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jzz30

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Everything posted by jzz30

  1. if where ever you live tests for emmissions then keep them on.
  2. i dont know if they have stainless piping but Napa has mandrel bends in aluminized steel. you can ask if they have stainless... also it doesnt cost that much.
  3. honestly for a grand you cant go wrong! i wouldnt mind picking it up if he lived in hawaii haha!
  4. i dont think they ever came with the option but a supra TT will fit with driveshaft mods i think... maybe jibby can chime in and help. otherwise just get a TRD LSD its probably adjustable so you can tone down the clutch noise
  5. try some magnaflows or borlas and get them on fast!
  6. yes its normal for it to shift continuously. but if that seems to be the culprit of the noise then change it. just to make sure you can tun on the car for a bit with the belt off to make sure its not anything else inside the timing belt cover. of course you will get some warning lights but you can ignore them.
  7. the majority of the people here are going to say that lexus is better. why? hmmm....www.lexusownersclub.com....try going to a mercedes form and ask the same what do you think they are going to say? yup u got it! but seriously nothing beats japanese cars in general.
  8. actually taking your starter/alternator to get rebuilt is the best option. it cost probably about 100-150 bucks depending on the place you go to but you still retain your factory stuff and its alot better than parts that are made who knows where
  9. take the accessory belt off and spin each pully by it self any thing thats not smooth will be a squeaker
  10. i guess its kinda like changing one cap and rotor on one side huh? well great to hear it was that and not something more critical
  11. i dunno but i guess ur not looking for oem wheels huh? maybe some IS350 wheels would be good. they are 18inch and run about $1000 im guessing cuz thats what most oem wheels with tires run with usally less than a thousand miles
  12. well if one is leaking then the other side went through the same heat cycles and age so i would guess its safe to say that it could be leaking too.
  13. you should resurface the rotors if you havent done so when you changed pads
  14. my trunk seal looked just fine but that was the culprit
  15. yea i used a slide hammer to do that. i guess i didnt mention or lexls didnt mention. in the tutorial section there is almost the same write up. another way you might be able to do it would be to tie a preferably a cable or maybe metal wire and tie it to the shaft somehow and to something solid and just pull at it so that it creates kind of a slide hammer action.
  16. i would change brake fluid. its always good to change brake fluid. it could save alot of money down the road by changing it every year or so.
  17. no you dont need to bead it! on the flat surface the rubber will seal but on the corners you just need the dab of silicone becasue the rubber gasket cant seal it as well. the it came like that form the factory so keep it that way. you will just be puting in wasted effort if you go back and take everything appart and seal something thats not leaking!
  18. yea the ball joints are taper fit so if you shove it in to the knuckle hard enough it will not rotate while tightening.
  19. i think the LS valve is part of the PS pump? maybe not but i think i tried to replace this and i didnt do it because of that on my LS but i did it on my SC
  20. did you resurface the rotors? oh and sometimes that permatex stuff makes things worse. that sturff is usually used when there are no squeel shims.
  21. how do you look at the rings with a scope? seems like a buch if lies to me
  22. maybe it could be the rubber coupling for the driveshaft?
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