ylekiot1

You need freon. I had the same issue when I recharged mine a few days ago. After my last post on this my wife also stated that it ran only when it was cooler outside. My system Sunday had under 5 pounds of pressure in the system instead of 35-40 (70 degrees outside temp). After recharging the system it dawned on me that there might be a reson for that happening after seeing the chart on the freon bottle with the recharging instructions. It has a scale of pressure limits and ranges to recharge the system. With the warmer outside temperatures during recharge you have to get the ac system to a higher pressure to have it "completely charged" than when you have a lower outside temperature. Outside Low side Pressure Range Temp 65 25-35psi 70 35-40psi 75 35-45psi 80 40-50psi 85 45-55psi In a nutshell.. That means that the ac system pressure is lower during operation when it is cooler outside. The ac system will not turn on if there is not enough freon to protect the compressor. I am thinking that more freon is needed in the system to get it to run under higher pressures and temps. I'll bet you are at that fine line of freon left in your system to make your situation happen. I am 100 percent positive. Take a look at one of the bottles at the parts store that has a chart and you will see what I mean. I have recharged it twice now without any issues. In my opinion, a $12 can is better than a dealer guessing and spending $$$ to try and fix the issue. Nobody at this point can tell me where it is leaking so I am willing to take the risk of doing it myself every couple of months. If you decide to do it, just be sure to add freon and also PAG oil to keep the compressor lubricated. I dug up the manuals Sunday to do mine so if you need particulars, let me know.

I remember that there is a green cap connector to the AC freon line at the back (closer to the passenger side) of the engine compartment. That is the low side freon connector. There are procedures for charging the system in the shop manual. Maybe someone here has the directions posted on the website somewhere. I would, but I don't have a scanner and the books are boxed somewhere since the move. I just saw this and will add it to the post. This has a picture of where the connector is. http://www.saber.net/~monarch/acrecharge.jpg

I got universal sensors from oxygensensors.com and soldered the connectors from the old ones to the new ones. They also sell the ones with the connectors but for alot more $.

I'm guessing that you don't have the shop manuals that tell you how to obtain the codes from memory? If I remember right, there are two specific wires in the diagnostic connector under the hood that need to be jumpered. Then the computer flashes the codes for you. The codes then will tell you what is wrong by matching the listing of error codes in the book. There might be something on this site of someone that might have already posted the "how to" on this. My manuals are still boxed from the move and I don't have a scanner. Don't try it unless you have the exact instructions. Good luck.

http://www.taprecycling.com/ Bought a brake cylinder from them for my 90. Instead of paying 400 retail for new, bought used for 75$ (which included shipping). VERY happy with them.

Shaggz is right. I had this issue with the groaning and power steering fluid loss on my 90. The air idle swith on the power steering pump was bad. It pumps air to the air intake manifold when the steering wheel is at full lock to increase idle speed to offset the engine power drain from the PS pump. Your fluid is leaking into the air hose that goes from the bottom of the power steering pump to the front top of the engine and the fluid is burned off during combustion. It is the small single hose at the front center top of the engine. Pull off the hose. If there is fluid lining the hose in there you will see/smell it! I AM POSITIVE THIS IS WHERE IT IS GOING! This is talked about in previous discussions all over. I had that air switch replaced and the groaning is gone and the fluid stopped disappearing. I think the groaning was caused by the air getting into the power steering system due to the leak between the two components. Anyway, when they replaced the switch, the also got the air out of the power steering system. The steering is dramatically better since this was fixed and the noises are gone. I kept adding fluid for awhile after I knew what was wrong and where it was going. I can't say for sure but I think the power steering fluid over time fouled out my O2 pre cat sensors. They failed during this time period when the PS fluid was being burned off during combustion before I finally got it fixed. On a side note, I never saw any white smoke from the exhaust at startup even though this was leaking and burning off. I hope this solves your issue as it did mine! B)

I just had mine replaced. came as a whole unit. 455 Parts and Labor at Lexus only repair shop. Problem is starting to crop up on cars as they hit about 200000. Mine just hit 200 K.

Turned out to be something like the fan bracket assembly had a bearing incorporated in it. Bearing went bad. If it goes bad it goes bad quickly. Started hearing ticking, then rattling then GRINDING! Car was quiet and 2 miles later had rattling and grinding bearing noise. My mechanic is a Lexus only mechanic and is VERY good here in Overland Park, Kansas (exactauto.com) and says this is a problem just starting to show up on the 90-94 models with some miles. If it does the above with grinding noise PARK IT! If it goes out while on the highway you might have more damage to other components, (flying metal does that), meaning more $$. Mine just hit 200,000 miles. Another issue to look for. Car also had the idle air switch on the power steering pump going bad too. The switch sends air to the intake manifold when the steering wheel is at full lock, putting a load on the ps pump and engine. To compensate the increased load and to increase idle to what it should be, the air from the power steering pump air switch increases the idle speed, offsetting the load. When the air switch goes bad, power steering fluid slowly goes up the vaccuum hose into the intake manifold and burns off as a white smoke in the exhaust at startup. Got the car back today. Running great. Looking to get the next 200,000 miles. Cost me 700 for both though (455 fan assembly) 250 ps air switch (P & L).

I just realized that maybe the power steering pump leak from the air idle valve on the power steering pump might have caused my alternator to fail. I noticed the leak a few weeks ago and haven't had time to take it in. Has anyone had the alternator fail with these types of noises?

Compressor was off. Also it occasionally rattles too, if that helps.

Here's the deal. I was on the highway and exitied and after I made a turn i noticed ticking on accelleration. After I parked the car I heard grinding. The engine seems to be running fine, no lights are on, fluid levels were ok. I had to drive the car 2 miles to get somewhere safe. Occasionaly the noises would come and go. Any ideas? When I got to a place to park it, the noises are more consistant. More grinding than anything. Car temp was fine, no fluid leaks from under the car. Timing belt replaced 40K ago. Car has 200K. Car idles fine, just seems to be under a little load. I am hoping it is a bearing of some sort? I had it towed but am dreading the news. Ideas?

Don't know what year you have but mine is a 90 and I had the same issue. The drain pipe form the power antenna is SUPPOSED to run down to the lower drain below it. I found that the pipe had come out of the drain and was running water into the lower left trunk portion. Once that got full it would run into the tire compartment in the center. Take out the floor panel and the left side panel ( you will have to remove the screws around the tool box)(check the right too if the left isnt having a problem) along with the floor plastic side inserts. Hope that fixes it for you.

ebay has them jaggraveyard is the seller. I just bought some a few days ago from them. jaggraveyard.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33688

one is for sale on ebay until tomorrow. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

one is listed on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

Trouble codes 25,26 coming up on my 90 LS400. So I am replacing my pre cat 02 sensors. Thought about replacing post cat sensors (no trouble codes triggered on those). Mechanic tells me that post cat 02 sensor failure is uncommon and that the pre cat sensors is all I should replace. Do you agree?

Good call Jim, I didn't even check the year of his car. I am sure you are correct that it is not in the same place or the same type in his 99. The newer models from 94 on don't have the lock system that is in the 90 to 93 models.

This is Toby. I bought the car from Jim. When at the back of the car, the box is located farther back in the trunk behind the power antenna. It is not the box right next to the antenna. It is the next one. In order to get there, the left trunk side cover needs to be removed. To do that remove the screws around the toolkit (open the toolkit), there is four I think and then you can remove the cover piece and toolkit(both will come out as one unit). There is a metal piece of the car frame that separates the antenna assembly from the remote module. There will be two nuts on that metal piece that hold the module onto the frame that need to be removed and then you can bring the box through the frame opening. The ROM piece that comes paired with the key is in the side of the module. This ROM piece is about 1.5" x 1.5". Be very carefull when handling this ROM Pull it out gently and re-seat it. Be firm but do not break it by pushing to hard. If that doesn't work, there are other diagnostic steps that are in the shop manual that I can email you. Let me know.

I am not affiliated with this site. I bought a used master cylinder from here and was pleased. Try a quote from this place. http://www.taprecycling.net/

I had hesitation and the transmission didn't seem to be "talking well" with the engine on shifting or significant accellerator changes. Seemed to shift hard thinking i was getting on it when i wasn't. On a whim I adjusted my throttle position sensor. Problem solved.

the guy i bought my car from had the same issue right after he bought it. turned out to be either a bad battery cable or ground cable.

I think you sold a car (if it was taken care of) with 2/3 of its drivetrain life left. Why the switch to a 95?

This site is excellent for salvage parts. I got a master cylinder here for 50 bucks. I have the 1990 lexus and they redesigned the brakes soon after (they were weak) so finding a new master cylinder for my car (pre 8/90 production date) was nearly impossible. Dealer wanted 350 for a new part. Can't say enough about this place. http://www.taprecycling.net/

Yes, the early models had the cloth and leather was the option. I have a 90 white Lexus with the blue cloth interior. I love it since it is different...

I was wondering how to easily test these components. I see that getting to all of this to physically look at it is quite a job. Ideas?