91LexusLS400

They shouldnt be erroded to the point of needing replacement, probably just a good cleaning. Pick up one of these lil tools or one of its' similar cousins and give the terminals what-for. Reconnect the battery terminals and you should be good to go. They're not corroded...the ability to tighten the terminals is gone. The bolt/nut is as tight as you can go, but not 100% tight around the post. The problem didn't start after the dead battery part, but I'll be resetting the ECM when I get to the new battery cable ends.

5 lights? I only get 4. I do not have traction control or air ride. Thank God. Now that you mention the ground problem, my battery cables/terminals are in need of replacing. I had to jump the car off the other day (door light switch stuck and left the lights on) and had to wiggle the connections on the battery for it to get good contact. I'll try here, then see what happens. The battery cables don't look like you can get them at autozone...what are my options?

Sorry for your loss, beautiful machine. Can you spell? Theta Delta, Baylor University Nu pledge class Spring 1994 Hi, sorry for your loss, I just bought a 2nd gen LS, and my 1st gen 94 is for sale, if you can stand white, after the black knight.

I've fixed the trunk wiring within the past year. My power steering pump is about 1.5 years old, but I'll take a look to see if it's leaking.

91 LS400 The battery, brake, coolant & oil lights of course come on when starting the car then go off normally. But lately I'll be driving and all 4 come on at the same time. If the cruise is engaged, it kicks it out of cruise mode but the cruise lite is still on in the dash. I don't have to be in cruise mode for the lights to come on. Sometimes the lights are constant, sometimes they flash rapidly, sometimes they flash not so rapidly. When I step on the gas they go out most of the time. If I step on the brake while they are flashing, they go to a constant...no flash. The car runs the same, isn't getting hot or anything...runs perfect. Theories?

Technically any car can drive any distance... all depends on how much you're willing to spend ;) This topic invariably shows up on every car model's dedicated forum. Now, original drivetrain? That's a different story. not really, i have two good friends that both have 1990 ls 400's one has over a million miles the other over 700000 miles, both have original motor and transmission, only add on's on the motor replaced air compressor, alt, water oump the body looks rough after going through two family members but both have had oil changes every 3000 miles timming belt changes ect. the guy that has the million mile car bought a new one at 250000 miles and gave the 1990 to his son in law, after a month he traded with him and took the 1990 back and said it was a better car.i really believe the 1990 was the best ever built, Three years ago I traded my dad a p/u I had for their 91 when they bought a new 06 Ls430. We too have had conversations about the engineering level of the original LS...we both agree the first generation has the edge. HOWEVER, the 06 is beautiful and very very much loved as well. My goal is 500,000 out of the 91, if not more. Fingers crossed...car runs like a champ with ALL original drivetrain. After that...the 460 sure looks mighty juicy.

Call your local lexus dealer and ask what all comes with the 400K mile service, and also how much they charge. :D My plan (when it should have 500,000) is to pull into Lexus and tell the sales person I want to trade it in. Just to see his jaw hit the floor. Then I'll pitch them a rental agreement to have my car in the showroom as a testimonial. Pretty easy sale when you can point to one and say "original drivetrain".

1991 LS400. I thought I was doomed after smacking a deer 2 weeks ago...354,290 miles with no indications of quiting anytime soon. I found a used grill and light assembly on e-bay. $200 and back in business. The light assembly was pushed back into the electric fan, but I just cleaned out the broken pieces so the fan could run free again. The hood needed a little pushing here and there to get it to line up with the fenders again, not perfect, but very tolerable. It could have been much worse. This car had it's first engine light about 2 months ago (O2 sensors replaced). Come on 400,000.

I found no broken wires, but the black wire had been spliced together before using a crimp connector. With the car running and looking through the rear open window. I was able to make the brake light flicker by moving the wires. I never got it to go out though. The wires looked good and didn't look pinched or pulled. This moring the cruise worked perfectly and eventually the brake light went out. But after about 15 minutes of driving the cruise let go as soon as the brake light came back on.

I hope you're right fish...I hope it's that simple. Get on tonight! THANKS! I thought the trunk wire only caused the gear indicator to act up? It sounds like this could be it...the brake lite goes off...then the cruise works again.

My fuel guage now reads full even after driving 250 miles, then starts to come down. The fuel lite comes on when the needle reads a little over half full. The brake light is on, but very faint (It will go off eventually). The cruise kicks off on its own and will reengage only periodically. The temp needle seems to read a little cooler than normal, even though we're in the 90s daily now. Guage cluster or deeper problems?

Used the lexls tutorial to replace the antenna on my 91. Went just like the instructions said it would. Best $18 fix I've done in a while (buy now on ebay). The best way to get it right is to remove the motor, take it apart and coil the cord up inside the motor housing with the antenna fully retracted. The set of instructions that the antenna came with tell you to feed the cord in from the top and let the motor take it by turning the radio on/off. It does take it in, but I could'nt get it to take it all the way in. Thanks again lexls.com

Yep, coil. Problem solved. Thanks for all the help! lol

Think I found it, bad coil. Delco part, huh...