spiller91ls

Your wires are bad, remove the wire covers on the valve covers and at night time, in the dark, lightly spray the wires with some dish soap and water mix, if you can see the wires lighting up then the insulation broke down on them and it's time to get new wires.

actually you don't need to upgrade your master cylinder, since you already have disc brakes. your master cylinder will move enough fluid to work what you are going to up grade to, unless you are going to be putting some 16" brembo's or wilwood brakes. chances are that your current brakes pads are too hard for what you are using them for or you have your foot on the brake all the time.

you can buy brand new ones for $62 a piece from www.summitracing.com from and rear

what ever you do do not spray any type of lubricant on your rubber bushing, all it will do it break the outer surface of the rubber down, and then you will have bigger problems. The one big reason that the passenger side lower bushings go out on our lexus is the power steering starts leaking on them. Take it to a car wash and spay the dirt and grim off them, that is about all you can do unless you have polyurethan bushings installed. If you don't belive it, go ahead and spray some WD40 on them, just be ready to have the replaced in the near future.

that pulsation could be from loose wheel bearing, just jack up each tire and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and see if there is any movement. If there is than you have loose wheel bearing. Usually you can feel it when you come to a stop sign real slow and the front end feels like it is moving up and down. as far as the breaks go to autozone and get a set of Performance Friction Carbon Matallic pads, you will not be able to wear them out and they are way better than anything that toyota makes, my jeep has 80,000+, may ford torino has a set on them from 1994, and my ls400 has over 40,000 miles on them. I just wish they made a set for the rear of the Lexus

last month (june) my check engine light came on when I started my car (91ls400). I stopped the engine, lifted the hood and gave a quick visual, went inside got my repair manuel and proceded to see why the light came on. Code 4-1, open or short detected in throttle position circuit. I started the car and drove around the block to see what it would and the light went out. since then it has done it several time in the last two months. This last monday the light came on when I was driving and the car lost all power, had no throttle response and the transmission shifted very soft. Took it back home, and removed the sensor to see if it was ok internally, everything check out in its circuit. (a new one cost $139 from checker auto). hooked it back up and reset the sensor according to specs from the manuel. The only thing I could figure out is the whether pack connector was breaking contact, I had tightned the pins to fit tighter. the car use to surge at 37-40 MPH, like the transmission was locking and unlocking the converter. now its drives smooth after reseting the sensor. ( by the way the transmission uses the TPS for when and how hard to shift to the next gear). I guess if any of you have this kind of problem, like the trans is surging then you might have this problem in the near future

you need to blead the air out of you cooling system, especially after you changed everything. Take the plug of the thermistat housing and use that to fill the engine, also remove the drain plugs on each side of the engine to try and get rid of all the air in the block, when you finally think you have it all out, start the engine and with the thermistat plug off and the resivoir cover off, let the engine warm up and it will spit the rest of the air out, just when you get clear flow out of the thermistat, put the plug back on and fill the resivor up and you should be done purging the air.

The tire that I run, and had them put on when I purchaces the car (91 ls) in April 2003 are BFGoodrich Comp T/A's 225/60ZR15 (96W). as you can see these are W rated. The car had 152000+ miles on it when I purchased it, and it now has a little over 188000 miles on it. The tires have never been rotated, mainly since I don't belive in it, and also because they are directional tires. So far the only tire that needs to be replace is the right rear, the other three still have over half of there thread on them. I'll probably just buy two new one's for the rear and put the right rear on the spare. By the way these tires cost around $130 each. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. STOP PUTTING CHEAP TIRES ON YOUR EXPENSIVE CARS. The only downside to these tires is they are very noisy on certain types of roads, and are sticky enough that you will never make you car squeal the tires again.

one tracking problem that is not car or tire related, is that new roads and mainly two lane road are built with the center being higher that the outsides of the road to help keep the rain off the road which will make your car drift to the right. If you can and the road is clear try and get on the other lane or just pass another car slowly and see if the drift goes to the left.

I had just recently installed a alpine deck into my 91 ls, I got the dash kit and wiring harness adapter from www.sfxaudio.com, paid around $50 for everything. as far as the amp, i'll probably install a alpine M350 mono and replace the factory speaker also. One of my bulbs on the a/c control also went out when I installed my deck, and got a replacement from the local toyota dealership, paid $5 for just the one, you will probably have to remove the burned one so they can see which one to replace it with.

jack the front of your car up so that both wheels are off the ground, then with the engine not running (off), the steering pump cap off, and some rags or cardboard under the car, turn the wheel 3 or 4 time lock to lock, this will purge the air out of the pump and steering linkage, don't try is without getting the tires off the ground or you will probably have to replace the steering linkage afterwards.

it's not a hard job to do, the hard part is getting a hold of a set of shims to do it. all you need is a can of compressed air, the kind for cleaning computer keyboards, the spring compression tool, and the set of shims to do the job. you use the compressed air to pop the shims out after you compress the spring after measureing the gap. replace it with the proper sized shim and move on to the next spring. If you can get a lexus repair manual it has a section in there on how to do the job right, but you still need to get a hold of the shims.

That whining noise is about just right for a Lexus, I just turned mine on for the first time this weekend when I was in Phoenix and it seemed to make less noise than it did last year. maybe the oil sitting really soaked into the compressor. I also converted it last year to R-134a. sounds like you got a really low milage car for a 92, good deal

the amp is in the trunk, behind the panel to the gas tank.

Pull one or both of the timing belt covers off the top of the timing belt housing and see if the belt is wet or has a rust looking coating on it. It won't hurt to run the engine with them off so see if it starts throwing coolent off them. the weep hole actually drains off to the drive side of the pump. if you do the work yourself, it shouldn't cost you more then $400 to change the pump, belt, and pulleys, and maybe two days of work. IF you have a friend who is a mechanic, get him to print you the directions from there online shop manuals. I can't remember the name the manuals but they are way better then the lexus books, I'll see if I still have a copy of them and try and get them online.

I typically get around 600 miles per tank, and this last trip I made I got 26.7 mpg. one thing that I think a lot of the lexus owners might be basing there milage on in actually trying to use the fuel level gauge as a reference, and the only thing that can be used is the low level light ( you have 5 gallons left when the light goes off). this is usually how many miles I have for each mark on the guage. 3/4 full - 120 miles 1/2 full - 200 miles at around 3/8 full - 340 miles 1/4 full - 400 miles empty mark 530 miles low level light goes on around 1/8 mark so try and run your tank down to the low level light and fill it up to the top of the filler neck and use that as your reference. this up coming weekend I'll be making my once a month 540 mile round trip from Silver City, New Mexico to Pheoinx, Arizona, and I just got myself a digital camera, I'll take pictures of the guages to you can see some actuall proof of this kind of milage,

the gas companies have probably changed there formula and added alchohal, metonal or ether, none of these which are good for fuel systems, Drive out to rural areas out ther in Texas and see if the fuel doesn't contain those addatives. they do this at this time of year when the wheather changes.

I also have a 91 ls, and i got my books tru www.books4cars.com, took them around 3 weeks to get the books sent to me

91 ls400, 177000 miles, 26.5 mpg. I normally drive with my foot on the floorboard. Drive with your right foot doing the gas and the left foot working the brake, drive as smoothly as possible. whenever you get behind the wheel, assume everybody is a idiot, alway drive in the front of a pack of cars or in the back of them, never drive in the center with them, you have no time to react to a accident.

Luckily here in southwest New Mexico we don't have that bad of a snow problem like you people up north. my best defense against snow is my 89' jeep wrangler with 4" lift with 31" bfg mud-terrain tires which is my daily driver, my 91 ls is for weekends.

I currently run 225/60 r15 on my 91 ls, and the ride is very good. The only thing is my tires are BFGoodrich comp T/A's Z rated tires which have a very stiff sidewall, and they do make a little more noise than your average tire. they also stick like hell and i still haven't been able to make them squill around a corner.

There are two drain valves on both sides of the engine block, you have to remove the plastic cover from the bottom of the car to get to them, also you fill the engine with coolent from the fitting where the thermistat housing is( the fitting on top).

This last sunday I went and shoot a match in Pheonix, AZ. Trip from Silver City NM to Pheonix was 262.8 miles, and round trip was 528.1 miles. Did this on one tank of gas, total gas used was 20.173 gallons. This works out to 26.178 mpg. by the way it took me 3.5 hours to go the first 262.8 miles, that includes slowing down tru Duncan, Safford, Bylass, Globe, Superior, all in arizona.

You might want to check with Lexus if your vehicle is still under warrenty with them, to see if putting 20" tires and wheels will void your powertrain warrenty. right now GM will void the warrenty if you have 20" or bigger on any vehicle that didn't come with them from the factory.

what that is, is the box that controls your keyless entry