Exhaustgases

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/261358-the-first-gen-power-steering-bible-16.html For a plug go to the very last post #238, and that IAC can be fixed as well so don't toss it. The plug needs to be done just like in that link. Anything else can and will end up leaking, it needs to seal on the seat. And yeah that valve leaking could be the cause of the smoke, and maybe the rough running to, didn't think of that. And if nothing has been done to the ecu it maybe needing the caps changed, its just part of getting old. There are even cases of the old solder on circuit boards breaking down and needing to be reflowed, just not to long ago read something about a radio needing that.

White smoke is usually raw fuel and that would be a RICH condition not lean. It could be something to do with the cold start injector. And actually its the opposite of what you are saying its more like there is too much fuel pressure. I'm not sure of the duration of the cold start injector and it is shutting off and not leaking if all does clear up. The time you mention means things like O2 sensors are kicking in ok since that time is about when it will go closed loop, so it could be something with the cold start fuel system or it could be the basic start and pre closed loop routines and that points to the ecu itself. Have you read about the capacitor problems that they can have? Smell the smoke. If its not gas then could be coolant and that would drag it down some till it clears out. Problem there is it would be all the time not just when real cold. There is a cold start switch that turns on the cold start injector and of course its related software in the ecu.

Very likely a china made part.

Corroded connections at the fusible links if that year has them. Look for things like battery wires with corrosion where the wire fits into the eye of the connector and that means replacing the cable end.

More value in stock. The windows are factory tinted, and since you got to have some care less idiot in your car to do it, I say no. Wheels everyone does it be different and just drive it as it is from the factory. And why spend more money on something not needed and in the end has zero value. 58K miles just keep it nice and you will have something special. That's a good find for the right price. Sedans are for driving, find a sporty 2 door car to do the aftermarket crap to.

First I would have really liked for you to post the details of the scans and what the "LOW" compression reading was. There are 3 main things I can think of right off that will cause that problem you have. And they are not in order, 1 Low compression, 2 leaking injector especially the cold start injector 3 the ecu And not knowing your Low compression reading cylinder, my first bet is the ecu. I have had that same problem before on some non lexus cars and truck and it was the ecu that was the cause. This link should show you how common the ecu problems are. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html And this ecu fix is only about $10 or so depending on who does it. Don't give up on the car, you could have these same problems on any car newer than 1980 or so. Its just the fun of having computers in cars.

Same problem? A burned up compressor? Did someone do an R134 conversion on it? If so did they use the Lexus service bulletin to do it? Also its old and things to wear out, and seals and o rings leak, also the condenser and the evaporator can leak in time as well. What the original poster was describing is a compressor that seized up and possible the clutch was seized months before its hard to say, but that could be the case and just wore out the compressor due to running all the time. So what kind of condition is your 90 in? I got 90's too.

It really sounds like you need a good place to do all this work your self. I would first try to clean everything. Craigs got some good advice.

And in most cases if the little latching clip breaks you can wrap a small wire tie around the receiving plug and then another between the 2 wires and into the first tie then tighten the first then the second one. Its either that or try to purchase new connectors and the hassle of removing the contacts to transplant to the new part, there are special tools for that.

I did have a leak one time from a reman pump. So now when I do a ps pump I do some certain things to make sure it won't leak, old tricks and its against what anyone would say to do. So I'm hush on it. I'll see how long it lasts.

It could be a bearing for some pulley on the way out, either serpentine or timing belt. And just for fun check the air filter.

I did that same fix a while back now. I used a very small screw driver to scrap the contacts and then put the same grease on them, it was a fun little deal to do. Had to hope things went back together ok and not fall out of alignment when doing so. Its worked just great since. I think they go bad from lack of use, either sitting too much or using the remote to lock and unlock the doors. Hmm also it could be from too much use and wearing the grease off the contacts. ? Gosh any ideas? Nothing else happening on this site. So looking at old threads.

Yeah old post.... I know. But since they are here and people still read them..... Any way the hammer removal method does not set up a vibration, as you can vibrate the heck out of it with an air hammer. What the hammer does is distort the taper a small amount and then it will release the male taper.

Cloth seats seem to wear real good, they just don't like having stuff spilled on them or leaks from little dogs or little kids pants, you know that sort of stuff.

The speedometer sensors or the gauge itself can go bad then the miles can stack up and you don't know how many for sure. The seat wearing is a difficult judge, because I have a car with 300,000 well almost that and one with 137,000 and the driver seats are both worn about the same in that area, so it depends on how the person gets in and out of the car I guess. Still I would think with that wear its at least close to 20,000 and that is still low miles. If the body and paint are perfect then still who knows for sure. It sounds like a nice condition car. And I agree with everything Trevor said, the brakes system can suffer if there is any moisture in the system I've had vehicles that have corrosion in the wheel cylinders because of it. A low mile car shouldn't have problems like that but you don't know for sure. If it has Trac and then the ABS could have trouble too. You just have to run it and drive it to see how it all is. If the odometer and speedometer work, you likely could be right on the miles, that is if the person selling seems honest. I don't know about people in Indonesia so your the one to figure that out. Good luck and post some pictures and let us know how it goes. And welcome to the website.

An odometer adjusted to show more the correct mileage should not be a problem, the problem is when someone makes it less than it should be. So showing the higher miles is a good thing especially since these cars do seem to have the meters go out occasionally.

All the ad's anyone ever write say "LOADED" and then mentions everything you just did. That is all standard stuff on a normal OPTIONLESS LS. The moon roof was an option for the Gen 1's, I don't know about the Gen 2 though, and besides it is soooooo common to have the moon roof its like its almost not an option. Power seats, power windows, power mirrors, power ABS brakes, AC, Radio, Automatic transmission, V8 are all standard stuff on an LS. Options are, Driver memory, Air suspension, Trac, Heated seats, Moon roof, CD player, Nakamichi sound system, Leather interior, Power head rests, power seat belt shoulder height, (I think those are with the memory option), Floor mats, trunk mat, Fog lights, Power extend steering wheel. That's all that come to mind right now and that was for Gen 1. Gen 1 is 90 to 94. I know on the Gen 2 Trac, and heated seats are an option.

It would be nice to find out. Since the different years both use the bad design ball joints, I would bet all those parts are interchangeable.

Since the bolt is the same part number, maybe the 90-94 part would work? And same with the control arm (number)? That is the same type of problem with other suspension parts on these cars, I guess the rear ball joints are like that, needing to get the whole arm deal, its too bad there is no place that sells things like ball joints that has all the dimensions so a person could match up what he needs. Because maybe there is an old ford or chevy part that would fit and work if the gen 1 part won't. If you ever find a good source please share it here. I looked at the parts book info and lower control arm for a 1990 has a 10 as the last two numbers and the 96 has a 20, I would still guess the part would work, need to look at both. I could try to measure mine but its in the car so that would be pretty difficult to do. I have early gen 1's.

Billy is correct, and that is the bad thing about not being a do it yourself person. For your first job depending on where the parts would be purchased your looking at maybe $300 of parts. And all the rest in labor. On the second adventure, was less than $100. of parts, the rest labor. On the 2015 adventure it was less than $100. in parts and the rest labor. So you spent $6500 in parts and labor. New 2016 Lexus $700. per month payments, plus down payment on a lease, is $8400. a year not including insurance gas and normal up keep. So spending 6500 a year would be money ahead. Take some automotive fix it classes and learn how to do some of the work, and not get ripped off.

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9670-AUTOSCANNER-Trilingual-Screen/dp/B011P30EMO With a scan tool like this that will show real time data, you can accurately position the tps to show the correct opening, I have done it before on other cars. I do gen 1 LS so I have not done so on an LS. If you really plan on trouble shooting this sort of tool is good to have showing such things as long and short term fuel trims and O2 sensor voltages etc. So its a bit more than just a code reader.

As long as the body and paint is in good shape as well as interior, all the stuff works? No suspension noises? The miles are pretty good. At that miles it better have original engine and transmission. They both can last way past that with proper maintenance. Do they have any maintenance records? What options does it have? No options I'd gettem down lower, and not all lexus glass I'd gettem down lower yet. A cheapy windshield is not the same as the $700 to $1200 lexus one. If it has aftermarket electronics installed hopefully it wasn't a hack that did it, else the wiring could be a mess. Word of advice, do not get an explorer. Just do a search for the problems they can have.

First check for codes, next check the transmission fluid with the dipstick with it running in park on a level surface. Only use Toyota Type IV fluid. You need a skinny funnel to add the fluid through the dip stick tube, don't over fill it.

Oh and the turbine is the input element to the transmission input shaft with in the torque converter. The pump is the element connected to the engine, then the stator is the element that directs the fluid flow into the turbine and its action creates the torque amplification, this happens at stopped and low vehicle speeds, as speed increases the stator starts to free wheel and torque amplification drops off, and then the torque converter clutch is applied and the whole torque converter is then bypassed and out of the picture for power flow to the transmission input shaft.

If Lexus is not allowing such things then they need to start reprinting manuals for older cars. There are some other company's that allow people with manuals on old defunct products to copy and offer them for free and in complete form on the internet. So is Lexus still selling manuals on the older cars? If so where can I get them? And don't say copy them from a site since they don't allow that.