spiller91ls

I also have a k&n filter and use mobil1 5w-30, and mobil1 85w90 in the rear. I purchased the car in april of this year and it had 150000 miles on it and it has 165000 miles on it right now ( I paid $6700 for it, the guy I baught it from needed a down payment for a BMW touring car, boy did he lose out, he had to pay $5500 for new transmission when it went out on his beemer in June, at which time he offered to buy the car back from me. He also told me that his wife could get no better that 18 mpg) the car is kind of a oddball but real nice in that it has cloth seats.

Just got in from a trip to Pheonix yesterday 9/7. Here is the milage I got. filled up the tank in Deming NM ($1.67/gal) drove to pheonix, on the way back stopped in Safford AZ($1.98) put 5 gallon exactly in tank. drove back to Deming and filled up tank $18.5 gallons, that comes out to 22.5 gallons used for trip, and the trip was 623.6 milesloneg, that works out to 27.7 MPG, most of the trip was done doing 85 mph exept for the mountains between Globe to Phoenix which I was doing about 60-70 mph.

hey pgross, that choppy wear on the edge of your tires is called "cupping" and the #1 cause is worn out shocks. as far as the tire issuse, stop trying to put the cheapest tire on a $45000 car, you get what you pay for. nothing quite like having a rear tire blowout at 110 mph and $2000-3000 repair bill to fix the mess from a $120 tire T rated tire. it's never happed to me on my '91 ls but it did on my '73 Torino and since them (1993) all my vehicles have had nothing but bfgoodrich rubber on them.

wow, your consider 10.5:1 compression as low, what planet are you from. you need to pull your spark plugs and make sure your not getting little silver specks on them. If you are, then those little specks are part of your pistons, as far as only worring about detenation at full trottle you are just fooling yourself, it can happen going up hill at partial trottle.

try pressing the auto button on, then press the down button to a lower temp, till it stops beeping when you press the button.

I paid $686 for my set of tires, they are 225/60ZR15 bfgoodrich comp t/a's. at the end of this year i'll be putting a set of dante design wheel and a set of 245/45YR17 bfgoodrich g-force KW and they run about $185 a piece. i get my tires from discount tire co.

when you remove the alternator you have to remove the shield that is on it to put on the new one, just use that and a piece of sheet metal or aluminum. I made it like a tube just to make sure anything that dripped on it wouldn't get on the alternator. it's been on the car for a couple of month now and i'm not going to take it of to get a picture of it. I changed my oil last week and haven't seen any new leaks on it so i probably didn't need to make the sheild anyway.

It's pretty nice over here right now, our high are 90-92 degrees and nights a 70-75, and getting rain in the evenings. as far as the neighborhood we're getting a lot of people moving in from california, and that group of people can screw up anything. it's a good thing we have a big mining company out here that owns a lot of property or they would try to fill up the hills out here with houses.

i'm not sure if toyota did it, but ford, jeep, chevy put fuel filters on each of the injectors, kink of last change to catch anything that get trou the regular filter. all they are are little strainers, you'll have to ask a toyota/lexus mechanic if they are that way. i'll look in my repail manuels and see if they have anything, can't do it now since i'm in work.

I just got back from shooting a pistol match at mesa AZ. when I found some gas by my buddys house for 1.71/gallon. my trip od was as 450.8 miles and I took 17.232gallons to fill on a 22.5 gallon tank. this works out to 26.16 mpg. when I was filling the tank I noticed that it was labeled as 02 gas, had 15% methonal. I'm in the process of using up this crap gas. normally I hit 300 miles at the half empty mark. right now i'm at 330 miles and at the 3/4 empty mark. as far as driving straight roads here in NM, yes we do have very long straight road, and our speed limits are 75 mph, and i usually run 100-110 mph on them, thats why i have BFGoodrich Comp T/A ZR rated tires and us a escort solo s2 radar detector. the best part is i shoot with a lot of the NM state police. so that pretty go ticket repellant also.

This is just a federal map, each state has its own requirments for certain areas. I used to wrench on a IMCA modified team and we ran pure methonal in the engine, when the race was over we use to empty the tank and put 5 gallons of sunco 112 octan race gas and run the engine till thare was no methonal in the whole system since it would eat up the aluminum in the carb. the only benifit to running methonal, alcohal, ethonal, and ether is it raises the octan, and burns very clean. the downside is it is very toxic to you and the car. you burn 1.6 times more than pure gasoline to make the same amount of power, hence the bad gas mileage.

a code 21 is a solar sensor alarm. what happend is you probably got the codes when it was dark or you did it in a garage. what you need to do is check the codes in the sun or place a light above the passenger windsheild, the sensor is on the passenger side of the defroster, it's the little bump at the end of the vent. just get some light on it when you check the codes, and it should go away

I actually am a very heavy footed driver, the trick is to be smooth on the gas and breaking. the only gas that I put in my ls is texaco/shell, since gas quality makes a big differance. try and avoid gas that have alcohal methanol, and ethol. one trick to find out if the gas has any of these is to put some in a bottle or glass jar, add water and shake it, if the water is absorbed and you can't tell the difference from gas to water, then you need to find a different gas supply. it also gives off reall bad vapors when you are putting gas in your tank, makes you kind of nousios.

wow, some you guys need to change your driving habbits. the gas we get here in NM is unoxygenated gas and I regularly get 27.5-28 mpg city and/or highway, it doesn't seam to make a difference. the gas here is 1.78 gallon right now here. If I put gas in at Phoenix AZ, then my milage goes down to about 24.5 mpg, this is with a 91 ls with 161000 miles on it.

I'll try and see what a code 33 is in the books, but i wont be able to get back to you untill tomarrow. I will be in alamo on 8/24, i'll be shooting at the ipsc match at La Luz, maybe if your still having the problem I can help you then. John aka spiller

Try turning on you a/c, open the hood and look to see if your compressor is turning. this should clear tell you if you don't have enough freon in the system. where in NM do you live, I live in Silver City and have a 91 ls. I also have the shop manuels for the car.

If you have the owners manuel, then the instructions for removing the headlamps are in there.

glad i could help. the alternator took me about 2 hours to change, since i didn't put a new power steering pump in. I did build a shield to go over the alternator so any dripping oil will not get on the new alternator. Last week on the 4th of july my water pump let go on me so i'm in the process of replacing it and the timing belt. it's a pretty easy to do, just a bunch of sensors to remove without breaking any of them.

check to see what your RPM is next time it happens. It may be below where the cut off switch for the alternator is, or you may have a bad regulator in the alternator.

Are these the light's that come on in your instrument panel: low oil level, low coolent, battery, parking, tail light out: if these are the lights that are on then your alternator is bad, when the alternator gets hot enough then something in the regulator opens up. My did the same thing to me last week on the way back from california I trouble shoot it for about two hours in which time it cooled down enough for me to ge back to New Mexico, I was traveling at night. when I got home I found a wiring print from a friend of mine who is a mechanic. and all those lights are hooked up directly to the yellow wire coming from the alternator, and go thru several dioeds, so instead of just the battery discharging light coming on, all those lights come on. probably lexus's way of making you go to them and replace the alternator for big $$$. Mine cost $229 from Checker auto, they have on for $175 made by autolite but I don't think it has the pulley installed on it. should get it tomarrow, and today i'll get under in to pull it out. Try one other thing on it, this is when I first noticed it, press your gas pedal down to the full throttle button and see if you can make the lights blink off/on, also your cruise control won't work if all the light are on.

the plastic plugs i'm talking about are on top of the metal radiator support. that's the bar that about 2 inches wide and runs from the back of one headlight to the back of the other headlight, it's also what is between the driver side headlight and the battery. there should be about 4 plugs along the support, just pull them all off and the adjustment screw should be under the two outside ones, about 3 inches from the fender. The plugs are about 3/4 inch diamater and have a X cut in them.

This is how you adjust your headlights. you will need a cordless drill with a 1/4 extension and a 10mm socket or just us a long philips bit. there is a adjustment screw that is visible on the headlamp assembly, the other one is located under the black plastic plug with a X cut in it, you can remove the plug and it makes it easier to get the bit or socket on. set the drill on slow speed and turn it to see which way the light moves, I can't remember which screw moves what, but don't try this by hand you'll be their all night cranking on it. with the gear reduction and fine threads this is why you need a drill.