bartkat

Where's the best place to buy Collinite Wax #845 Insulator Wax? Thanks.

Something slightly acidic like vinegar and water, or even lemon or lime juice will take off water spots.

I also just read that the SC400 was so unpopular that they only sold 1500 of them in 1999. It's a nice car, but by then it was quite outdated. I would think that would also be a factor in pricing.

No, it's not a myth. Some folks will argue about the sand bag, but it works. The key is to make sure the bag is tied down securely and as close as possible to being directly above the rear axle. I've done this with pickup trucks, notorious in snow, and gone just about anwhere I wanted in snow. Snow tires have sharp cleats, with wider spacing for grip and "self cleaning" treads. They are also made of a softer compound which doesn't get as brittle in cold weather and this helps traction on wet snow and ice. As with any vehicle, you need to leave plenty of room in front of you for stopping, go easy on the gas pedal, start out in a 2nd gear if you can, and take a good run at hills so you have momentum. Those would be the keys to snow driving, in my book. ← Thanks, that helps! Looks like snow in the forecast here. You know of a good place to buy snow tires and wheels at a decent price? I'll probably buy a set of 2 for the rear and some sand bags at a local home depot. ← Are you looking for an online tire/wheel store? Tire Rack is a reputable company with good service. http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp The reason you try to get the sand bag over the axle is so as not to upset the car's balance by having it clear at the back. I used to get bags of children's "play sand" and then put that into a plastic garbage bag to keep the sand from leaking out. When I had my Firebird I just put two cases of 9mm ammo in the back. LOL.

I'd stick with regular oil. I like Castrol. Been using it in cars and bikes for 30 years now. You might be able to fine an owners manual on Ebay.

Private party price should be closer to $8500 . $10,000 is closer to dealer retail. This according to http://www.edmunds.com/

Glad you guys got it working anyway. Also glad you have reported on the result. All too often people don't come back with those. You might be able to adjust that one headlight to a satisfactory level and then not to worry aout the self leveling. Just a thought.

No, it's not a myth. Some folks will argue about the sand bag, but it works. The key is to make sure the bag is tied down securely and as close as possible to being directly above the rear axle. I've done this with pickup trucks, notorious in snow, and gone just about anwhere I wanted in snow. Snow tires have sharp cleats, with wider spacing for grip and "self cleaning" treads. They are also made of a softer compound which doesn't get as brittle in cold weather and this helps traction on wet snow and ice. As with any vehicle, you need to leave plenty of room in front of you for stopping, go easy on the gas pedal, start out in a 2nd gear if you can, and take a good run at hills so you have momentum. Those would be the keys to snow driving, in my book.

The only fuel filter is in the tank. Unless it's really clogged, I don't think you want to try and change it. It's not in the recommended mainenance, I belive. It's a real bear to get to, based on those based on what those who have changed fuel pumps, etc tell me.

I also believe that the smell is caused by the fuel. The sulfur content seems to change even though you get it from the same supplier. I get the smell occasionally, but I learned to live with it. Also, I never had this odor problems years ago, before they used catalytic convertors. ← Back when we had 400 plus cubic inch engines and high compression and leaded gas, and carbs that you could adjust, and distributors you could play with and all those thiings you could easiily do to make a car run really good. Those were the days. ← yeah, but those old muscle cars didnt usually use leaded gas, my dads charger has "Unleaded Fuel Only" written right on the gauge, in the owners manual (he still has it) and inside the fuel filler door. so lead wasnt really a factor, even in 1968. (The car is a 1968 Charger R/T.) ← Oh well, I'm going back further than that, but leaded gas was still available, at least where I lived into the early 70's. The big inch cars I had experience with were mid 60's cars, such as 429 and 406 Fords, big Chrysler and Chevy engines, as well. BTW: The first unleaded cars hat had EGR and stuff for lower pollution ran like crap and got very poor gas mileage. This was before catalytic converters came along. I had a 72 Maverick 302 that ran like a bat out of hell at WOT, but ran poorly otherwise, and only got 16 MPG. You couldn't legally adjust the carbs or remove the pollution control stuff either. Those pre-converter unleaded gas cars would also knock and ping on hills and in heavy traffic. During a 2 or 3 year period there, cars just would not run like the cars from the unleaded gas days. ← ahh those were the days. i dunno man that #'s matching 440 can haul some !Removed!, but the other 44o we have is even better :). the "other" 440 has 426 HEMI heads set on it...among many other thinsg (including a custom S/C). but you are thinking of the 429 fords of old, the mid 50's right? ← Cars that ran relly good stock from the factory in the late 50's early 60's during the factory horespower race days. 57 Chevy's with close ratio 4 speed dominated until the Mopar typewriter shift automatic hemis's came along. I drove a '59 Mercury with a 429 that was really fast considering it's weight. These cars ran great, right from the factory, with few tweeks, no idle problems and were real streetable as well !Removed! just plain fast. Later on came the GTO's, Road Runners, Chargers, etc, etc.

E-brake Also older version was "hand brake". Lots of older cars had a left foot pedal instead of a hand lever so they were called "emergency brake" or "parking brake". I imagine there are other versions too, as we Americans are known for murdering the language.

I also believe that the smell is caused by the fuel. The sulfur content seems to change even though you get it from the same supplier. I get the smell occasionally, but I learned to live with it. Also, I never had this odor problems years ago, before they used catalytic convertors. ← Back when we had 400 plus cubic inch engines and high compression and leaded gas, and carbs that you could adjust, and distributors you could play with and all those thiings you could easiily do to make a car run really good. Those were the days. ← yeah, but those old muscle cars didnt usually use leaded gas, my dads charger has "Unleaded Fuel Only" written right on the gauge, in the owners manual (he still has it) and inside the fuel filler door. so lead wasnt really a factor, even in 1968. (The car is a 1968 Charger R/T.) ← Oh well, I'm going back further than that, but leaded gas was still available, at least where I lived into the early 70's. The big inch cars I had experience with were mid 60's cars, such as 429 and 406 Fords, big Chrysler and Chevy engines, as well. BTW: The first unleaded cars hat had EGR and stuff for lower pollution ran like crap and got very poor gas mileage. This was before catalytic converters came along. I had a 72 Maverick 302 that ran like a bat out of hell at WOT, but ran poorly otherwise, and only got 16 MPG. You couldn't legally adjust the carbs or remove the pollution control stuff either. Those pre-converter unleaded gas cars would also knock and ping on hills and in heavy traffic. During a 2 or 3 year period there, cars just would not run like the cars from the unleaded gas days.

I also believe that the smell is caused by the fuel. The sulfur content seems to change even though you get it from the same supplier. I get the smell occasionally, but I learned to live with it. Also, I never had this odor problems years ago, before they used catalytic convertors. ← Back when we had 400 plus cubic inch engines and high compression and leaded gas, and carbs that you could adjust, and distributors you could play with and all those thiings you could easiily do to make a car run really good. Those were the days.

Yep. I would confirm the clutch slipping diagnosis.

This is kinda funny. I had been running Chevron and then Raceway gas for abour a year in my 02 IS300 and never had that smell. Then I switched to Shell and still didn't have it. Last couple of tank fulls though on Shell I DO have the smell after pulling into the garage. Maybe this sulfur content thing isn't consistent within the same brands, or maybe there was a change in the gas for seasonal reasons. Anyway, it doesn't bother me that much, as long as I get parked and out of the garage quickly. :)

Glad you see the humor. The clip on cover at the airbox also sorta holds the air filter in. If you take that off, you won't have any filtration. That would be a no no. Right after the filter box is the Mass Air Flow Sensor. (has some wires coming out of it). The change in flow might cause the MAF to cause a malfunction light and your car won't run right. This also happens often when people put on aftermarket intakes that change the location of the MAF, and causes lots problems. I have found that the most bang for the buck is to install a replacement TRD filter, and then install a JoeZ intake pipe which goes between the MAF and the Throttle Body. This eliminates the big black inake tube that has all the resonator silencers in it. You'll get better air flow, less restriction, and a little louder intake sound at WOT, plus you aren't moving the MAF so no problems with getting error codes. After you do that, then reset the ECU and drive somewhat agressively for about 200 miles so the ECU relearns with the new parts and also learns "performance" driving habits. I have done the above and it works great. JoeZ has dynoed his inake tube and got a plus 8 HP. Anyway, that would be my suggestion for improved intake, without a liot of hassle.

Not sure which car had the dirty air filter, but resetting the ECU after changing the fiter and cleaning the TB might also help performance.

LOL...Bartkat, thats the same thing my uncle said today...anyway, i did take the initiative and sourced the part from a auto shop in the area and got it for CAD$150 :D I had a rush delivery on these and to my surprise they were BALLASTS! I must be lucky since this place was taking apart a 2000 GS400 and just so happens they had 2 of these "computer modules" which happened to be BALLASTS. All along i was thinking these were some type of computer module but apparently not. The part # that the dealer gave matches the serial # on the ballasts except the last 4 digits end in 0030 instead of 0031. Whats the diff? 0030 are original OEM non-refurbished ballasts where as the ballasts with the serial #'s ending in 0031 are refurbished ballasts from Toyota/Lexus. Im gonna meet up with SKperformance hopefully tomorrow afternoon and see if we can get my driver-side HID's back up. ← Good deal. I'm sure SK can help you. :D

Sounds serious.

Sounds nice. What does insurance say about the nitrous?

What do you mean by airbox cover? Want to make the car loud, without spending lots money, assuming you mean exhaust? Take out the resonator and weld in a straight pipe section or get a cheap Ebay bomb muffler and weld it on in place of the stock one. You might also want to consider streaming led license plate frame, led windshield washers, some nice mud flaps and other neat things like that.

Bartkat, if you come across this part and its less than the price i can get it for definitey let me know! I'll try looking for it online...but meanwhile im gonna try some trial and error methods and see if it maybe the ballasts thats the root of the problem. Yes Neo you're right...maintenance b4 mods...just hate sunk costs in maintaining a car...always a downer. ← I'm not looking for that part, you are. I have bought used parts online though at a good price. Just try google for used auto parts and plug in your item and see if you can find it. Take the intiative here, it's your car and your safety.

There are lots of places online where you can search for used parts. Proably less than half the price you quoted.

What do mean? <---- Newbie ← LOL. Congrats!!

Right, might even want to change even more often if it isn't driven much. Short trips and city driving are probably "adverse conditions". It's also a good idea to take a car out on the road once in a while and "blow the dust out of it". Run highway speeds in a lower gear for some distance just to sorta clean thhings out. You can probably get the oil changes done at Jiffy Lube or some place like that. Just be sure to use good brand name oil that meets specs and (I prefer) to use Toyota filters. I change my oil every 3000 miles or 3 or 4 months. Some think that's excessive, but I've done this for over 20 years and never had a problem with any of my vehicles.