AzHotLS

Thanks, I'll check them out but I'd still like to know if the speaker I found at PepBoys will suffice. I'm okay with cutting the original up for the mounting bracket if necessary.

Well, add me to the club of failed compressors. It worked fine on Saturday but stopped suddenly Sunday morning. I've read through this thread and the other A/C threads in this forum. A short while ago, I noticed something coming from the center vents and have an accumulation of film on the insides of the windows. But it has ben humid here lately as well as hot (all the time) so I attributed the "smoke" and film to that. Took it to the indie shop I go to said the compressor has a "massive" leak, not anywhere specific. They said the compressor, dryer and expansion block need to be replaced, to the tune of $2,100!! :cries: With $1,250 of it being the compressor . From what I see here, that sounds WAY too high. Rather than replacing the compressor, what are the chances it can be rebuilt. Since it just happened, do the dryer and expansion block really need to be replaced? How much should I realistically expect to pay? I've done some work on the PS from what I learned on this forum but I think this would be too much for me to tackle.

In case you didn't find this in your seach, lexls has a tutorial.

How do I unplug the torn sub? And will there still be any sort of bass coming through my speakers when I play any music in my car? When my speakers are up I can still hear fairly good bass but it doesn't seem like it's coming from my sub because that thing is just buzzing like it can't do anything. Does bass come out of any of my other speakers? ← I found a 10" sub for $29.99 US at PepBoys with the following specs 4ohm, 20-125w RMS power, 87db sensitivity, 375 peak power, 28-180 freq range. Will this one produce more volume than the Kicker model quoted above because of its lower power range? lexls has a good tutorial on replacing subwoofers: Lexls.com

Thanks. I look forward to hearing how you make out. In a previous thread, somone mentioned finding an open box deal at a store, so that's what I've been trying to do, no luck yet. At the risk of sounding cheap, I'd like to get one for about $50.

I have a similar problem on my 90 LS400 Pioneer, but I only get a "err" error message. It will play sometimes but mostly not. When it doesn't play, the changer does 2 series of rapid clicking, then err. It used to be that I could eject the magazine, re-insert it and it would play, now I'm lucky if I can get it to play. But when it does, it will play even if I turn of the car and come back later. When the CD is finished and trys to load the next, clicking - err. What is involved with refurbishing? I've removed the changer to have a look but nothing stood out as needing attention. Blake918, what did you end up doing?

John, Did you get the subwoofer from LexDiamond? I'm in the same boat (or should I say plane) as you are/were. If not, LexDiamond, I'm interested if you still have it. Anyone else got a spare sub they're willing to part with? Ken

johnls400, did you have to remove anything else to get the ps pump out? How long did it take (both remove and install)? I just flushed mine out but still is making some noise and was wondering how hard it was to remove before considering doing it myself.

Bob, thanks for the idea. I will keep an eye out for an open box deal. btw, mine is the one in the center rear deck.

My subwoofer works (sort of) but has a rattling sound. I removed it and found the cone is separating from the foam at the top. Can that be repaired or do I have to replace it. I saw the tutorial at the lexls site, but wanted to get some opinions.

While the power steering is still working wonderfully, I still have a whirring sound. Is that telling me the pump is going bad? Somone (not here) mentioned that there is an addative that is supposed to clean out the system which could help, any thoughts on such an addative?

My driver's sioe heater doesn't work either. I've been waiting for someone to reply to your post to help me out as well. Too bad no takers so far.

Do the flush and solenoid screen clean. I just did mine. What a difference it made. Hey monarch, I don't know if it's just me but your links don't work for me. I'm real interested in seeing your photos.

I didn't have to when replacing them on my 90LS400. I wouldn't expect you'd have to either.

Had to wait for the rain to stop before I could proceed as the car is outside. I ended up cutting off the hose as the only thing the screwdriver did was eat up the end of the hose. I just couldn't get it to budge. I used 3/8" ATF hose as Bob suggested. I bought 2 feet worth and cut it to length after I got lower end put on. I ended up using about a foot and a half to make sure it wasn't kinked. Before putting the new hose on, I used ATF fluid to "grease" up the inside of the hose and fittings at each end and held the ends over my droplight to warm them up. It was still hard to get on but it worked. monarch, to loosten the solenoid, I sprayed it with WD40 a couple of times then used regular joint (channel lock) pliers. I believe mine is a 10". With the car up on jacks with the wheels just barely off the ground, I wrapped my left arm around the suspension arm to get a good angle to grip and turn the pliers. I couldn't get the electrical wire connection off so I was just careful not to twist it too bad when unscrewing the solenoid. I pre-twisted it the other way before !Removed! it back on to make sure it was straight afterwards. To clean the screens, I used WD40 followed by Simple Green. WOW, that's what the power steering is supposed to feel like. I always thought the steering was a little stiff due to the car's weight. What a difference cleaning the solenoid screen makes. The car has 110K miles and I don't know if it was cleaned previously, probably not. Doing the flush seems to also have minimized the vibration I was feeling through the steering wheel. There has always (since I've owned it last July) been a vibration in the car at speeds over 65. It's almost gone now. When I have the opportunity I'll check the rotors next to see if they're warped and the cause of my vibration. I say that because when I apply the brakes lightly, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I've seen all the posts on vibrations but I'll start with the rotors before checking the bushings. I've attached two photos of my setup based on directions found at the lexls site: http://www.lexls.com/psflush.html I wouldn't have attempted to try this if it wasn't for this forum and the lexls site. It gives you the confidence to be a DIYer and a resource when you run into problems. THANKS!!

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the power steering reservoir inlet hose? I can't seem to get it off. I can twist it a bit but just can't pull if off, I'm about to cut it off!! I may have to anyway as in the process of trying, when I bend the hose just past the neck, I see a slight crack. If I do cut if off, how do I remove the lower clip? Can I just get any old piece of 3/8" hose and cut it to length or do I need to get the hose from the dealer? It's very frustrating that I can't get it off, especially after I spent so much time fighting under the car to get the solenoid off to clean the screens. I thought the hose would be the least of my worries.

At the tire shop, they found the bent wheel. It was on the front left, swapped it with the spare's which fortunately was a left wheel also, I'm happy to report that the vibration is gone. :D Now I can see how smooth it's supposed to drive. However, the TRAC light came on again! What's up with that? I barely drove 4 miles. Did the secret handshake not work to clear out the computer or is there something else wrong or needing adjustment?

I took it to the shop this morning. They said a little pinging normal, and based on the replies I got, I can live with that. Yes, I would have liked to have done the throttle decarb myself, but time is money as they say. The TRAC light is a carry over from before they replaced the sensor. The process to reset the code is different on the 90-91 400s compared to 92-94s. I didn't catch all of it but you have to short a couple jumpers and press the brake pedal 8 times. You can't be in the club unless you know the secret handshake. I'm taking the car to my tire shop now to see about the vibration.

I recently bought a 90 LS400 with 103,000 miles, I've put 4K miles on it and love it! This site has been a great help in getting to know my car, I've learned so much from all of your great posts. I Lexol'ed the seats, WOW! It is a great car and fun to drive but I have a couple of minor issues I tried to take care of that I need help with. I found a shop that specializes in Toyota/Lexus cars. I spent $844 having various things done (lube/oil, tranny flush, coolant flush, rear diff fluid, drive belt, throttle body decarb, and throttle position sensor) to get it up to snuff, but 2 things still linger. 1) The engine was knocking, but only when fully warm. I had the throttle body decarbed ($141) but it still knocks. I'd say it's 70% better but not gone altogether. What is the next step? Aside from the embarrassment factor, I'm concerned it's doing damage. I've seen other posts indicate it could be the valves. 2) The TRAC light was coming on ocassionally but usually only when ECT/PWR was on. The Throttle Position Sensor was replaced ($246). The light is still coming on, more frequently now, even with ECT/PWR off. Can the sensor be adjusted or is it bad as well. What next? I should add that one wheel is bent, the shop where I get my tires was able to balance it but I do notice a vibration when driving, could this cause anything related to the traction control system, I had them rotated when they were doing all this work but don't know if it is on the front or back (before or after). I haven't had time to get the bent wheel swapped with the spare's but plan to do so very soon. While I'm at it, 3) it was recommended to replace the tension rod bushing ($251), rear trailing arm bushing ($383)and oil pan gasket ($262). I told them to hold off on these. Will I need to replace the bushings before I put new tires on the car? I plan to do this in the next few months I don't see any oil in the driveway so I also said no to the gasket.