AzHotLS

That's what I would say. I picked up a set of various size metric o-rings at Autozone recently when I needed to replace the o-ring on the radiator drain plug. I'm sure you can find one that is the same size and it should work fine.

His "other" thread has pics so I think he's taken care of. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=54323

A strut bar is also a device that mounts on the top of each strut tower in the engine compartment connecting the two to give additional strength/stability when cornering at high speeds. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...-brace-bar.html

Hmm, not sure if this will help, but I found this: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...wont-start.html Are you sure you have an immobiliser? I'll have to check my 95. According to the link above, only 97+ have them. This thread seems to confirm it: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...mmobiliser.html and this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=53379 hombre, your mechanic must not have connected something back correctly. Something else is causing your car not to start.

So your problem started after this? Try removing the negative battery cable for 10-minutes (or however long it's supposed to take) to reset the ECU.

Fluid level low? If it comes on after cornering or going up/down a hill, could be that you need to add fluid.

You can check out this article: How To Diagnose Faulty Starter I'd hate to be the one to changing/rebuilding the starter will fix the issue then it turn out to be something else. I only had my car about a month before the problem started. But it had significantly cooled off by then. Maybe temperature affects the voltage/amps/resistance the contacts in the solenoids pass through them. While not from a LS400, this thread has some great pictures showing the difference between new and worn contacts. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-...nt-2nd-gen.html With the surface area/mass of the contacts being greatly reduced on the worn contacts/plunger, it's not enough to keep the plunger in contact with the contacts to drive the starter, hence the click sound. It makes sense to me at least. If temperature does play a part, it takes a long time for the starter to cool off because it's in the valley between the cylinders. This could explain why it works better the rest of the day. Even with your "cooling down periods in-between" the starter is still warmer than when it sits overnight. I think I've seen other threads were the starter causes an increased draw in amps which could explain the voltage drop you're seeing. Again, this could be because of the reduced mass of the contacts. I'm not an electrician but I do know that you need larger guage wire to handle higher loads. To me, as the contact wear the guage goes up (smaller) and is able to handle less load. Ooooh..... here is another great thread I found with lots of pics of the contacts: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12746 Good Luck!!

http://images.google.com/images?imgsz=huge...tart=0&sa=N

Broken wire in the left trunk hinge cable harness. Many threads on the subject.

In your OP you said But didn't say if the battery was hot or not. I ask because I did a google search for "burning smell under car hood" and found this:http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r21282258-...attery-terminal You never know.

Tell them you want the "Idle Up Hose number 3", part number 17343‑50010 as shown in this diagram: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_199502_LE...GKA_1708.2.html But as CUMan suggested, any vacuum tube with the correct inner-diameter should work. It would be interesting, however, to see what the price is after you give them that part number.

On my 95 there's just a black button that turns the beeping on or off. It's on the drivers side lower panel under the steering wheel all the way down by the brake pedal.

Or you can give the screws a shot of Blaster PB Penetrating Catalyst. It works great. It was recommended when I was doing research before starting my Starter project. I even used it to get a screw loose on my single-handed shower valve when I needed to replace a washer.

Got it. Then you probably already know the switch number: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1991_LEXU...8.html?hl=84550 But with it, I couldn't find a diagram. Hopefully someone else will be able to help.

Not sure if this will help, but did you see this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=50206

Most likely a dealer item, part number 43512C for the front (4) and 43431A (4) for the rear: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1991_LEXU...3.html?hl=43515 http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1991_LEXU...EPGKA_4102.html

So it's just the dreaded click-nothing symptom? If so, then it's the starter. The solenoid contacts aren't passing enough voltage to start the car. I had the same thing happen recently on my 95 after it started to cool off. I replaced the contacts and plunger myself and all is better. The problem on my 95 is that I couldn't get the lower EGR pipe disconnected from the rear coolant bridge so I did it with the starter in place. (Shh don't tell anyone). I believe your 98 doesn't have the same EGR setup so it should be easier but it's still a weekend job. I bought the Repair Kit from Adam at Nations Auto Electric: http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html Here are a few links that helped me out: http://www.lextreme.com/dx-starter.html http://www.lextreme.com/starter.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-foru...ory-by-bdr.html http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=49611 http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml Photo of Lower EGR Pipe connected to the Rear Coolant Bridge on a 95: Photo of starter with armature assy removed: Photo of the new contacts installed in the starter solenoid (with the starter in place):

I just bought a 95 with 138,000 miles on it, runs great. A million miles? I don't see why not with regular maintenance and replacing worn parts as needed. How many miles a year do you drive? A new car if you drive a million miles, that's a good one.

Yes. Do a "premium" search through this forum for *many* posts on the subject.

The HVAC system is resetting itself after the battery was disconnected. It's going through all the settings and opening/closing dampers bringing it to an intial state. I believe it should only do it once though.

Thanks for the link. Note for other years: just change the year (twice) for your model year to get its specs.

It's illegal!!

Has anyone used 303 Wiper Treatment on a regular basis. Does it work? Is it worth it?

I found this doing a "powder based teflon wax" google search: The Problems with PTFE and Silicon Based Paint Finish Products And this: How to Protect Your Paint With The Best Car Wax

I guess it's not unheard of. I have no experience with it directly to say whether or not you should have it changed, but do a "timing belt contamination" google search for some links mentioning it.