Exhaustgases

Since my 92 read out is dark !!!!! And since I thought the 1990 and 1991 is the same unit, there is only time and heat temperature there is no date. So I wonder if you have a unit from a newer car? Is the display divided? If so it is the wrong unit. How long have you had this car?

So it started and ran at about 500 rpms then you pushed the gas up to 1000, so its normal stuff. It did not sound like 200 rpms at all. Nor did the tach read 200 rpms.

A code doesn't always mean that is the problem. And one bad thing about our OBD1 systems is we don't get all the information that an OBD2 system will report, so it makes it much more difficult to pin point the problem. These cars have the famous ECU leaky capacitor problems and that alone can cause many false codes or running problems. Also there are other little things that can be or add to the problem like leaky vacuum hoses, the bearings in the idle air control motor. Also things like low voltage from bad connections due to corrosion with in connectors or wire junction points. A true auto tech would be trying to check for the signals from those items before replacing them. And first suspect the wiring and connections from them to the ECU. So if the parts are known good that were replaced then the problem is either getting the information to the ECU or the ECU itself. The most important thing in this whole endeavor is to have the proper service information. You can go to the Toyota TIS site and get all the service manual info and even service bulletins that may cover the exact problem you are having. It is the best bang for the buck for the service information. I think its $15 for 2 days, of use.

Easy fix, make sure the window lock button isn't set, I had that same thing happen one time and I thought the same thing.

For cheap you go to the Lexus tech center and can get the manual info. https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&SMENC=ISO-8859-1&SMLOCALE=US-EN&SMAUTHREASON=0&SMAGENTNAME=%24SM%24mT%2bGLraBu9CwUVnZg4mEDzB2kysT90hgbwsWgdZzNOc%3d&TARGET=%24SM%24https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F

Then you have to ask yourself, why did the Lexus engineers decide to use them? Running hot? Not a problem until things start to melt. So do you think the Lexus engineers got it all figured out?

What is a bold ? Did you mean bulb ? The 2 different lights mean different things and are unrelated. Except when the brake pedal is pushed it does turn on the brake lights and also exhausts some of the engine vacuum.

That's nothing I had a big dog one time that loved to eat my bolts and nuts.

Okay I did that, and ?

I would first go to a dealer and ask to look at the shop manual and study it. If that is out of the question I would with key off bleed out some of the air on the high shocks to level it up and see if it self recovers then. There is no such thing as a break pad that I know of. There are BRAKE pads though.

If I remember others that had this kind of problem, it was the ecu capacitor deal.

Injectors all have a signal? If the engine was turning and had spark at all wires then t belt is still there, could jump time though. And like above c test would show that. If it had good timed spark it should have run on start fluid.

I was and am talking about value, the crashed and branded titled car has no value and every single penny spent on it except for parts values is a total waste of your money. Its that simple. No matter if you sell it or not. If you want to toss out the $ like that I will send an address and you could just mail the $ to me. Because unless you plan to get another LS and use all those parts that you do to fix the junker you are just flushing $ down the toilet. And unless you can do everthing there is to do to fix it yourself, and just do it as a leisure hobby and not bust your rear on it and as a learning deal, then its not worth the effort or money. I have seen it said that a factory Lexus LS400 paint job is equivalent to a $20,000 paint job. And again unless its all DIY, that would be like a gold nose ring on a pig, a good paint job costs unless you settle for a $299 macco job. Anyone that buys a salvage title car knows nothing about cars and car values period. Oh and they total and salvage title a car over a dent in a fender if its an old car. Here in my state it then goes to inspection and gets a sticker put on it that says you can go to jail if you remove it, so how can you ever even paint the door jam if you ever want to? Avoid a salvage title at all costs.

You drain and remove the transmission pan, and its found on the valve body.

As far as I know to exchange to the Nakamichi system you would need the proper wire harness and amplifier or amplifiers on gen 2 I don't know that series well, so it would be pretty much a total system replacement. I think the premium system sounds just great, but I don't blow out my ear drums like a kid would. I'm not a fan of installing after market junk, but if you do decide, keep the old head unit, and use the proper stuff to install it. That means no cutting or destroying any factory car parts, wiring etc. Then when it comes time to sell it to someone that wants factory original stuff you can return it to that.

Other than for cheap parts I would not buy back if totaled as you loose more $. And rather than take a small check and getting a salvage title, I'd forget the insurance money if the car was just a simple fix. Salvage titles don't sell cars. And on an other note, some of these cars are getting to the same status as a high dollar collector car so then what will insurance co's do?

And before I even looked at this post. The first thing to mind was likely the wrong fluid added.

So you checked spark when turning it by the ignition start switch? Or you just did the igniter test like on line? I'd suspect the crank or cam sensors, and need the way to check the signal from them. Ecu x2 as well.

How about grounds and the actual battery cables at the clamps where the eye is swaged on to the wire, if there is corrosion there?

How to fix. Easy you either buy a $1000 to $10,000. scan tool and learn how to use it. Or you find some body or some out fit that has one, and see what they say, if nothing else make sure to get a print out of the info. The codes can end up meaning nothing related to the real problem. Also you can get a cheaper real time reading scan tool / code reader that will show how the O2 sensor is acting. Or you can just start tossing money at it and change parts. Change the O2 sensor, first and see if that fixes it. Best to just change all the up stream O2 sensors that is 2 of them. If that doesn't fix all the codes then next the spark plugs, and keep working in that direction, if they don't clear the miss then wires caps etc.

Not a code reader but a top dollar scan tool can look into what is going on. That is the place to start. With out the scan tool it is then all guess work. When a code is set the problem is sometimes something other than what the code identifies as the culprit. Its a waste of time and money just guessing at it.

And I just noticed the original post was 2007, I'm not the one that resurrected it. He probably gave up.

No but it sounds like lots of fun. Please keep us posted on how that project goes. It sounds like a dash removal project, that and the whole HVAC unit, I would rather pull the engine and transmission and do a total transmission rebuild than fool with all that interior stuff, but I'd do it if I had to. You will need lots of tags, lots of bags, and lots of pictures and a manual will help too. Maybe you need to do a how to on an LS dash removal. To take it someplace to have it all done could run into the 2 to 3 K range I'd think. Lots of work and lots of room to forget a something here or there and have to re disassemble to add the forgotten part or what ever.

Yes on the gen 1's the upstream ones are quick and easy to get to. And I can't see your Gen being much different, that write up may have been calling the far rear one the first one I don't know. When I did my one car O2 sensors I got them at Rock auto, about half the price of local auto parts house. Its the way to go if you can wait.

Yes go Denso, and you will not have to pull the carpet for the front or upstream O2 sensors. Pulling the carpet up is for the rear or downstream sensors. I haven't done it but pulling the carpet may not be all that fun, that is to do it right, with out wrecking something. I would think to do it right may mean removing the seat or seats. But then I don't know all that much about the newer gen LS's, on the old ones the front or upstream ones are easy.