LA2Mead

We cannot find one of my master keys for my early '99 RX300. I still have the other (along with the original key numbers, etc.). I am looking for a less-pricey alternative to replace my original key with a quality, OEM-type product with programming instructions. I see there are lots of aftermarket keys available, but I want all of the original features to work, i.e. locks, windows, sunroof, like the original. A local locksmith quoted me $180 including programming, which I'm sure is less than the dealer. The funny thing is, he quoted the same price for my Subaru Outback which only locks & unlocks the doors (less complicated programming?). Has anyone sourced a less expensive full replacement key lately (not just the shell)? Will you provide the source? How do I program it (completely - not just to start the car)? Thanks very much!

I'm getting four codes from a new scanner I bought just for this purpose, and wondering if anyone can help me with advice to find the faulty sensor(s) to diagnose, clean or replace. Two of the codes are followed by a "P", and the scanner's documentation isn't clear. I think they are trying to say the code is "pending" but I don't know what they mean by that (either it is getting an error or it isn't?). P0125 P1155 P1150 P (pending?) P1155 P (pending?) (repeated same as #2, but as the fourth code with a P after it.) Using a chart I'm very thankful I found in another forum, I found these general descriptions: P0125 closed loop fuel ctrl insufficient coolant temp P1155 a/f ratio sensor htr circuit malf bank 1 sensor 1 P1150 P (pending? huh?) a/f ratio sensor circuit/performance malf. bank 2 sensor 1 My car is an early '99 RX300 (5/98) 2WD, mileage is +/- 130,000miles now. After some maintenance around 120,000 miles (timing belts, plugs, etc) got CEL and was told by a Toyota dealer "needs a new MAFS". I read other owners had cleaned it and reused it (and had done this before). So I removed my original MAFS and carefully sprayed it with CRC MAFS cleaner and the other loop on the MAFS (is that an air temp. sensor?). I replaced the cleaned (original sensor) and had no CEL error for many months. Could these codes be from the same problem (completely different symptoms) and it's time to replace MAFS and that's all it needs? Hey, if that's whats wrong, the car deserves a new one. Any ideas/advice which sensors I need to check or what might be wrong? The car runs fine, but I get a CEL trigger (The CEL stays on at restart, an error lights the "Trak Off" lamp) consistently after the engine temp guage indicates full normal operating temperature. The Trak Off light does not stay on after restart until full operating temp and something triggers the error, but the CEL stays on. Gosh those lights are annoying on a dark road. And it would be nice to have the "trac" stay on all the time in case of more rain. Thanks!

Yeah, my '99 RX300 is a little different. It has the factory "tow package" cooler in the RF fender in addition to the radiator, which was typical of nearly all of the RX300's. The 330, although similar, has a different transmission. The first-gen 300 trannys need all the cooling help they can get, as well as frequent service. That's why I added another external cooler in line with the factory "tow" cooler in the fender. The procedure you said makes sense.

I'm wondering if it's the sensor in the rubber cap sending a false "low brake fluid" reading or if there is actually a separate electronic sensor to report a low brake lining condition. Does anyone know?

I don't remember which is which. I tested the output a while back when I changed fluid and added another cooler and cooling fan. I should have labelled them with arrows so I would know without having to take the passsenger side front fender liner out to follow how I routed trans output and cooled lines. Either way, I think you can take the hose off one at a time and have a friend crank the engine to see which side pumps out, and which is the return. You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right even if it's hard to follow the lines back. If you find out, I'd like to know, too. Good luck.

My '99 RX300 2WD started doing this, too. Does anyone know if this is an actual wear sensor related? Could this indicate some other fault? Mine's not likely weather related since I live in L.A. and it's been 70-80 degrees, no rain (and no road salt, either). I'm wondering what it means, other than an expensive trip to the dealer. I'm not hard on the brakes. The original set got me 80,000 L.A. commuter miles and still had life, but the audible wear sensor squawking drove me to get them replaced when there was still lots of life left. I've never seen the "BRAKE" warning light come on after the parking brake is disengaged. Now with 130,000 (or 30,000 less than the original set) the "BRAKE" warning light is intermittently flashing with a chime. It goes out after a while (warm?). The hydraulic pressure is good when I hold the brake to the floor, stop the engine, and restart (school bus safety check). The master cyl. is full. The ABS and CHECK ENGINE warning lights test OK and go out once the engine is started. I'm looking forward to hearing your experience. Thanks!

I am the original owner of a first-gen 1999 RX300 (built May '98) 2WD, 120,000 miles, and lately the CEL light has been coming/staying on. It's been a good car; the underwhelming, benign-mushy handling and lazy transmission are my only complaints. About the CEL: I cleaned MAF and IACV, and used quality CRC EFI cleaner sprayed into butterfly intakes while revving; blew out till exhaust was clean, and serviced K&N engine air filter. Then I cleared the codes by disconnecting the neg battery terminal and pulled the EFI relay under the hood. The CEL comes back on after driving an hour or two, intitially with TRAC OFF (early 2WD RX300)and upon restart CEL remains on. After clearing, it seems to come on after driving an hour or two upon moderate (1/2-2/3 throttle) acceleration (freeway onramp uphill, etc.). I don't have the current CEL code, but 171 (System too lean?) was read the first time it came on. I'm taking it to my neighbor Toyota dealer and asking for sparkplug replacement, oil change and read the trouble codes again.Is the dealer going to say new oxygen sensors? Does anyone know the locations for each sensor? How many O2 sensors are there? I've done O2 sensors, etc. on other cars before. I just want to be prepared, because if it's a set of sensors I can replace myself, I'll save money on the parts as well as labor, and right now without an income I don't have extra dough laying around. Thanks Jay (So Cal)

Hi Rasta, Did the L and RX300 emblems work for you? If they came off pretty clean and you don't need the Harrier emblems I'll buy them from you... How much is postage to US/near Los Angeles? You can PM to me. Jay LA2Mead@socal.rr.com

My '99 2WD was getting serviced today at the very local Toyota dealer. The very experienced and otherwise trustworthy service writer said he had never seen Toyota or Lexus that had a paper element. He said all he new of are wire mesh type that they clean and reinstall, and said I must have some odd aftermarket filter that would be hard to track down. So I didn't have the dealer service the transmission. But I remember that when I went to a trans shop, the mechanic showed me my original filter and it looked like a cotton fabric "paper" element, and made a point that it was not the mesh one the parts manual called for. How do I know which filter to order? '99 RX300 2WD, with a Kyushu factory brand-new transmission (from 2004). Thanks folks...

This is great info. It appears the wiring info you provided is all outputs and power (am I wrong?) and there are also input cables not shown. I'm asking because I'd like to find the outputs from the head unit to add an aux input. Thanks for posting this.

I'm surveying all forum users: Do you buy transmission filters from the dealer? What source are you all using to buy transmission filters? Have you found they fit, that you got the right or wrong filters? How much did the filter cost? I have a '99 RX300 2WD, but the original transmission was replaced under warrantee with a factory new replacement (not rebuilt) in late 2003 that the dealer said was of a more modern design than the rebuilt units at the time. I'm concerned that I might not get the right filter, or are the newer filters all compatible? After they moved from the screen to the paper filter media, is it all the same part number '99-'03? P.S. I also added an additional cooler in the fender along with a 4" fan and a Hayden thermostat, and cut larger vent holes in the plastic fender liner. To keep the heat from venting back through the system, I did not move them in front of the radiator. Cheap insurance, I thought. I'm hoping this tranny will last longer than typical RX experience has shown. But this new one seems to be trouble-free. I never got that feeling from the original transmission due to the glitches it would exhibit, and how quickly it beat the fluid up.

It's pretty intuitive once you understand the few controls Lexus provided. I think they tried too hard to make it uncomplicated. You may or may not need them at the same time. The button with the two small icons is for the electic defrosters in the rear hatch window & side the mirrors, linked together from one switch. You won't feel any air blowing when you pick this switch, but the side mirrors and rear window should clear quickly. There is a separate button to select fan-forced air to blow on the windshield from the climate control, and you can select an appropriate warm temperature depending on the temperature outside. The A/C compressor defaults to the on setting in sort of a "dummy" mode. Unless you absolutely have to quickly dehumidify for only a short cool trip or you're in a warm, humid climate for any duration, it's best to de-select the A/C compressor (the blue A/C light will go dark).