jzz30

buy some bridgestone SO-3's or RE050's and get the car alligned for more turn in response, it has to do with messing with the front toe of the car.

check if the ECT is on PWR this happened to me once on a friends and that was the case becasue i think that the PWR function keeps the trans in a lower gear. also it might be that over drive is off, but more likely the ECT is on PWR

there are actual torque specs to how freely the ball joint can turn but well thats kind of hard to measure, what i feel is more important is getting channel locks and trying to push down on the stud part to see if the ball joint actually moves, if it does then the arm has to be replaced because that is where the noise would be coming from.

he seems to not want the feedback...

usually the arm bushings and ball joint can last an easy 100k miles mine went out at about 120-130k miles. so i say just stick them in and get the car alligned

well the fact that the road tries to tun your wheel means that your tire is doing its job and are good! low profile tires have stiff sidewalls and provide feedback, the higher performance the tire this will happen (in most tires) and grip is also very good but if you dont like this as much get a lower performance tire, where the sidewall is softer and most likely there is less grip.

make sure when you weld it you use a welder with at least 200 amps, and blast it at full current, actually 250 would be ideal for blasting gears and stuff like that and make sure the surface is free of oil

yea after a while the condenser(?) in the dash collects dust and well if you have ever taken one out you will know but its preatty gross and black, but yea that will collect the moisture and that will cause your mildewey smell. the remedy would be to change the condenser(?) (the thing in your dash) and or the filter, i would try to change your filter first becasue that is alot cheaper.

yes there are forged and cast rims, the cheap ones are cast and the majority come from china or sumthin like that, the good stuff is forged that comes from japan. manufacturing proccess will determine price as well as supply and demand and brand. the benefits of forged rims would be weight and strenght. if your going to run a low pro tire forged or not you hit a big pot hole the rim will bend, how much it would bent would be the difference between forged and cast. also forged rims are less likely to crack in these cases becasue of the stronger bonds in the metal. the upper end "race" wheels are most always forged, usually 1 piece but there are 2 and 3 piece wheels that are forged too. now to the cast rims, gravity cast rims are the cheapest and most crude way of manufacturing a rim (those are the $100 rims) there are many other ways of casting rims, like vacum casting which is better, i dont even know half of them, there are also rims that are cold worked in to shape which is better than cast but not as good as forged. cold worked meaning shaped in to a rim while the metal is cold kind of like stamping steel. the benefits of this is that the metal used is usually good close to forged quality, these are probbably the inbetween priced rims. well thats all i can spit up hope this helps

oh wow! they sell the LCA bushings from 97+!!?! thats a good thing! well if you want to change them now is the time to do it and the upper arm bushings dont really wear out at all. it really only keeps the hub from twisting under breaking other stresses dont seem to affect it that much so i would just leave it. as for which bushing just go oem daizen bushings require greasing periodicaly or every hard rain, they will start to sqeek.

lexus doesnt sell the bushings alone. thats why you need to change the whole arm. if i were you i would just throw everything on as is only becasue there is low mileage.

like he said...

probably the reason why the part numbers change between the years is the rubber compound between the years and between the 300 and 400. so the arms will probably fit but just a different ride.

clean your battery terminals, and if that wont work, try having the battery tested if that checks ok then its your starter. your interior accesories dont draw that much current so nor do your lights, if your lights are dim that means your battery is totally dead. your starter can draw upwards of 80 amps but its more like 120, compared to your 7 amp head light thats alot more. but in anycase if the battery checks out its your starter solenoid contacts. just get it rebuilt. it should run about a 100 bucks and its fairly easy to take out of the car yourself.

the later model SC's might have the same brakes

i think you need to take appart the whole rack to do that.

yea or if you want a 4 piston caliper without the supra brake price you can buy 2nd gen brakes and rotors but you might need to run wheel spacers so the rim clears the caliper.

check your iginition stuffs or try and swtich the wires from the other side and see if the symptoms transfer or stay on the side

trans mounts can be replaced by getting under the car and unbolting the tranny mount/brace to the frame but you need a second jack to support the trans then unbolt the mount from the brace and the trans itself, total of like 12 nuts and bolts, and it takes half and hour at most. as for the engine mount its a fairly difficult job to do because its tight in there and the bolts are tight bau besides that its jsut time consuming. you need to take off the front tires and unbolt the mount from the bottom first then go it from the side and start unbolting the aluminum submounts whiile the engine is on a jack(prefeably jacked where the engine meets the trans) then you kind of have to fit the mounts through to change over the new mounts to the aluminum submounts and put it all back together. if you attempt to do this i would highly suggest getting a 14mm universal or flex socket, using a universal joint just doesnt give you enough room. also you need to unbolt the AC compressor because you might break the hoses, and you need to watch out how much you lift the engine because you can over stretch some hoses, especially power steering hoses from and to the pump which harden and crack over the years, and also you need to pay attention to coolant hoses.

it became smoother on start up and the engine stopped vibrating the whole car. as for labor rates, i couldnt tell you becasue i did it my self...

if its not the tire it could be the trans mount.

if you had your starter rebuilt then most places test it before they give it to you so i wouldnt worry. and yea you might get a check engine if you turn on your car with a buch of things disconnected

cats melted and clogged?

good news!! since you have a 300 you can do it yourself! might take a few hours but you can do it! and well its most likey the solenoid contact and you should just take it out and get it rebuilt. it should be about a $100 bucks.

could be a combination of things