stroked4.6

Yep this is fuse related. I don’t know if your user manual shows but there should be a chart with the fuse box locations and fuse numbers along with their operations. Ill go on alldata for you at school and see what I get. When several devices stop working all at once its usually fuse related.

Problem Fixed!!!!!!

I put the new radiator in today with a few new sensors since this cooling system was very worn and not working properly. So much scale and rust. Well the gauge is fixed it needed a new coolant temp sensor. So I added the other temp sensor near the thermostat as well. There is also another sensor with 2 vacuum lines anyone know what this is? I also replaced the fan switch since the fans wont go on. My problem is the coolant fans still DO NOT work. I even turned the a/c on and no luck. The only way they work is if I disconnect the fan switch. I really don’t know what else to test or do with this car. Are there any Toyota techs on the board or any techs at all that could help me with this problem. The thermostat is working properly and I drove the car around a few blocks and the gauge goes to about 1/2 and didn’t go any higher. But I didn’t want to take it out any longer since the fans didn’t go on. I checked the relays and fuses quickly and they seemed good but ill double check tomorrow. My main question is why would they go on when disconnecting that switch but at no other time??? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Either cleaning the throttle body or you might have a problem with your IAC. Does your car ever stall out on you?

Im not sure which category this goes in so i figured I would post it where i post the most. Mod please put this in the right section. Im working on my bosses 93 Camry and he has a cooling system problem. He has a hole in the radiator and leaked coolant all over so he filled it up and drove it to and from work for some time. Well I looked at it yesterday and his cooling fans don’t go on either and his temp gauge doesn’t work. There is a cooling fan switch on the bottom of the radiator and if I disconnect that plug both fans go on. I'm thinking since the temp gauge isn’t working and the computer isn’t receiving a temp signal it isn’t turning the fans on. OR His fan switch is busted. Since the fans do go on when the fan switch is disconnected does that mean the switch is working? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks John

Dude the same thing happened to me about 3 months ago. I hit the racoon going about 70 mph and it cracked the bottom of the bumper and the splash shield was knocked off. Ive tried several junk yards with no luck. On mine there are two pieces to the splash shied and the part closest to the bumper cracked off. I haven’t had a track record with animals and driving so hopefully that was the last one. At least no other damage occurred. Just watch out for deer those will seriously damage your car.

The dealer could have been bull*BLEEP*ting you. I would go to autozone and get the code read yourself. Post what code came up and we could give you more help then. It could be something as simple as not securing the gas filler cap properly. Putting in a grade lower octane wont screw anything up. I’ve been putting 89 it in my car since I bought it 3 months ago and the previous owner was using regular fuel. I wouldn’t recommend regular fuel but nothing that detrimental will happen unless you go full throttle and really push the engine. Lower octane will cause pre-ignition or detination which you will be able to hear (sort of like a pinging on partial throttle and gets worse with acceleration). Unless your really pushing it you shouldn’t have a problem. Now if they put diesel fuel in your car that could possibly screw the cat up as well as plugs and some sensors but the car would run like crap and stall out. This actually happened to my sister (long story). I would trust the Midias guy in this situation. The "moving" sensor voltage are the oxygen sensors which control the a/f ration. The voltage signal is constantly changing. So i would put some 93 octane in and a fuel injector cleaner. Then get the code checked at autozone and post it online. Hopefully we will able to help.

I wouldnt spend the extra money. Seems like you got it covered. You might want to replace the fuel filter if you havent done that yet.

Well it could either be a bad distributor, wires, or spark booster. How many miles do you have on the car?

I have most of the dash apart at least all the pieces that come off (not entire dash) so I could see the starting and ending points off all the wires. My main problem is between the instrument cluster (left) and computer (right) its behind major parts I cant remove (metal brace and a/c components). Any ideas or oxygen sensor wiring diagrams i could use. Anyone know the color of the wire which goes to the back of the instrument cluster from the computer which controls the check engine light?

Well I got that 95 GS300 ECU and the car runs but that engine light is still on!!!!!!! Ive got the glove box out and many wires disconnected trying to find this problem. Im tracing wires back as far as they can go and the resistance in the wires seems fine. Im going to test for continuity next on all the wires. I spoke with my boss and he said this engine light only came on about a year ago or a little more. Im going to see what code is coming up now with this new computer. I was thinking maybe the light is grounded but no code would come up if that was the case. There has to be short or ground somewhere on this circuit its just a matter of tracing the wires back since they go throughout the dash. If anyone has any ideas please post and let me know. Thanks in advance John

You could do it yourself but itll take a lot longer. It’ll just take longer since you don’t have a lift. Ive done it in the driveway several times the most time consuming thing is to lift each side of the car. You just have to bleed each brake caliper until clean fluid comes out of the caliper. There are bleeding procedures so look it up before you bleed them. After you bleed each brake make sure to put more brake fluid in the reservoir so it doesn’t ruin dry and you have a major problem on your hands. Soak the bleeders in PB Blaster before you start so they loosen easier. If they are really rusted in there keep soaking them and you might want to try flare wrenches so you dont strip the bleeder. Make sure you us the correct brake fluid grade (Dot 3 or Dot 4)

I bought an OE Toyota O2 sensor and the light is still on. I was getting code 28 which is O2 sensor heating element. I ohmed the Denso sensor out and there was too much resistance so I figured a Toyota sensor would solve the problem. Unfortunately I have to do some more electrical testing tomorrow. I tested some of the wiring and it was good so now I have to trace a couple of the wires I couldn’t get to. I wasn’t able to get a couple pins for the ECU since the holes were too small even for paper clips so i guess Ill try some needles. I’ve got all the instructions from alldata on how to diagnose this so I guess if its not the wiring the last thing to do would buy a new ecu. I have credit to a junk yard and they have a 95 gs300 w/cali emissions so I guess that’ll be the next thing to do. Im hoping to finally be done with this car so I could start my other project. Im only a few bolts away from removing the Stangs engine!! As long as the numbers match I could drop in the new ECU (95 GS300 w/ Cali emissions) in my car with no problems right? I’ve got a 93 GS300 w/ Cali emissions. I previously installed this ECU quickly and the car started but would there be any other minor problems. The keyless entry doesn’t work anyway so im not worried about that.

I have the same question. I bought the car with this blueish tint on it and wanted to put black on. The tint is like 13 years old and it has two layers. The drivers window has two layers of film and the rear window is completely covered in bubbles and the rest of the windows began to peel. I want to put either 35 or 20% all around (except windshield) but i need to remove the old first. Anyone know how to remove old tint? Do you need to use a heat gun?

Was it bucking or making any strange noise before this happened? So its basically stuck in neutral now right? Usually when a transmission goes one gear will go out but not all gears at the same time. I think it might be torque converter related. If your torque converter is shot the car wont move. Make sure to check the shifter linkage like JPI said. But you really should service the transmission every 30K miles. If you dont the transmission/torque converter will burn out prematurely.

Wow thats a crazy amount of cash for a computer. I would just get that computer and install it myself. I think you will be able to use your keys and ignition switch. You might need to get your keyless entry reprogrammed if it runs through the computer. Maybe some one else can chime in, I know more about American cars. The !Removed! might do some weird integration of the computer. I dont want to misinform you. Could you buy the computer and just have the dealer install it? The only downfall is they wont warranty the part. Thats also alot of money for ther labor. Took me 10 minutes to remove my ECU. At least with my 93 GS300 I put a 95 GS300 ECU in and it started right up. I dont know if they are in the same location but the dealer seems to be charging you way too much unless there is more to reprogram than I could think of.

A dirty fuel filter will definitely reduce your fuel economy, it also puts more strain on your pump. You might also want to make sure your tire pressure is at the specified mark. Techron is a very good treatment, I also add that to my cars. A couple other things to mention about gas mileage is the winter. Since its been cold have you been warming your car up in the morning or keeping it at idle more? This will drastically reduce your gas mileage but you have to do it. Another thing is they add some other additives to the fuel in the winter which also decrease fuel mileage. I would change the plugs and put the NGK's in there.

Thanks SKperformance that was the problem. I disconnected the battery and waited a few minutes before I took the harness off but then forgot to do it when reattaching the harness. Thankfully that was the problem. It took a few tries but finally i cleared the codes. In case anyone else on the forum needs the site here it is:: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/airbaglight.html. Anyone have any ideas about the rear electrical problem? Thanks John

I have an electrical problem with my right rear electrical circuit. The power door lock works but the speaker and window wont work. I disconnected the wires at the door and checked for voltage there and im getting voltage at three wires with the key in the on position. I cant seem to get any voltage past that. I used a spare battery and bench tested the window motor and it works. It goes both up and down. Would anyone have a wiring diagram of the right rear window? I’ve got another problem now. I had to remove the seatbelt because I dropped something down there and re installed it. Accidently when putting it back in it hit against the floor. Then i reconnected it and the airbag light wont stop flashing. Its one of those seatbelts with the gas filled chamber. Could banging it lightly cause any damage to it? I disconnected the battery for a minute and plugged it back in and the light still flashes. If i needed a new seat belt about how much do they cost? Any help either two questions? Im really running out of patience with this car so could someone help me!!

I know this is a very old thread but I was searching for new Lexus parts and came across this thread. I wouldn’t tell anyone to order from these people. I’ve had several bad experiences with them. My sister also returned something and never received her money back and it wasn’t enough to really go after. Ive been in the store since its not too far from me and they are extremely slow and unprofessional. Don’t mean to start any fights but i personally had a few bad experiences with them and wouldn’t recommend them to anyone.

I’ve had this check engine light on since I bought the car and am trying to resolve it now. I had two codes: egr and rear o2 sensor. I replaced the egr temp senor since that resistance was crazy high and now im dealing with this rear o2 sensor. I bought a new one and the light is still on. Code 28 keeps showing. I printed all the flow charts and diagrams on alldata but am not sure about one thing. I bought a Denso specific oxygen senor but it ohms out too high. I turned the car off and waited about an hour and it was ohming out at 60.3 ohms. Today with the car very cold and 30 degrees (F) outside it ohmed out at 16 ohms. The spec should be 11.7-14.3 ohms at 69 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees celsius). Now would this keep the light on so should I buy an original Toyota oxygen sensor or do some more testing on the wires. I did some testing and was getting the correct voltage everywhere.

Most rotors are warped because of improperly installing the rims and wheel lugs. Look up the specific torque and then install the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Are you installing the lug nuts in a cross patter? If not this is why you are warping the rotors that is the number one reason for warped rotors.

Why do you want to replace the calipers? Are they frozen or sticking? If your going to replace the calipers you might as well replace the pads as well, since, everything will be off anyway. Brake pads arent expensive at all so, replacing them should be done. There should be a little view hole in the top of the caliper so you can check to see how much pad is left if you don’t want to remove the caliper. Calipers are not universal and are specific to each car. They are specific to each corner of the car as well meaning the calipers on the front right, front left, rear right, and rear left are all different. There is no such thing as a caliper cover it is just the caliper. You could paint them whatever color you want with special paint but you paint directly on the caliper itself. Price out everything online first. Do not go to a dealership for parts unless the aftermarket doesnt make them. Try out www.rockauto.com for parts. I buy parts from them all the time for my cars as well as friends cars. Never had a problem their prices are great and customer service is superior. No problem with the questions better here than buying the wrong parts or !Removed! the car up. -John

Sounds like interference from the alternator. Maybe a diode is on its way out. So as the alternator is spun quicker with the engine revving more the noise is louder. This same thing happened to a friend of mine. The electrical signal from the alternator was making its way through the stereo into the car.

Hi, Did you ever replace the trunk supports? I got a pair from ebay and now am wondering how I replace the supports without damaging the trunk liner? Can anyone give me some instructions so I can do this without incident? Thanks, E Remove the trunk liner.