bartkat

Toyomoto has a good record.

Oh, I thought you were asking about VSC. Even a novice driver would have spotted that trac button right away.

That just goes to show you that the dealership guy is as smart as we are.

The canister and other emissions parts are warranted for 100,000 miles?

Did you recently install an aftermarket intake? Sometimes people get the gas tank vent hose mixed up with the hose that goes to the valve cover area and get them switched. If not, the first thing to check would be your gas cap. If it wasn't put on securely it may giive throw a code. The simplest thing to do is to remove the gas cap, the put it on making sure it clicks a few times. Then reset your ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable (black wire) for about 30 minutes. Then reconnect the cable and drive the car. If the CEL goes out and stays out, then that was the problem. If the light comes back on , then you need to proceed to further checking. If you still have the stock airbox, look fot the hose that go into it at the bottom. There's one just under the inside lower edge near the filter that goes to the tank vent canister. Check those things out and let us know what happened.

Invision Power Board? Works pretty well I think. Get some sleep.

I'm just getting blank page where the pics should be on that site.

Cuban mafia? Yeah, sure. ;)

04's do that too? I knew the earlier models chipped easily. There are a variety of ways to deal with this, but I just use a little dab of the touch up paint supplied with the car. Some people get the front refinished and then put on one of the brands of clear film that protects the paint and is "almost" invisble. That might be the way to go if you can get the dealer to do the refiinish for free.

It does sound like it's the clutch thow out bearing. Maybe they didn't do the job right.

Could be lots of things. Tires may have a certain speed where they whine. Other things might be wind in the antenna or whistling through some body part or something. You might want to try driving on contrete, black top and other type rosds to find out if it's the tires. Maybe a better description of the noise would help.

Does it do that on all kinds of road surfaces?

The proper way is to disconnect the negative wire. And that's a resonator before the muffler. The muffler is a "silencer". again I ask, what was your baseline dyno and what is the RWHP now? I guess it's really results that count.

I don't get it? How did this happen? Did you run over the deer or did the deer run over you? :P I was driving up the road. 4 deer jumped from a knoll to the right. Two deer went across in front of my car. On deer ran into my passenger side door. The fourth deer ran behind the car. Deer ran into car, bounced off was dead at side of road. He hit my car. I did not run over the deer.

Turn it down. The other drivers don't want to listen to it anyhow.

How's the Big Dig?

If you're getting close to 20 MPG in town and 25 MPG on highway with an IS300 then you are doing just fine.

I had State Farm at that time.

Sometimes insurance companies don't apply the deductable when you hit an animal. I had a door replaced after it was hit by a deer, no cost to me. You might check on that.

There is a transformer that reduces power to the high beam headlights when the DRL's are on. I don't know where that part is on a ES but on a IS300 it's on the fender well near the main fuse/relay box near the battery. There is a snap-in plug going into the black box and all you need to do is pull that plug and your DRL's will stay off. Here's a link to a pic of the transformer box.

but we still hold on dont we.. ;) Yes, we certainly do. :D

Pretty slick, those old folks. ;)

The O2 sensors, being part of the emissions controls, should be warrantied for 100,000 miles, I believe.

What is the problem with the O2 sensor? If your O2 sensor has a problem, then the ECU may be running the engine rich to prevent a lean condition. This would cause poor gas mileage. Maybe try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes and then reconnecting.

You can go here and get a True Market Value based on your zip code, and the data you have on the car. http://www.edmunds.com/apps/usedmatrix/Use...x.research..1.*