Exhaustgases

Good find for 500. How can you see that a clip is broken? And what is really going on with it? Is it like its still locked and nothing will unlock it? If it was me, I'd try to sell the car to the guy up in WA (me) for a 1000 profit, or remove the front seats and try to work behind a partially removed door panel, before just messing it up.

I do not know where it is in an SC. LS is in the trunk, if I remember right its on the left side, and may share the cars antenna, since there is 2 cables that go to it. Not real sure. I'm not sure of a way to reprogram the key, it should be possible since if you got a new one there would have to be a way to do it.

I don't think Lexus is going to tool up and make one that's different between the different model cars. It would be an extremely high cost for such a simple accessory. So logic tells me they would be the same. If you take it apart report back and let us know for sure. As far as the construction of the panel that it fits in that maybe a different deal.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html This is the first place to start. Let us know what you find out.

I thought only the master keys had the remote button. Since the problem could be the little transmitter in the key, or the receiver in the car, getting a new key may or may not fix the problem.

This may help explain the problem and how to fix it. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/488111-ls-cigarette-lighter-fix-tutorial.html

I just looked on a 92. There is no free wire there, just the loom, and yes it is also a Trac car. It looks like someone has torn into that loom and plastic conduit and exposed a bunch of the wires. Unknown why it looks like some are going behind the heater hoses towards the valve. Need a clear close photo of what is going on there. Would have been nice to see it all before everything was put back together. Okay even checked 1990, it looks the same as the 92. Where are the wires going behind that lower hose? Don't forget to connect the trac connector.

Define "Slugging".. ????

Landar originally posted this here. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/87225-engine-quit-has-spark-electric/#comment-487797 Maybe the efi main relay is not letting power through? If memory is correct that circuit opening relay is mounted on the ECU on the right hand side when your sitting in the seat. Also check power at the efi fuse that feeds the efi main relay. Check for power at ig2 at the efi relay. This is for your fuel pump problem. During normal low load with engine running the power for the fuel pump goes through the resistor. Even if the ecu was not powering up the fuel pump relay the fuel pump should still run because it looks like the relay is set to bypass the resistor when starting, and also does that for full throttle and acceleration. Its a 2 speed fuel pump.

Air pressure is better than vacuum, the check valve is supposed to let air in and stop air from going out. What you should do when you get time, is go to the Toyota site and look at the service manuals, tech bulletins. Did you ever check continuity from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump? Downloading the info here for a few day membership deal is way cheaper than trying to buy a manual. https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&SMENC=ISO-8859-1&SMLOCALE=US-EN&SMAUTHREASON=0&SMAGENTNAME=%24SM%24mT%252bGLraBu9CwUVnZg4mEDzB2kysT90hgbwsWgdZzNOc%253d&TARGET=%24SM%24https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F The first thing to check for heater problem is the valve just above the passenger side valve cover up on the fire wall. If you have some one turn on the heat and off you can see if its working. Other wise could be an air lock from low coolant and or a restriction from a bad hose.

This is the LS400 forum, not SC forum. LS400's have a problem with their trunk seals and leak water, I know nothing about the SC's. Headlight condensation same on LS400's, and can be fixed. Ignition switch ? could be worn some or slight contact corrosion from extended sitting and moisture. I think 3K is way too much for the problems it has. 1500 is better, but its really up to you and if you can do some of the work, its an old car and will have problems as you have discovered. I like the looks of the SC's, and would only go for a 400 since it does have the 1uzfe engine V8.

I saw a mention on another web site about a guy finding lots of vacuum in the fuel tank when the fuel cap was removed. There is supposed to be a check valve in the fuel cap per the LS400 manual. OBD2 would not have that because of the self vacuum check the system does. So if the fuel tank is not letting air in that could be a problem for fuel delivery after a 15 minute or so run time. Just something to keep in mind.

When doing the calipers take something like a plastic bucket and turn it upside down and shove it on the ground into the wheel well and use it like a small table to set the caliper on, use a few blocks of wood on top it to get the right height if needed. Using this you won't accidently drop or hang them from the hoses.

If it was what I'm looking for condition wise and options color, year etc. I would be interested in it. Only looking for 90 to 92.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html scroll down to pictures 10 and 11, it goes to the thermostat housing. It is labeled water by pass pipe. http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=764527&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&modelYear=1991&ukey_category=21746&ukey_trimLevel=19107 16278 is the pipe number

You could go with a low mile used transmission or a rebuilt one or rebuild yours.

Half ? all cylinders are affected by the t belt.

I use a vacuum pump deal to self bleed brakes, I do not like the helper method, never have. If you do change the calipers also change the hoses if they are the original ones they don't have much life left.

The tightness of the nuts should not affect a thing. Unless the hub is cracked for some reason. Most of the time any turning resistance is cause by the brake pad's dragging on the rotor. In the old days with drum brakes you would adjust them to have a slight drag. And why ask about air suspension? The only difference from the normal suspension and the air suspension is the shock strut, and the height sensor. There is nothing special on the air suspension that affects the spindle and hub stuff, its the same parts as on the non air suspension. Just thought of something else the flange could be out of center (axial centering, meaning right and left when sitting in car seat) with the brake caliper, and pushing the rotor into the caliper more when tightening. So was there any work done on the brake caliper like changing it? Or any work done of wheel bearings?

It could be something to do with the shifter/ switch, or shift solenoid. It worked then the oil / fluid pump must be working okay.

Must have some plug wires in the wrong spot? If it was good before the work, then either that or some bad new parts. Not much else it can be.

Make sure all the bat terminals are clean. And get a charger and charge it real good. Rule out the battery.

Have you checked to see if the timing belt was still intact?

Transmission fluid is way low. Or a mechanical problem like a bad oil pump.

Its good to have same car to swap parts with. Next try the air meter or some call it the mass air flow sensor, if you take it out of the aluminum body be careful reinstalling it, best to remove the whole airfilter and airmeter assembly to look in it when swapping, and if going that far just swap the whole unit. Other things to look for are vacuum leaks, egr, and the idle air control valve also the engine temp sensor just replace it if its very old.