Exhaustgases

Since this site is pretty dead, I'm either thinking that everyone got rid of their LS400 s or they are so good there not having any problems. Maybe the coolness has worn off and they just sit there collecting dirt, or everyone is making thousands sending them to cuba or something like that? We need some updates on fixes and how the cars are going.

Bri , I guess I need to study the books on it. I haven't played with it and didn't know about the diagnostics etc. I did look at the body collision book and shows the module locations better for the security module. It looks like its above the interior fuse box. And the door lock module is back near the radio antenna stuff. You maybe right about the module, I don't know.

I think what the security module does is OPEN the starter solenoid circuit. No reason to have to short one side, but could. The key deal. Only a lock smith or dealer can do what it required to set it. And the reason why is the information to do any of the security related stuff like that and the radio is only allowed to dealers and qualified lock smiths. That is posted on the Technical information site at Toyota. We all can pay for access to all the other information, just not the security related stuff. So either you need a person that knows how to deal with it or do the above.

The car is a 91 right? The dealer must think its a 95 or 98 or something like that. If the module is bad replace it. There is nothing to reprogram in the old days. What intercommunication there is between the modules is a set thing and not adjustable, things were easier then. The key transmitter needs to be programmed to the receiver in the trunk for the remote it is a separate deal from the security system. I say the module is good. If your door locks worked then you could follow the procedure in the owners manual to reset the security system. So get the door locks and switches to work and then try the procedure, there is very little other than maybe the capacitors that go bad in the engine control ecu could also go bad in the other modules as well. Don't throw the old module out if you replace it. If it truly is the problem it likely can be fixed cheaply. Okay looked in the book. The module looks to be above the interior fuse box or to the right of it possibly near the steering column. There is an extra horn near the right hand hood hinge that is for the security system, and of course all the door switches are part of it, meaning the key switches and dome light switches etc.

First off so far these are not money making cars, maybe someday they will be, but that is at least 10 years out. Second that one has big miles, and yeah I know they go forever. Not really. It still takes maintenance to accomplish that. If the body and paint isn't an 8 or 9 out of 10 and the interior the same or better. Its more of a parts car. The normal bad points are, leaky power steering, bad alternators because of it, leaky trunks, leaky moon roofs, leaky engines valve covers, seals etc. front suspension problems with parts wearing out. If you want a project okay it may well be a big one. If the paint and body is no good its never going to pay back at sale what you put into it. I say the main things to look at are 1, paint and body, 2 interior, 3 front and rear suspension, 4, maintenance like starter replacement, and when timing belt was done. It is not worth fixing a total junker up, some little dents here and there okay but no major clear coat pealing off etc. good quality repaint is very very expensive, and would cost more that rebuilding the engine and the transmission and all the suspension work. It sounds like a $200 or 300 wrecking yard car if that. And its not legal to take any emission stuff off the car, lots of people think it is. Just research it. And doing that sort of thing will ruin it for anyone that likes the car hobby so don't do it.

I think it is more towards the center of the dash, not sure and too lazy to run and look right now. There is no reprogramming that I know of, because there is nothing to program it too. And keep the old one it maybe fixable.

You can drain and refill it with what is spec'd in the manual. I think I used what was available, 80W-90 or 75W-90 GL5 gear oil. That is if its the rear Axle you are talking about.

I can't tell since some photos didn't come through, did you get the big dent out of the fender? It really doesn't look too bad. On lower generations that lower section is a plastic panel, is it that on your years?

I hope it works out okay.

Likely the pump, and can be caused by air in the system. Any leaks around the pump? Like the o ring for the reservoir ? (the above was before seeing the link) I looked at the link. If it only does it when the wheel is turned why not just say that, all the other info makes it confusing. I would get the front wheels off the ground, and turn off the engine, and see if it makes the noise then by turning the steering wheel, if its a grommet squeaking then you should hear it, it could be things like bearings and or u joints as well.

dicer ? Drinking, In, Car, Enter, Race ? The lady that hit her was drinking and wanted to race?

Do a paintless dent repair, good ones can work miracles. Or part it out and get another one. Yeah just pop that fender out and color sand the tire rubber off and its like it never happened.

Wow had me worried. Glad its just the car. Insurance is not a good thing around older cars, they can total a perfectly nice car for very little damage.

Unplug / disconnect the battery for a time make sure no key in ignition when doing it. If the radio won't reset then you will have to have the dealer or a qualified electronics place or maybe even a lock smith do it. Because only those people have access to the special codes how to do the reset. If after reconnecting the battery and it still won't start use the cancel alarm procedure in the manual.

I only know 1990 to 1994. I don't think they ever did, but don't know that for sure.

Look around on the site here, others have just recently dealt with this too.

Total system drain and flush. So this means the ABS system, and trac if you have it. This is a better project for the lexus dealer since they have the correct tools to do it. So did you push the pedal after adding the fluid? Since its setting in there it polluted all the brake fluid I'm sure. And one other tid bit, you should not have any power steering fluid bottle anywhere near a 1992 LS400, there is nothing on the car that uses it. The power steering system has listed in the owners manual as well as the cap for the powersteering that you are to use only Dexron automatic transmission fluid. And another important thing, you DO NOT use that same Dexron in the transmission. The transmission takes the Toyota IV fluid. You may not need to change the master cylinder or anything else, just a good drain and total system flush. Time will tell though, if it ruins the brake system then the car is likely a total loss unless you do mechanic work and can fix everything. When adding fluids it is best to study things well, there is a lot on the forums how to and what is supposed to be used.

Have you tried having your wife power it up while you use both hands to kinda vise gripe between hands and help pull it up? It could be any number of things causing it. And the rear windows never roll all the way down they are always sticking up out of the door when rolled down to max down. If some how it was forced more and I'm not sure if that is possible, but still something could have been broke. Rule one to keep a car nice, no kids in and or around it, nor animals.

Your name has 430 LS under it and this is the LS400 section. So we don't know. If you had a 1990 to 94 I could tell you how. And also you will have to specify if it is a tail light or the 3rd brake light.

I know of a Subaru that's been using it for 4 plus years now. And a Gen 1 LS400 that's going on a year. Likely a switch or solenoid not working. And that's what the override button is for, so when the automatic system messes up you can still drive it.

I would have put a thin film of Vaseline or grease on it and in the hole so it wouldn't corrode again. Good work getting it out of there.

I'm not sure about the 2000 but, the older Generations had some nasty power steering leaks that would goof up the alternator, make sure it doesn't have something leaking on it.

Lots of corrosion, did you lube it up a bit before installing the new one? How far did you drill into it and what size drill, then what a nice wood or sheet metal screw or what? Also looks like a lot of RTV or something there?????

After you get it home, and windows are up, doors closed and unlocked key is not in the ignition and in your pocket. Disconnect both battery terminals and clean them and the ones on the battery, look on youtube to see how to do it. Make sure there is no corrosion hiding in the cable itself where it is pinched to the terminal clamp that fits onto the battery. Also make sure the ground wire is tight to the engine attachment point. Use some sort of battery terminal protectant (talk to auto parts store) and then put the cables back on and make sure they are tight. And if you get it running go to a auto parts store to have them check your alternator and battery.

The cheap and easy fix is to contact Tanin auto electric. They do good work and for whats involved to do it, they almost work for free.