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ylekiot1

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Everything posted by ylekiot1

  1. Found a 2006 GX470, at 189k miles. I see the previous owner went to lexus and I have full records per the lexus site. The 180k service (90k) was just done months ago. Everything works. The car cv joints were replaced, alternator, calipers, brakes, exhaust gasket, and the notorious gas cap in the last 40k. Only items needing attention are tires, rock chips in paint near the grille and the leather cleaning/conditioning. No excessive rust on the underbody. I have another 04 at 165k, going strong -got it at 130k, Lost another 04 in an ice accident, had it from 90-165k, no issues there either. I think I am tempted to buy it, regardless of the miles due to the history. It has lexus link and dvd. Would you pay 11 for it?
  2. Hi all, I have a 90 ls400 with a noticable noise, inside the cabin only, not from the engine area. It sounds similar to the fuel pulsation I heard from the bad fuel damper I replaced years ago in the engine compartment. But this is near the middle to back of the car that I hear when in the car. I think it is the fuel pump or something related. Has anyone had anything similar happen? I don't want to replace the pump unless I am sure that is the issue. Could it be something else?
  3. Hi, So I am guessing you took off the two bright silver nuts that hold the module to the car. If so, now try to pull it out a little to look at both ends of the metal module. On one end is a white box looking item attached to the metal module. That white box will be labeled "noise filter". Now, at that same end but on either side of the metal module you will see black tape covering the side of the metal module, under that tape is the rom card I pulled out and pushed back in to re-seat. That card is sold with the key and they match frequency. There should not be any programming involved for the 90-93 model years. One more thing, be sure the dash switch for your remote lock systen wasn't hit by your knee and is in the the off position. Also verify your key battery was installed correctly. They key sensor is in the rear glass so put the key close to it as well when testing to rule out radio interference affecting your key range. If this doesn't work, we need to go through the key test to make sure it is working (let me know) and then go from there. Toby
  4. Is your ignition fuse set well in the fusebox under the dash? I had an issue and found mine wasn't set well. Wouldn't start at random.
  5. I am fixing my rear stabilizer bar (rusted through and broke at a bushing but still held together due to the bushing.) and bushings tomorrow for a problem that sounds very similar to yours. With the bar problem, The LS ate the tires on the inside like yours. The car seemed very unstable in bumpy situations and lots or body roll until I realized what had happened. I would check your bar, bushings and your rear stabilizer bar links if this sounds similar to what you are experiencing. Check the front ones too. New bushings are a very cheap and very noticeable modification to handling from what I have heard. They are available from TM engineering. I have 280,000 miles and going strong. Good luck.
  6. Darn, looks like I am out of luck with the 04 gx470.
  7. I had this issue with the locks not working on the car (1990). It turned out that the frequency module (in the receiver module in the trunk ) that matches the key electronics was loose. It worked after reseating the module in the receiver unit. It is to the right of the antenna assembly in the trunk. I did this first to make sure the key works. The shop manual says to turn the radio to a low fm station (I don't remember the specific frequency). 88-92? Get the car in a location where it does not get any low frequency stations that might interfere with the car key. Go through the frequencies one by one and then push the button on the key. You will hear some interference (it is slight). If that works for you the key works. Then move to looking at the module in the trunk. I have the shop manual and can give you some pointers if you like. I just sent you a pm with my contact info.
  8. try this www.sfxaudio.com, they carry a kit for the 90-94 LS400 as well as the wiring harness so you don't have to cut any wires.
  9. Plugs and wires have been regularly replaced. Caps and rotors are probably original. Car has 230K miles. To do the caps and rotors, it looks like I have to drain the coolant and such. Yuck. I'll check the mounts then go to the cap and rotor and then check the coils. Thanks.
  10. First off the idle control valve works, After it warms up you can see it lower the idle, then some more, then some more. I know that is working. I have looked over the whole fuel/ignition system that is easy to get to. No luck. I have the shop manuals and have gained nothing from them. Coil? Cap? Rotor? Wires are a year old. Plugs 40K. Car drives fine. Just the vibration at idle in gear. Is it quite noticeable.
  11. I found a generic thin filter in the section around the breater elements and PCV valves. Cut to fit. Very simple and cheap.
  12. Looking for tires, comfort is the priority. I have winter tires so all season tires isn't as important. Have a wife with dizziness so the better the ride, the better off we both are. LOL Thanks. I have looked at tirerack.com, but wanted your actual "ride" experience with your tires. Anyone do sizing changes? Anyone recommend that?
  13. sounds like a common problem you will find elsewhere on the site. You have a short in the wiring in the trunk hinge. Looking in the trunk, it is the hinge on the left. UPDATED- Looks like I was just beat to the posting by a few minutes. 1990ls400, you're quick!
  14. I have a white 90 LS 400 with the blue cloth interior. A collectors item? I know they were only available in 90-92. I have yet to see another one. It is nice. Anyone else have one?
  15. That may be normal if you are working on it in a garage with very little light. If there is a problem with a sensor do this. I remember reading that if you think if there is a cabin temp sensor or solar sensor giving you problems you can bypass them to see if your AC system works by setting the temp to 65 degrees. That temp setting bypasses those sensors. If the AC works on the lowest temp setting and nowhere else, one of the two sensors is your problem. Hope this test takes the sensors out of the equation.
  16. Take the battery or the whole car to a shop that can test the battery. If it checks out ok you might have something draining the battery slowly. Only way to find that is to figure out which fuse is pulling current with a voltmeter when the car is off. Or it could be a VR problem. Anyone know if the Voltage Regulator is in the alternator? That might be something to check as well. On a side note, if you have a battery that has removeable caps, make sure there is liquid in all cells. I had a car that ran hot in which the engine was near the battery and would over time evaporate most of the water in the battery cells closest to the engine. I had to fill the battery with distilled water once during the summer and then the battery was good until the next hot season. Most new batteries are sealed so you may not have that going on. Good luck.
  17. I think you might have a sensor sending the wrong information. I was looking at the shop manuals last night for a TPS issue and remember skimming across a sensor relating to RPMs. I think it also mentioned if it was bad that some codes would be triggered. Is the check engine light on? I'll post this evening and let you know what I find. I hope I am not off my rocker here.
  18. I found a generic basic square filter about 2 inches by 2 inches, quarter inch thick that I cut to round size on mine. Found it in the pcv valves/breather elements section right next to the air filters at the parts store.
  19. for the cig problem, check this out. It fixed my same issue. The fuses are probably not making contact in the fuse box eventhough they are in all of the way. Take out the fuse and slightly bend each prong away from each other and put it in. Just fixed my cig lighter and wipers. two fuses, same issue. Good luck.
  20. Just fyi, I have had electrical issues that I haven't had time to tackle until recently. The cigarette lighter was not working and the fog lights weren't as well. Well Tuesday the wipers would not come on in a downpour. Wife was not happy. Needless to say I found myself with plenty of time rather quickly to fix this. LOL. I found that both of these fuses were good for the cig and wiper. However, they were loose and had a bunch of play in the fuse box. When I would wiggle them, like a loose tooth, both circuits started working. I ended up pulling the fuses and bent each prong opposite directions slightly to make better contact. The fog lights still aren't working so I suspect on the opposite side of the fuse board that the relay is corroded. If you have any electrical gremlins try this out first. May save you some trouble.
  21. Did mine (1990 lexus) by ordering the universal sensors (crimping the wires with the wire harness off of the old o2 sensor is required) off of oxygensensors.com Went to Autozone and checked out the o2 sensor tool (15 refundable deposit) 95 each for oem for sensor and lexus harness (no crimping required. Just plug it in) OR 47 each for universal (which I did) crimping required The hardest part is getting the wire harness unplugged/plugged due to the tight spaces.
  22. The failure of the heating element on my o2 sensor caused my code 25. That is usually what the issue is. I had midas break loose the o2 sensors ($20 charge)and took it home and did the work myself. I went to autozone and borrowed the o2 sensor tool ($16 refundable deposit). The 02 sensors can be bought at OXYGENSENSORS.COM (universal o2 sensor in which you have to crimp wires to your wiring connector from old sensoror or you can buy the more expensive ones with Lexus connectors) The hard part is putting back the one bolt that holds the passenger side wire harness (if you choose to unbolt it to help disconnect the o2 sensor) Not much room to work with. It is a pain. Good luck!
  23. If I remember right, the 90-94 models are not the standard Odb1 interface. In a nutshell the diagnostics devices at the auto parts stores will not work. My car (90) has a diagnostic interface where you jump a connection (of many) on your diagnostic interface under the hood and your system check engine light will flash and give you the code. I did the following on my 90 to get the codes. Had a bad o2 sensor. Code 25 Engine diagnostics can be run by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between E1 and TE1 terminals (for location of terminals see the label inside the diagnostics connector cover) The manaul states it is the two X's below. __________ |OOX-O-OO| |OXO----OO| |OOO-O-OO| --___--___-- Can anyone confirm that the 91-94 models have the same procedures for pulling the codes? I also found this with the codes. http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:ityUX...r&hl=en&start=1 The codes are almost identical to what I have in the manual. (It also states it is for 90-94 models.) Page 46 chapter 5 I would scan the instructions and codes from my Lexus shop manuals but my scanner is broke. The codes will flash with the smaller numbered code and then larger (if multiple codes) for 21 only you would have flash flash (short 1.5 second pause) flash (long 4.5 sec pause) and it would repeat for two codes the same as above but instead of the 4.5 second pause it would be a medium pause of 2.5 seconds between codes before the next code would start. after all codes are gone through it pauses 4.5 sec and repeats all. Good luck!
  24. Yes, go here : http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html
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