bartkat

Yeah, that's an interface that can read all kinds of engine parameters and store them via a PDA. It's not just a plug in unit to get CEL codes. Your first post mentioned reading CEL codes. That's what we kinda thought you wanted. I think maybe if you get the shop manuals for your particular car, you might find out from that just what you need to read the codes. That's the way I would approach it. I had one of the little blinker thingies that plugged into the data port for my '94 Firebird, but I just don't know where to find one for your particuler car.

what would be the consequence of using a D2S application in a reflector housing? ← As mentioned before, the beam would not be focused, and light would scatter and as SK mentioned it would be blinding to oncoming drivers. The two different bulbs are made the way they are for the two different applicatiions.

The origninal bases are not the same. Some aftermarket people are using a universal base for D2S, so they fit D2R, but it's not recommende to use them in that application. I believe the strip is for the reflector housing, not the projector housing. The Philips Ultinon is a D2S with a 6000 K color temp, but again not good for reflector application.

I don't know about yours, but on the IS300 the computer module is part of the self leveling thing for the HID. I don't think it should prvent the bulb from working, because I doubt that the system would fail in that mode, leaving you with just one light on. Anyway, good luck. Perhaps it's just a loose connection.

Search.

Yes, I mean that no OEM manufacture even makes a 8000K D2R bulb. If you bought some made by someone else. they could be shoddy. The easiest way to find out is to put your stock bulbs back in and see. The two brands that I would stay with are Osram/Sylvaina and Phillips. As a side not, some places sell bulbs that they say will fit both D2R (reflector) and D2S (projector) sockets. The D2R bulb has a loingitudinal stripe down the bulb, where the D2S does not. If you put D2S in a D2R system you will get lots of glare and a poorly focused beam because that little stripe is missing. All the marketer has done is modify D2S bases so the fit into a D2R system. It will fit, but the function may not be satisfactory.

Just rev to about 5 grand and do a neutral drop. :D

stock bulbs? do you mean the original HID D2R bulbs? my car comes with HID's from the factory but I haven't tried putting my original D2R bulbs back in b/c i figured if my passenger side is working why shouldn't the driver side too? my passenger side is working fine with the aftermarket HID bulbs so im not sure why the driver side isn't? ← I find it's always better to look at the simpler fixes first. It's worth a try, rather then to dig too deeply into a problem that may be a simple fix. Some of those aftermarket bulbs can be pretty flakey. Some even run at higher voltage than D2R's, and could even burn up your wiring. And yes, I'm somwhat familiiar with HID as I drive an IS300. PS. There are some really shady, crappy aftermarket HID bulbs out there. I wouldn't use anything that's not a name brand.

This may sound silly, but have you tried putting the stock bulbs back in?

Waiit a minute, man, didn't you say "case closed" about 2 or 3 posts before that? Please to make up your mind. This indecision is getting really annoying.

Yeah, and besides that, Jeeps are really ugly. They always have been.

Having just read though this thread, I must point out that you contradict yourself from post to post, and even from paragraph to paragraph within some posts. I therefore can place absolutely no credibility in what you are trying to say. But now you are asking for someone to arbitrate your little problem here? Screw that. This is not to mention the fact that the thread originator never asked about a Jeep in the first damn place.

You really don't need a reader unless you are having a CEL or some sort of problem. Advance Auto Parts and places like that will read your codes for free, if something comes up. Finding out what the codes mean and how to fix then becomes a task. The best and first thing everybody ought to have is an accurate tire pressure guage. Tire pressure is probably the most neglected, but very important thing about cars. The best way to get things for your car is to just get what you need as things come up. Othewise you may be investing in some stuff you may never use.

What kind of races? There may have been an attempt or two to go TT, but it's not necessary to get the power you want. A stage 3 or 3.5 single turbo should do just fine. Or you could do an engine swap to a GTE engine and do even better.

If you are asking for help, here's some points. There's a TSB on the CD player. ( AU001-03 FEB 03 Audio System - CD Changer Jamming ) The dash rattle may be coming from somewhere else as sound does tranmit though metal parts and the source can be really hard to locate. You might be able to find it yourself with help from a passenger to track it down. Did the car have regular maintenance? Trans do require some service. Shocks and stuts do wear out. Most of the TSB's are listed at this url. http://www.alldata.com/TSB/31/01310815.html

Most tires will squeal in parking garages. The concrete is smooth, sealed and polished. Miy fronts will squeal if I turn hard in my garage at home, for the same reason. If your tires are squealing on streets under normal driving, then you have a problem. Most likely low tire pressure as mentioned in the above posts.

Get the one of Ebay. The wires are already cut and the connectors already in place. No need to spend any more. If nothing else, your electronics will get a better ground, and we all know that control systems need good grounding. My car shifts better and idles smoother with a kit. Don't worry about extra HP.

I know of some guys that use Redline. They swear by it. Haven't heard about any of the others.

Resetting the ECu will gain 8 to 10 HP without any mods. That's been dyno proven several times. How did your dyno turn out?

First time I ever heard Newton's third law called the theory of relativity. BTW. The optimum speed for mileage is 45-55. Above that speed, wind drag comes into play. Also drafting on the highway is extremely dangerous and should not be encouraged.

Burnouts? Youre killing me... ← Seriously man.

If you want to learn about TRAC, just leave trac turned on and try a couple of burnouts. That will show you real fast. Remember though, trac and limited slip dif. are two totally different things.

No clutch.

That's how I learned. <_<

Try keeping your illustrious weekend career on the track, and try to follow the rules while on the road and you won't have to be a Lexus terminolgy expert. Just gas up and drive, with no further attention needed.