first off i would like to say that the H is a neat car to drive( jsut test drove one on saturday) the sales guy said that you get better milage under stop and go city driving. on the free way the mileage is worse. like cruznroadking wrote...
with the 1.5j doesnt the displacement become a tad over 3000cc? i read somewhere that it becomes something like 3040 or something minor like that.... just random info...
motor mout cost i think is about 100 bucks a pop? and trans mount is about 50 bucks. most of the vibration that you can feel comes (i think) from the trans mount. where the trans smashes the trans mount and the trans vibrates almost directly against the sub mount to the chassis. plus its alot easier to change and cheaper than the motor mounts. you can seriously change it in 15 minutes or less.
definitely change the inner tie rods if you can jiggle the tire, while your at it just change your tie rod ends too along with ball joints, and sway bar bushing.
i just like the 1j more because of that higher revving hollow sound that it has... but yea the torque and power of the 2j is killer
mike:
867whp on c16? how much boost are you runnin?
great to hear! thats enough power to smash your face in to that initial smile when you first feel boost along with temporary blindness^^
no i think they both cost the same... let me pull up a price list.
97-00 FULL BODY UPDATE LIST Description Part Number List Price
front bumper cover 52119-24914 315.64
front grill insert 53114-24020 104.33
front absorber 52611-24030 48.57
front-left foglight 81220-24040 143.07
front-right foglight 81210-24040 143.07
left body rocker panel 75851-24900 236.37
right body rocker panel 75852-24900 236.37
rocker panel clips 75868-24020 1.82
rear bumper cover 52159-24905 324.82
rear-left quarter panel 76973-24902 88.72
rear-right quarter panel 76974-24902 88.72
rear-left retainer 52587-24010 13.45
rear-right retainer 52586-24010 13.45
left tail light 81560-24070 204.20
right tail light 81550-24070 204.20
rear spoiler 76871-24904 433.88
yea it really helps if you have it. at first i just had a universal joint adapter but it didnt quite do the trick so i had to just get the 14mm universal.
and when you pick up the motor be sure to look at hoses and things. in fact i might even be a good idea to just unbolt the compressor from the motor just so you dont damge those lines
i jacked it up right at the tranny case but the oil pan is also very strong also. as long as you put a piece of wood in between its fine...in fact i think i did that after finding that jacking the motor up from the tranny was kind of hard.
its a steering bushing i changed mine they are mounts to the rack. its two round rubber bushings that deteriorate and my symptoms were as you described and even worse when braking and also when you turn the steering wheel the car would initaly turn in and then strighten out and you need to turn more.