucks and only takes like 20 min to change.

its fairly simple but not its really tight and tricky. you need a universal jointed 14mm. and extensions. these are to take off the aluminum sub mounts. jack stands and a jack to raise the motor. dont raise the motor too much as this can rupture hoses, ac lines and intake flex hose. i actually ripped the flex, and had a minor leak in my ac line but quickly sealed it with JB weld hehe.. you have to loosen the 4 bolts on each side through cavities in the wheel well. i have changed motor mounts on both the LS and SC and unfortunately the sc is alot harder to do.

fuel pump computer?

getting itchy i see... oh well theres always next winter right?

hmmm....yea....like shaggz said the pulley did just fall right in to my hands...and i also noted that i used the serpentine belt tension to help with losening the nut. seasoned mechanic??? i work on cars when needed, and im 20 going to college... i hope i didnt rub off as a veteran mechanic. :whistles:

frame damage meaning uni-body is tweaked sorry about the news.

do you smell raw fuel coming out the exhaust? and is the car driveable?

its debateable but we layed down 370 hp on an IS at our shop with no problems and its been 4 months. and i have heard people have it hold up to about 450hp

unless your going to spend the money and get all of the machine work done i would just not even take the motor appart because the motor will easily make your desired hp by just upgrading turbo, if you do go higher on comp. i think 9.0 is best, because you will have a bit more torque when you dont have boost stock is 8.5.

turboing the existing motor is cheaper than doing a swap in some cases it may cost the same and the motor will have more power than if you swap but if you swap there is more potential from there compared to the na motor which would need the motor to be worked on.

i would consider a newer sc if your trading a 99 civic. you can pick up a 95-97 for about 10-15 grand i dont know how much the car your looking at is but anyway if your set on the car look for any suspension noise, when you reverse and brake listen for a knocking sound (if it knocks your lower arm bushings are gone) look for leaks from the power steering pump that may cause the alternator to go out. that should be the particulars.

he said about 45 min. away from LA

i was really going to go buy it but i chnaged my mind and got a new s2000;)

the supra turbo doesnt just fit on. the bolt pattern on the head is different.

lookin good!

i dont know what weight but you just drain it and then fill untill it starts to dribble out of the fill hole

i just use some good old mothers metal polish, in the red can...

personally i like how the 1j sounds better than the 2, its more of a higher revving sound thanks to its shorter stroke. other than that its just a matter of tourque mainly, and then there is peak HP, along with where the power is. i believe the pre 97 1j's had a more linear power curve where peak power was made near redline where the 2j makes it a little lower and drops off.

i changed mine because i was replacing all my front suspension and that was the last thing i did and i did notice a difference over the old bearings( that werent worn or anything) the car rolled smoother.

its probably a V- speed.