lenore

Good job, I have heard of the resistor pack failing, but thank you for reminding of the fix for this problem.

I wonder if the drain tube is not located at the lowest point in the condenser. ???? Seems like a fix would be quite simple, find lowest point and have tube re-routed to the outside.

Probably the third brakelight in the back on the hatch back....The bulb can become intermitant.

I haven't experienced carbon buildup on my RX's That is way too weird in todays engineering of engines and fuel injection. I suspect a problem with fuel injection. Too much fuel.?

I would print out those fixes from Club Lexus and take it with me to the stealership....embarrass them....

He is trying to tell you that you probably have a bad Air/fuel sensor....pursue that first, than reset the codes and see what happens. The car is not junk, just having a problem...though when it has problems we all feel like it is junk....Follow the code for the first bad sensor,(air/fuel). There is a heater going both sensors which is wire in series, so if one is bad both will register a bad heater voltage unless you check them individually.

When you mean catch, did the starter actually turn the engine, or did you hear clicking.?

You know, I was a technician for 38 years, and I would walk in the door and whatever was called in would disappear. That being said, a good tech knows these things can be intermittent, so I would from past experience check out the usual problem areas hoping to find the culprit. However in the Automotive shops they work on job/rate hours. I too was rated by the time for repairs, but a long time ago I decided that the little extra time prevented call backs (repeat problem call). It paid off, as my customers knew that I gave it 150% and didn't try to bullXXXX them when not doing anything. My equipment ran longer between calls, and the uptime for the customer gave them more productivity, a plus for not only them, but also for my company because they didn't have to eat more time and expense on the repairs. Sorry for the long explanation, but basically there are those that have pride in their work, and want to make customers happy, and those that think their half jobs will get the customer out the door. Its hit or miss, but I would take it back for a call back, and maybe you will get a different tech, that knows what the fix is.

Don't bet on it. When I was buying shopping mine, I was negotiating for a CPO and they wouldn't even fix the headlights full of moisture.. Lot of that stuff is fluff.

Chief Petty Officer, Oh sorry was thinking Navy.... Oh okay Certified pre-owned....

expecially if you buy used (all depreciation done) and enjoy no car payments.

I previously owned a 1999 RX300 for 12 years and 188k miles before I sold it. never had any issues with synthetic and it generally is recognized as superior.

The fluid in the front and rear differential changed with a good synthetic will easily last 75k miles...

Yes, but note one thing, there is an additional drain plug on the transfer case which can drain an additional small amount of the transmission fluid. What ever you do, do not do a flush on this transmission, drain and fill only. approximately 4.2 quarts. Also note the transfer case and transmission are filled by filling the transmission thru the dip stick tube in the engine compartment. Read my post with link #2 above in this thread, the pictures are very good.

The transfer case and transmission share the same fluid, They are located on the left side of the vehicle. The differential is located more to the center of the vehicle up front and uses 80-90wt. Then there is a driveshaft from this differential going to the Back of the car in All Wheel Drive RX300's which goes to the real differential which also uses 80-90 wt. Front wheel drive only vehicles do not have the differentials. As for changes, I personally suggest drain and fill on the Transmission with Toyota Type IV or Mobil 1 Synthetic transmission fluid. As for the differential, they each take 1 liter of 80-90 fluid which quite frankly should be fine changing every two years....

That generation of RX300's had a lot of Transmission failure when not maintained. That is why the 15k miles changes, however Mobil1 Full synthetic fluid can be used as well as Amsoil, and some others that are compatible.

Not sure what you mean about bending the threads. If they are torn up or flattened you could take a fine file and carefully file in the direction of the thread path.

charming

Looked lot better on a old Dodge Charger....

yes, I have a hardcore GM friend, and I have over 25 years spent many hours fixing (helping) him with ridiculous problems from freeze plugs (really in California) to radio's that shut down the entire smog system in the vehicle. Government motors has gotten away with murder, yet Toyota payed hefty fines for their recalls. I guess the power of the union and our socialist government will protect those that should have been bankrupted and re-organized.

My table saw and all of my woodworking tools. Love making furniture. Also my 45 years worth of automotive tools including a wire feed gas welder, 12 ton press....and the list goes on...YUP truck sits outside......

I would decline the service, go to an independent. The manifold could be welded....Or get a used one from a junk yard.

That one is tough, but in the long run, wise by all your criteria. However I would have opted for used 2 year old car with great mpg....Than you wouldn't have had depreciation. Josh I have wasted thousands on new cars, and hence from now on (started in 2010) I will only buy used. The RX400h that I bought was 1/2 the price of new and it was only 2 years old. I know you have mechanical ability barring your disabilities and at least would be able to call all shots on mechanical things. Ok the old man is finished lecturing, and I am totally excited for your new wheels. Hey remember your incredible road trip in the Dodge.?? Best to you and wife. PS thank you again for your service to our country, God Bless all of our service men and woman.

I believe the tire total circumference would be the key...That can be checked under specs on TireRack.

I wonder if the shift lockout solenoid is acting up....That is the only thing I can think of in that area.