Exhaustgases

And long before suspecting the fuel pump since they do seem to last a very long time not just in LS's but in other cars too. One of the biggy's in these cars is the ECU capacitor problem. And yes it can be other things causing your problem as well, you need someone that knows how to trouble shoot to figure it out.

Yes both front wheels need to be linked together not one flopping one way or the other, that is the sign of something very loose and dangerous. I don't want a fellow Lexus guy hurt or his car ruined.

It says it fits. Rock auto will take it back if not right and they will pay the shipping too.

This is the part number that is in the online parts book. 270605001184 So what is it that is "also says" I didn't see anything that said that. And where did you get the goofy numbers? This is off the tag on one from a 91 27060-50011 and below that 100211-6350 and this unit looks like an original not rebuilt Denso.

So far all the pictures are blank for me anyway. 2 most leakable areas are the low speed control valve that is the deal with the 2 vacuum hoses to it on the side of the ps pump, and then the reservoir to pump o ring, and then of course other areas of the pump could leak too.

There are a lot of places to leak coolant up front. To find it you maybe taking it apart at least all the plastic covers.

If the one wheel turns right and left then yeah you need to fix it now, don't drive it.

You will be looking for corrosion on wire terminals, it can be anywhere from fuse connections to the battery cables. Anyplace a wire connects needs to be clean.

Your likely on to something, and I agree I would not jump into replacing the air with coils unless I needed super dependability for a long trip or something. The ecu for the air is in the trunk on the right side. It could have leaking capacitor problems like the engine ecu does. There could also be a solenoid valve leaking as well. I don't think all the leaking is from the bags themselves either. It could also be a height sensor not doing something right either but that should affect something all the time, I'd think. Did you check for codes? They are listed on the Lexls site I think its called.

I've seen more fluid than that on them. So you need to check the voltage at the battery when its running, should be around 14 plus volts. Also if that's good then look for bad connections on the battery terminals and even things like the fusible link connections, grounds etc. and yeah like Craig says you don't want atf all over the alternator either. There are seals that can leak on the pump and the hoses and most of all the low engine speed vacuum valve, usually the orings go bad in them or the case gets loose and they leak. Some people remove them and then plug the hole with a proper threaded plug.

To bad in needed a repaint. Maybe ebay has one, I don't see many that year in wrecking yards.

Also it can be something like the thermostat housing or even a sensor on the top leaking and flowing down there leaks can be hard to pin point. Just more ideas and also like Craig says too.

That is a very common problem on these cars and no real resolution for the problem. It could be anything from the gas cap not venting, to the Idle air control valve leaking and or not working correctly. Also O2 sensors and egr. If you do get it sorted out please post here what it was. Oh and the fuel pump resistor can be a problem. Since the controls are electric always look for corroded connections and bad grounds too. Like I say many have had this problem with their cars and no solid resolutions yet. I have a 90 that does it too, its on my list to work on just too busy with other stuff. For more ideas there is also the ECU capacitor issue that can cause problems too.

So It really has 135,000 you missed a zero...... First of all I hope she has paper work and proof of the transaction, she needs to go to a vehicle license place and ask them what to do. She may need an attorney if the place is not responding, and it could be out of business too. Hope it works okay for her. What year is it?

How is the ECT? How are the o2 sensors? Check fuel pressure and Maf. Fuel filter?

Is it in good shape and what color and what state? What options does it have?

I have some real good rules to follow. 1 if you care about your car, it is best not to let others work on it or even be around it. 2 Never get the windows tinted, I think they are already that way from the factory, because color is a part number thing for windows. And they get rid of the original stickers that came on the car to do it. People that work on cars for a living usually don't have a love for the machine they are working on, its a do it now fast deal and that's how they get paid. They don't make money by being careful and taking a bunch of time to accomplish the task. A good 3M glue would likely hold that tear. But as long as the tint joints paying try to get the correct fix. Personally I hate tint, just try to remove it, especially around the rear window defog wires.

You can by pass relay and all, at the data port on the engine B+ jumped to FP. That is how to test fuel pressure and limp home if the relay and resistor go bad. The resistor is probably not good.

Okay, 1990 to 1994 are all Gen 1, and between the years there were some minor changes, but not in the basic body, so it should be the same on your car. In the 92 manual its just a line drawing not showing much. On my 90, the way to access it is to remove the lower panel under the glove box or actually under the blower unit I think you can leave in the ECU panel I don't know because I have mine out at the time. That resistor is located just to the right of the wire bundle where you see the 3 plugs in the middle of the unit, and its near the fan hump to the left of it and towards the front of the car, use a mirror and a flash light to look for it. The wires will be in the way somewhat. And keep me posted on how it goes. Have fun. And your welcome

Angel had nothing to do with anything here, that person was asking for help. I linked for angel, the link to the angel post is in the grey bar it is how this website did it. You click on Fuse issues.

The fuel pump relay is not involved with the fuel pump until a lot of power is demanded, other wise the fuel pump resistor is where the pump gets its power. So the resistor is suspect. Start with a new fuel filter, and then a fuel system pressure check would be nice too. It could be bad gas and could be a fuel pump going out, it could be the ECU capacitor problem. And it could be electrical signal problems.

I was going to say that is the quick fix if there is bearing noise, just the pulley needs changing. If the tension is weak then the whole unit needs changing.

Funny how when you help, then they never come back.

I put the above link to show a potential problem, but I think your problem could be the clamps at the battery, just make sure you don't have the key in the ignition switch and do roll the windows up and close the doors and don't lock them. Start by removing the clamps and cleaning the terminals and the inside of the clamps and use a battery terminal protectant on them. If that doesn't cure it then even where the cable is crimped to the eye it can corrode. As well as the fusible links just look at how corroded they look in the above post. Arcing is the sign of a bad connection that is demanding a lot of current, and that is the grounds from battery to the engine because the starter is demanding it and the main power wire as well. That's were to look. Start at those battery connections. And make sure they be tight when done. (click on the gray bar at Fuse issues)

I'm talking fusible links only. They couldn't figure out how to replace it. And wow yours as well as mine look bad, all those connections need cleaning up and even the crimped eye's at the wire interface could be corroded. All that is a potential problem. Its our moist weather NY and WA.