Mike523

Thanks - Fading issues aside . . . . . were the materials at the time the exact same color? You know, I probably shouldn't use the word exact . . . . substantially the same color?

Hey all, I have a crack in the center of the glove box door and wanted to ask if the gray from a 91 will match my 92 exactly? Another member is parting out his car and said his is in great shape. Thanks Mike

The pedal comes off quite hard and goes back on the same way. I used a softheaded mallet to pop it back on after getting the crud out of the carpet underneath the pedal. If that does not do it, you probably have fractured plastic receivers. I would get a new pedal rather than try to repair. Good Luck!

Sorry, yes it's a 92. I have a manual and I'll look to see what the other end of the cable looks like, where it is and how hard it is to get to. Maybe I messed up the other end of the cable when I removed the valve. Thanks!! Mike

I have no heat in the cabin. I just finished replacing the starter, rotors, timing idler pulleys, front crank shaft seal . . . . . . I did remove the heater valve on the firewall, cleaned it & reinstalled it during my mini overhaul. With the temperature set high, the cable won’t push out to open the valve. If I manually remove the cable and open the valve, the heat is there. All lines off the valve are hot with coolant. When the climate control is set on Auto, it won’t start the fan when the coolant is cold, so that’s still working normal. I’m assuming that it is not a coincidence that it is not working after having so much of the top end of the engine apart. What do you guys think?

FYI Here's the site where you can get rebuilt injectors. http://www.a-1injectors.com/inj/buynow/50010.htm The following site is where I'm sending mine to be tested, cleaned & repaired. Most places wanted $25 an injector, this one's only $11. http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html Email rich@cruzinperformance.com Mine total came to $99.30, that's a lot better than new ones for $180 a piece! Hope this helps someone. Mike

When I removed the fuel injectors from the intake manifold, the insulating piece that covers most of the tip, were gone. They’re very brittle. The donut type seal that sits on the insulating cap are very hard and melded together with the insulating cap. My Lexus part’s guy told me that the cap is part of the injector and cannot be purchased separately. !%!@#$!@#$ THAT’S CRAZY, I CAN’T BUY NEW INJECTORS JUST TO GET THOSE CAPS!! Does anyone know where I can get new caps? Help!

Thought you all might like to know that the valve clearance on a 92 with 101,000 miles are within specifications. The intake were all on the low end while the exhaust, were on the high end but, again, within specs. That made my day, as the shims are $13 a piece x 32 valves = ouch! Hope this helps someone thinking about the need to look into that on their car.

No, not yet. I have the motor tore down to the water pump and starter and waiting on parts.

Yes, I will.

Jim Walker wrote back & said he doesn't fix 90-92 clusters. I have two problems with mine. 1st the tach needle is only half lit & 2nd, my tach became sporadic, kind of floating, not making it up to the real rpms, then floating back down rather than being crisp. Found two people on ebay, one wrote back and can’t do it, the other wrote back to say he could fix both needles. Well, that’d be great if I needed both needles fixed, idiot. I spoke with someone at dashusa.com. He said they’ll fix the needle and all the other connections that normally go bad, but he’s not sure that the tach problem is part of the cluster assembly. He thinks it may be a different problem. So guys, what else could be going on with the tach? It’s now totally dead, doesn’t move.

Thanks!!

I remember reading about someone fixing 1st gen. instrument clusters. My tach is dead and half the tach needle is dark. I remember someone talking about a guy you can mail your cluster to and he’ll fix it. Anybody done that? Should of thought of this two weeks ago, but then I didn’t know how deep it was going to get.

I had similar symptoms with my 92. It turned out to be a funky cell and it passed most of the tests. The load test is where it showed itself. My conclusion was that this car freaks out without a good battery. At least swap a battery from another car to completely rule out the battery.

I have had similar problems with my 92 with 101,000. About three years ago I rebuilt or should say installed a new seal kit in the power steering pump and all was well until I couldn’t keep the pump quite and finally decided to find out where the fluid was going. I just assumed that it was the pump again but after investigating closely, found the power gear assembly on the rack to be leaking badly. Anyway, I decided to go with a new pump, new high-pressure line and new rack. Clean out the low-pressure line and the whole system is new. I’ll have the car another 3 years and may give it to my daughter so, the car could be in the family for quite a while. I may have damaged the pump as it ran noisy on my wife quite a few times. Like the guys are saying, the contamination of the fluid is a real concern when only replacing one component. I’m spending about $650 on parts. For me, it was a question of how long I’m going to have the car and how many times do I want to mess with the power steering system. I enjoy working on this car, but hate doing something more than once.