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Warped Rotors


dole2000
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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Hi, when I bough the Lex I actually had warped rotors as well. I bought those Brembo rotors , and they have been performing great ever since I installed them. Just my guess here is that, those Napa rotors you bought are not top quality, so every time they heat up they start warping, also those Brembo brakes you bought on ebay?! Well, they might not be genuine Brembos, unfortunately there is a lot of fake stuff out there on ebay, I have been dooped as well once by someone with great feedbacks. By the way, did you install those 2 screws on the rotors? They serve to center the rotor itself on the hub.

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If they are aluminum rims be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts or else it's just a guessing game... and the rotors will warp.

I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Hi, when I bough the Lex I actually had warped rotors as well. I bought those Brembo rotors , and they have been performing great ever since I installed them. Just my guess here is that, those Napa rotors you bought are not top quality, so every time they heat up they start warping, also those Brembo brakes you bought on ebay?! Well, they might not be genuine Brembos, unfortunately there is a lot of fake stuff out there on ebay, I have been dooped as well once by someone with great feedbacks. By the way, did you install those 2 screws on the rotors? They serve to center the rotor itself on the hub.

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dole, when you come to a stop, especially if it was a heavy stop, pop your car in N, and take your foot of the brakes. Let some cool air get in between you pads and rotors to prevent hot spots on the rotors. Several warped rotors weren't warped due to the actual stopping of the car, but due to the owner keeping the pads pressed against the rotors while he/she was stopped, which prevented the heat still in the pads to be displaced through the turning rotor, but rather directly into that one spot on the rotor. So, just pop it in N, take your foot of the brakes and let some cool air get in there, and some of those super hot gases to escape! :cheers:

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dole, when you come to a stop, especially if it was a heavy stop, pop your car in N, and take your foot of the brakes. Let some cool air get in between you pads and rotors to prevent hot spots on the rotors. Several warped rotors weren't warped due to the actual stopping of the car, but due to the owner keeping the pads pressed against the rotors while he/she was stopped, which prevented the heat still in the pads to be displaced through the turning rotor, but rather directly into that one spot on the rotor. So, just pop it in N, take your foot of the brakes and let some cool air get in there, and some of those super hot gases to escape! :cheers:

I never thought of that, good point!!

JT

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Most rotors are warped because of improperly installing the rims and wheel lugs. Look up the specific torque and then install the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Are you installing the lug nuts in a cross patter? If not this is why you are warping the rotors that is the number one reason for warped rotors.

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The dealer had to replace my front rotor 3 times on my Honda Odyssey while under warranty. The warranty expired , and i just replaced the rotors with Brembos' on my Honda too. Two years later, still no warping... so was this because of bad installation? I doubt it.. hot spots on the rotor? Possible.. ! But alot of times those warped rotors are just defective, or not the best quality whether they are OEM or not. Just my two cents.

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Dole:

When you bleed the lines, there should be a consistent amount of fluid that comes out of each line (relative to the others). If one just "piddles", then you could have a pinched brake line on that wheel. That will cause the caliper to drag on the rotor, which will cause the rotor to get excessively hot, which will cause rotor warping.

After driving for a bit, stop the car, get out, go around to each wheel and feel the wheel. If any of them are hot to the touch (particularly after NOT using or lightly using the brakes), then you have a dragging caliper. The caliper can drag because it needs to be rebuilt or because the brake line is pinched. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into buying new calipers. It's easy and inexpensive to rebuild the stock ones.

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Dole:

When you bleed the lines, there should be a consistent amount of fluid that comes out of each line (relative to the others). If one just "piddles", then you could have a pinched brake line on that wheel. That will cause the caliper to drag on the rotor, which will cause the rotor to get excessively hot, which will cause rotor warping.

After driving for a bit, stop the car, get out, go around to each wheel and feel the wheel. If any of them are hot to the touch (particularly after NOT using or lightly using the brakes), then you have a dragging caliper. The caliper can drag because it needs to be rebuilt or because the brake line is pinched. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into buying new calipers. It's easy and inexpensive to rebuild the stock ones.

I second that!!

Thread, would you think that a rim with excessive brake dust on it could also indicate a dragging pad? When I redid my fronts last month "thanks to your awesome advice!" I noticed a lot of brake dust on my front, driver's side, which was also the one that was squeling in reverse. Now after the rebuild, no brake dust what so ever on the front wheels. I actually have more dust on the rear wheels now, than the fronts... haven't serviced the rear ones yet...

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Sometimes the dragging caliper will get so hot that the wheel turns yellow. But when you stop the car put your hand on one wheel then the oposite wheel. they should both be equal heat wise. If one is a lot hotter than the other then the caliper is hanging. Probably a rubber brake line that is constricted.

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Dole:

When you bleed the lines, there should be a consistent amount of fluid that comes out of each line (relative to the others). If one just "piddles", then you could have a pinched brake line on that wheel. That will cause the caliper to drag on the rotor, which will cause the rotor to get excessively hot, which will cause rotor warping.

After driving for a bit, stop the car, get out, go around to each wheel and feel the wheel. If any of them are hot to the touch (particularly after NOT using or lightly using the brakes), then you have a dragging caliper. The caliper can drag because it needs to be rebuilt or because the brake line is pinched. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into buying new calipers. It's easy and inexpensive to rebuild the stock ones.

I second that!!

Thread, would you think that a rim with excessive brake dust on it could also indicate a dragging pad? When I redid my fronts last month "thanks to your awesome advice!" I noticed a lot of brake dust on my front, driver's side, which was also the one that was squeling in reverse. Now after the rebuild, no brake dust what so ever on the front wheels. I actually have more dust on the rear wheels now, than the fronts... haven't serviced the rear ones yet...

n:

Thread, would you think that a rim with excessive brake dust on it could also indicate a dragging pad?

Could be, but in regard to a dragging caliper, I'd pay more attention to the amount of dust as opposed to the color. I've always understood that the black dust was from cheap (formulation) pads as opposed to high quality pads (again, formulation). I made that mistake once on an ES300 Coach Edition. I quickly broke down and replaced the "cheapies" with OEM pads because the black dust all over the Coach alloy wheels in the middle of summer. It just looked like hell.......

I would assume that generally speaking, there would tend to be more dust on the front wheels/rims and that it would be a fairly equal amount on each front wheel. If it's un-equal, then yes, there could be a dragging caliper. I would also assume that there would be an equal amount of dust on both rear wheels, but far less than that on the front(s).

I'd suggest re-building your rear calipers as soon as you can get to it. I'll bet the dust pretty much goes away once you do.

Knowing you, I'm certain you are using OEM pads all the way around (?). You might want to mention to others how you found the experience of re-building your calipers(?)............It could provide them with a lot of help/encouragement to also do it.

Cheers man...... :cheers:

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I've had warped rotors (vibration) since i purchased my new LS, about 3 months ago.

Just dont have the time to swap them out right now.

What will a set of these brembos run me?

$ 36 each for the front and, $59 each for the rears on tirerack.com .... I think I got mine on tirerack as well, by the way, I think swapping rotors is by far the easiest job on this car, it took me about 20 minutes each wheel.:cheers:

Wait.. you said a new LS? that price is actually for 1 st gen, specifically 1990

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Dole:

When you bleed the lines, there should be a consistent amount of fluid that comes out of each line (relative to the others). If one just "piddles", then you could have a pinched brake line on that wheel. That will cause the caliper to drag on the rotor, which will cause the rotor to get excessively hot, which will cause rotor warping.

After driving for a bit, stop the car, get out, go around to each wheel and feel the wheel. If any of them are hot to the touch (particularly after NOT using or lightly using the brakes), then you have a dragging caliper. The caliper can drag because it needs to be rebuilt or because the brake line is pinched. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into buying new calipers. It's easy and inexpensive to rebuild the stock ones.

Threadcutter, Would you please post the thread on how to rebuild your calipers....Thanks in advance!

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I have a 91 LS, and seemed to have bad luck with rotors. So I am begining to think I am doing something wrong. I went and had the rotors turned this morning and will reinstall latter today. What happens is, when I reinstall everything is great for about a month. Then the shaking in the front end returns when I brake lilghtly. I have rotors that I bought at NAPA and some bremble type I bought on Ebay. Happens with either set. I try to be carfull not to tight the lug nuts to tight, but very snug. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bob :chairshot:

Dole:

When you bleed the lines, there should be a consistent amount of fluid that comes out of each line (relative to the others). If one just "piddles", then you could have a pinched brake line on that wheel. That will cause the caliper to drag on the rotor, which will cause the rotor to get excessively hot, which will cause rotor warping.

After driving for a bit, stop the car, get out, go around to each wheel and feel the wheel. If any of them are hot to the touch (particularly after NOT using or lightly using the brakes), then you have a dragging caliper. The caliper can drag because it needs to be rebuilt or because the brake line is pinched. Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into buying new calipers. It's easy and inexpensive to rebuild the stock ones.

Threadcutter, Would you please post the thread on how to rebuild your calipers....Thanks in advance!

Scott:

I used this thread for a point of reference. It was very helpful in terms of offering guidance. I would however mention that it isn't even as complicated as the tutorial may seem to suggest. Personally, I found the most difficult part of the whole process to be getting each caliper disconnected and on to my bench (not real difficult :));

Caliper Rebuild

The main Web Page Link for this site is;

Lexls.com

I don't recall the gentleman's name that has put together the website and runs it, but he's the real hero in my book. There is a tremendous amount of information there with excellent photographs as well.

To answer another question in advance; I purchased the rebuild kit(s) at Autozone. The P/N for the front(s) is 071-7974, sorry, dunno what the P/N is for the rear. They'll have that though. Even though it was from Autozone, everything worked fine, decently quality, no surprises and no 40% mark up above list price like the local Lexus Stealers.

DON'T forget to install the new, little rubber caps over the bleeder valves when you're all through bleeding the calipers.

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Ooops, sorry scott, I missed this thread, and cutter's request for me to post up how I did mine. I followed the lexls site's recommendations as well. BUT, I did use one additional tool, lockable clamps, to hold back the other caliper pistons that's you're not trying to pop out with the air hose. I found that the one with the least resistance kept coming out, and I couldn't get the other's to come out because of it. So I have some craftsman lockable clamps that I use for my woodworking that worked great! You just lock in the ones that you've already done, and the one you want to come loose, will POP out...actually, SLAM out. Use the block of wood inbetween the pistons, and WATCH YOUR FINGERS! If one hit your finger, no doubt in my mind it would break it.

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On the subject of rotors. I have heard that uneven and excessive wheel torque can cause warping. Not convinced that this is true, but kind of makes sense. So I told the folks at the shop doing my tires that I wanted my tires torqued down. So they blasted them on with an impact wrench and then went around and clicked the torque wrench on them. Not a single bolt budged when they did this. Car drives fine, but now I'm wondering if I should loosen the bolts and retorque all of them to spec.

Larry

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