AzHotLS

That's strange, is your engine an IUZ-FE? There is a label on the underside of the hood just behind the grill with engine type. It has a diagram showing the EGR-VM, while it's just a schematic, you should be able to locate it based on the markings.That is, unless, a prior owner removed it. Don't know why but you never know. YES, lexls.com is an awsome site.

For the cabin air filter, check out post #3 in this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...abin+air+filter

Several good maintenance tutorials at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/

Check out lexls's Lighting tutorials at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/. The ignition illumination tut has a link to superbrightleds.com, I'm considering getting some. I tried replacing the 74 bulbs with standard Sylvania 74 bulbs but found the bulb stems just a tad short and the bulb itself just a little too large so it didn't fit into the socket of the ignition or the glove box (at least on my '90). The superbrights look like they'll work.

Gumart1, yes, Monarch seems to be one of the resident experts when it comes to PS. Do a search on his name and you'll come up with lots of threads dealing with PS issues. I have linked some of them and ones that I've participated in. But to answer your questions briefly... 1) "What is the best way to safely clean both screens without damage?" I believe this is answered in one of the links. 2) "Where exactly is the rack solenoid located in relation to the rack?" Towards the drivers side at the 'gear box'. It can be accessed with the car up on racks. 3) "Can I soak the rack solenoid filter in brake cleaner?" Yes but just the tip where the screen is. 4) "And how do I clean the screen in the pump?" See #1. Ps Resevoir Inlet Hose, How do I remove? Solenoid pics in post #7 500 Miles From Home And Power Steering Going Out... Power Steering Solenoid, power steering I hope this give you more confidence to start your project. BTW, Monarch, what happened to your Lexus pics at saber.net? They've all been deleted.

Try cleaning the PS solenoid screen. There is a recent thread discussing this. After I cleaned mine, steering was much easier. A clogged solenoid screen will cause too much pressure to build up in the system and will eventually cause hoses/seals to leak.

I sprayed some WD40 on it first, let it soak in, spray again. I had the car up on jack stands (with jack still in place - you can't be too safe) and had to wrap one arm around one of the control arms for leverage. It was a bugger getting it loose but you should be able to do it. I used an adjustable wrench btw.

Adjustable wrench worked for me. I knew I had seen a thread discussing this with pictures and finally found it!! All the way back to Aug 2004: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=12024&hl= Post #7 has the solenoid pics. This is definately one thing to add to the yearly DIY maintenance checklist.

The picture in the first post is NOT the correct picture for the LS460!!!!! :chairshot: The link Who Cares posted is in Russian, HERE is an English version. Notice the second/lower photo showing the 2 cars, LS460 on the left, LS430 on the right.

The hot water flow valve is opening and closing all the way. Is it possible that it's still allowing water to flow when closed?

"I assume you mean something about the "A/C" has failed making it inoperative..." Yes, the compressor has a leak and am going to replace it soon, in the mean time it's windows down and roof open. I turn the blower on and raise and lower the temp, when I raise it, the servomoter does it's thing and the air gets hot, lower the temp and the air gets cooler again. So that part seems to be working to some extent. However, it's still not as cool as the outside air. I know it will be slightly warmer as the ducts and all are warm from the day and will warm the air slightly. But it's still too warm to let air come through the vents. I haven't looked under the hood yet to see if it's closing all the way. I'll do that and post back. "more than likely the outside air is mixing with the heat coming off the engine" Isn't the outside vent grill seperated from the engine compartment?

With my AC temporaily on vacation, and the evening temps finally getting cooler, I notice my vents still are blowing warm air. I have the vents set to fresh air, temp set to 65 but it still blows warm air. So much so that I just leave it set to recirculate and no fan. wwest posted this in another thread But I'm not using the AC or anything, just fresh air. Why are my vents blowing warm air? Am I still getting some of the air diverted through the heater? If so, is there a way to stop that?

Chris, you're a good one for asking great questions and initiating stimulating dialog, keep it up. Anyways.... have you seen the audio tutorials at lexls.com? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/

kewl, that's because the link has an extra http:// at the beginning. Right click on the link, choose properties and you should be able to select the url minus the extra http and paste it into the addresss field. LuxuryMods, you may want to get that fixed. It's the same in the buy white link as well. Also, your tutorial shows how to change the license plate lights but the kit only includes 4 194s for the doors, shouldn't the kit include 6 194 lights? What about the front side marker lights, anyone gone blue with those? If so, what about adding that to the kit? I believe they are 168s.

I know this is a long thread and I'm just getting in on it at the tail end. Can anyone add insight to my questions above. TIA.

According to lexls, they're H3C. Here is a tutorial http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/h3conversion.html

smc, what key words did you use? Edited: Never mind. I found it by doing a "+trunk +wire +short" search. Here is the link: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=3821

I haven't done anything yet, but I just left a message with Tech Choice to get a price. But first, if someone has any insight to the questions in my previous post I'd be most appreciative. Now for the new question.... I was re-reading this thread and noticed monarch's posting about the reseal kit, having read my posts, any chance this would work for me? About how much is a reseal kit?

Got it. Thanks, will take it under consideration. It's made by Dual, a division of Namsung America, model XP10B at PepBoys. Here is a link to its equivelent http://www.dualav.com/product_individual.php?main=23&id=402Obviously, replacing the sub with same is best but can you tell if this one will work.

Yes it does. It says P626 on the cassette door.The changer didn't have the cartridge when I bought the car, got one and the changer worked so-so, sometimes saying "error" (no code) when switching discs. Now it just clicks repeatedly and doesn't play at all. The sub cone separated. I found a 10" at PepBoys for $29.99 and was considering getting it using lexls's tutorial to replace. Specs on this thread. But if I can get a used original for about the same, even better.

Did you do it yourself or have it done at a shop?

Thanks guys. Ill see if I can get the wholesale price too. I understand when to do the evac then recharge, would the flush be right after the evac and before I start taking the compressor out? What if my compressor has internal damage? How would I tell if even possible? If so, does that mean I have metal bits and stuff in the system which means I should or have to replace the condensor?

99, I hope you don't mind but here is the link to the original PS Flush Thanks for the revisit. I did it following the instructions. As stated by others, the return hose was a bear to get off, I finally cut it off. What is bothering me now is the constant whirring noise. I suppose a rebuild is what's needed to fix that.

dcfish, do you just have one? I need a cd changer for my Pioneer also. How 'bout a sub-woofer, I need one of them too. See my post in this thread. TIA.

RFeldes/larryp, thanks for the vote of confidence, I may just have to give it a go!! I wish I would have read your post a little more closely, larryp. While they were checking out the AC, I was due for an oil change and had them do it, bummer. I can keep the filter and a few bucks of oil is a small price to pay to save a bundle. How much did you pay? I was quoted $106 for evac/recharge, $70 for freon and $69 for flush. Is that fair? Is the evac or flush still needed given the leak?I take it the o-rings are for the high and low pressure hose connections? While I'm at it should I convert to R134 as well? I've read the posts, it seems to be a mix on those for it (without changing anything else) and those against. Will PACE or anyone else want my old compressor or is exchange included in the price? As I'm typing this, it occured to me I should check lexls's site, here are 2 how to's: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/air/, which I thought I would add in addition to monarch's photos and lextreme's instruction pdf post. TIA. This is a super thread. It has just about all the information you need for replacing your compressor. Almost worth pinning.