Exhaustgases

LS's seem to hold value over other cars. If you where driving a ford of some sort then no don't fix it, its not worth it. But a Lexus and a Mercedes are worth the fixing, they seem to both hold value longer than most others.

Put is on a known very flat plate / surface, cycle the ride height up and down. Leave it running to check the heights. It can be the height adjustment sensors if it constantly is off in the same amount corner to corner. And simply lubing them could correct the problem.

This is why not to tint the windows. Any factory tints are added to the glass mix as far as I know. Any tint that is peeling is something someone wasted the $ to have done. And in the end someone gets stuck especially with the rear window heating elements, bye bye heated rear window. I will never ever tint a car I care about.

You don't know if the connections are good, untill you disconnect them from the battery and clean them. If it starts good with jumper then its either the battery is no good or the connections are not clean. If its not charging then the alternator or regulator is not working. If you think there is a parasitic drain then you need to connect an amp meter and see if its so.

Classic or collectable? Neither were all the old cars of the past that are now collectable. Adding junk to the car is asking for unnecessary trouble. Just drive and enjoy.

And a new one is $700 or so.

Troll ? I like that one.

And a total waste of all the work, if your not totally rebuilding or replacing the whole starter. Yes contacts go bad and can cause the problems, but whats next since that starter is full of wear parts, like the one way clutch, brushes, commutator, bushings / bearings etc. Don't just fix a solenoid.

Not really. I would think a person would start a new thread for their car problem, and not use or resurrect one from 7 years ago that doesn't even apply to the car in question. Its like asking for help on an aircooled VW beetle on a Lexus forum.

I just did an Oreillys one years ago on a 90. Its still holding in there. Though what I would rather do is have a spare ie keep my original and do it myself rebuild. I really don't know what is best new at dealer is too costly. In a pinch if I needed one right now I'd likely just do the oreillys thing again or napa, maybe denso at rock auto but that's a wait of a week or so.

You really need to re read the title to this thread..........................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The year is a 1992. Not a 96........................................

No mechanicing is hard. The problem is all the lack of space behind the engine, and the plastic crap that will break. Electric connectors etc. The wire loom prevents fully removing the rear coolant cross over manifold, and with no space removing each starter bolt cost me an hour each approximately. Maybe things are easier on Billys 99. And besides I don't try to rush on some things I work on I try not to scratch or dent etc. People that don't care about stuff can do it at break neck speed, just like I can do getting parts at the wrecking yard where I don't worry about messing something up. I think I could get the starter out in an hour or so on a junker with the right tools.

There are a lot of could be's. Also the rear coolant cross over manifold could be leaking, or any hoses that carry the stuff as well. You read wrong, they do fail often. Its a motor with bushings and with brushes that run on the commutator, all are wear items, along with the bendix or one way clutch for the drive gear that engages with the ring gear, and yes the contactor in the solenoid needs attention as well. It is just not smart to not deal with it while all the stuff is apart.

There are a lot of could be's. Also the rear coolant cross over manifold could be leaking, or any hoses that carry the stuff as well. If you end up removing the intake manifold, I would do a starter if it needs it or not.

Any shop that is charging $500. in my area you would not want to take a car there. You'd likely have more problems after wards. Its not an easy job, and you should not expect to have it done for nothing. If I was a shop and charging to do that job it would be $1500. and I would want a week to do it. Why? Old cars with heat damaged electric wires and connectors as well as hoses etc. If it was just a simple twist the wrench job then yeah, it would be a cheaper job to do. Its all the other things that are the problem. And most important remember that shop has to stand behind the work. All they got to do is goof up, on the rear coolant cross over manifold and have a leak. Then the job has to be done again and all for free. So that is also why I would charge accordingly. If you want cheap do it your self. It is not a fun job.

You can use a paper clip jumper on the diagnostic connector, between the Fp and B+ I think it is terminals to bypass the fuel pump resistor and relay and see if your pump runs.

A rubber hammer will not release it since it will not distort the steel. I have used the hammer method against my better judgment on a Mercedes and it took way more than a few light love taps, we are talking major impact stress on everything. And that was with a puller applied at the same time.

Lots of things can cause strange problems in these cars. There is the ECU problem, IAC motor, broken cracked vacuum lines, Engine coolant temp sensor, and other sensors. Not easy to track down lots of these problems on an OBD1 system. Trying to read codes is a good place to start, and a code can be set with the check engine light not being on.

I think the whole exhaust system is still available from the dealer, the cost of it would run over $6,000. Just something to think about when modding the exhaust. Its all good, you can do what you want to it. It will just make mine more valuable. If you were to research a bit you'd find that with these or anyother car that is modded do not sell for top dollar as compaired to stock. In the end and down the road some years when we see the prices back up to where they were when the cars were brand new, alot of people will be kicking them selves. Yeah maybe these cars won't ever be in that status either, but you really don't know. I'd have forked over some big $ for the right car, but as time goes on it becomes less and less of a chance to find anything. So what options does it have and what color?

If it really is in top condition, just advice. Don't do anything that can not be reversed. No extra holes, no fender flares, no scrapping up the under belly. You really could have a time capsule and be worth some $ in the near future. You can find these cars with a ton of mods done for dirt cheap, and they have already blown the $ for all the fancy wheels and shock supports and everything else. Shock tower supports will abrade the paint and then a person that wants original won't even continue to look when sale day comes. I know I have passed up so many cars because of children and the garbage they want to do to cars and trucks. If that car is tip tops, and I wanted a project and not a garage queen I'd try to move it for a huge profit right now. What kind of options does it have? I am guessing that since its likely in good shape it is a low or no option car. What color is it? Oh and radio mods means goofing up wiring and speaker boxes and who knows what else. Its spend 1 to 2 K on stuff to loose it all in the end.

Check all battery and ground connections. Also the terminals at the fusible links for corrosion and clean connections.

It will just be another junker like all the rest. If it is in pristine condition leave it alone and drive it. If you have to have a project get a project. At the rate these cars are being messed up and ruined there won't be any good ones left.

Its been awhile since replacing the O2 sensor for me so I don't remember the plug. So either the tab deal broke off in your other end. Or they are using a different part or mixed things up and that is for a different year. I don't know.

Is the 97 a CAN system? If so it could be figured out with a good scan tool.

I agree with Craig, I wouldn't waste time get it back right away.